no one loves me

Big lumps of metals and spanners. Including servicing and fluids.

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tooma111
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no one loves me

Post by tooma111 »

pulled the cylinder head off and the two pots are still stuck on them can i place a pieace of wood on them and hit them with a hammer ? pls

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itchyfeet
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Post by itchyfeet »

Tap them gently with a wooden mallet after applying penetrating oil overnight
heat with a blowlamp may help
did they come right off pistons?
wbx or Aircooled?
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
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CovKid
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Post by CovKid »

Aye, if Aircooled, avoid the edge of the fins - they break off easily as its cast.
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itchyfeet
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Post by itchyfeet »

Surprised there is nothing in the Wiki ( well not that I could see) about cylinder head removal and refitting...
perhaps a guide needed?
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CovKid
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Post by CovKid »

I think we may simply be replicating basic manuals then. Its part of a strip-down and that would be a long WIKI indeed plus no one would agree. Count me out for writing that one. :D
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itchyfeet
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Post by itchyfeet »

I see what you are saying but a constant stream of posts asking questions about head removal, Haynes is the only manual we have that has a description and pics, Bentley is all diagrams, no use to a fist timer.
needs some 8090 wisdom imo
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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

Mmm.. get it written by a good Aircooled/wbx member and send it to us.. we'll Wikify it !

The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call :idea

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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

?
Hehe! Thanks for all the offers :)
I'm sure there's a dashing technical author out there somewhere with a dozen flat four rebuilds behind them to muse on as their keyboard overheats from the frenzy of their typing...

The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call :idea

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Post by ghost123uk »

They are all too busy trying to keep the oil (and water) in the places it's supposed to be :lol:
Got a new van, but it's a 165bhp T4 [shock horror] Accurate LPG Station map here

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itchyfeet
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Post by itchyfeet »

Thats why you don't have an article on it, they are either too busy running a business or too experienced to remember what they ever found hard the first time.

Haynes was is good enough for me first time but lacks detail in many areas, I'm not saying re write Haynes just fill in the gaps.

some examples off the top of my head for WBX not got my haynes to hand.
do I have to take the engine out?
how do I undo head nuts to help prevent breakage of studs?
head stud breaks what now? Think this may already be covered
heads come off with barrels, what now?
cleaning up surfaces, how clean and how?
The barrels moved a bit is it ok to push them back and leave them?
ok so how do I remove barells & pistions to do the lower seals?
there is some pitting on the lower liner seals?
there is sime pitting on the head to water jacket seaks what now?
do I dirko both sides of gasket?
Surely I need to stretch pushrod tubes a bit how?
Can I dirko/grease the head stud threads?
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ghost123uk
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Post by ghost123uk »

itchyfeet wrote: The barrels moved a bit is it ok to push them back and leave them?
That's the one that I wonder about. There are well respected builders who say it's ok to just re-seat them, but on the one (head to case seal job) I did, I was glad I decided to pull the liners off. The lower seal was well shot and for sure would not have seated back successfully. It had deteriorated into a well perished toffee like non elastic goo.
Got a new van, but it's a 165bhp T4 [shock horror] Accurate LPG Station map here

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itchyfeet
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Post by itchyfeet »

I agree John but lots of people are ruining WBX because stuff like this.

I bought a second hand engine for parts, the ONLY new seal was the waterjacket and it was dry, needless to say the engine is now shot including heads as it was run on steam, OK thats extreme but lots of mistakes being made.

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/termi ... 88930.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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