They're just a tiny fraction on the high side as I need to allow a little for any slight bounce in suspension but they're where they need to be. Kick starts at the kerb, beam well below oncoming traffic.
The funny thing is, I used to have nightbreaker bulbs a few years ago and although they were nice and bright, I felt I was just compensating for badly designed headlights. Homage to Hella and all that but no matter how you view it, they're little more than a highly inaccurate 1970s torch reflector with a freznel lens to restore order. Lot of scatter on Hellas - surprising how much but then they were never that focused to begin with. Hellas also tend to have hot-spots. These are even and have a sharp cut-off point at the top as you can see. I honestly don't see how I need brighter bulbs. I may try them but I suspect its overkill.
CJH will agree with me on this but the light output is really even from bumper to near distance on dip. Full sorts itself out and you can add in spots if you want. I disconnected my spots for this experiment. Improvement applies to the E-marked ones too so don't for a minute think that my DRL ones are better. Mostly this is about letting the reflector do all the work rather than the glass and all their 7" units meet that level. Amazing really as these aren't square lights and I'm only using the pair - nothing else.
You can see now why I tend to scoff at bulbs of higher wattage - it misses the point that all the basics are completely wrong to start with. Nightbreakers make a difference if you've got dim lights but nowhere near as much as fitting better designed light units, relays and a better supply cable.
Will test the E-marked ones for you next week.
Source:
http://www.powerfuluk.com/itemlist.html ... query=7%22" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also note this, as it made the biggest difference to brightness of my lights:
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/VW ... ry_to_dash" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - do the electrics well and fit relays. Please don't go to the trouble of buying/fitting these units WITHOUT relays and a dedicated cable from battery - you'll be wasting your time if you do. To see the same lights without those mods, see:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2X5GgKDOos" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - vast difference.
Yep, I'll WIKI it all. Had hoped to video the fitting but I have a fair bit to do this weekend including driving to see Jim San tomorrow. I have I think, mostly resolved the fitting now so nothing fouls headlight grill, they fit firmly without having to make DIY clips, and they look far tidier. Will WIKI all that too.
Dipped beam:
Full beam
On full (and more visible on video), you get a clearly defined rectangular shape to the lights (almost like like a panoramic screen) which focuses on the area you most need to look at whilst still giving plenty of light on the tarmac. At first I thought I was imagining this box, but it was consistent and even more noticeable with a lot of trees ahead either side. I've never seen headlights that clearly defined before and I was really impressed by it. Full or dipped, nothing is wasted, or indeed lost - testament to the well designed reflectors. If you watch this other video, you can see this box on full beam yourself at times:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTPzOcVTefk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Headlight alignment: For reference (and by all means set them up on a wall using the 25 feet model or even let your local garage check them), below photo is where the 'kicks' should be and the cutoff points on an average flat road (along the blue line) to ensure you can see but not blind other drivers. The kick on the left is to help pick out signs etc, and should start at the kerb edge. The right kick should start at centre line of road, on the right the beam needs to be below eye level of oncoming traffic. May help anyone trying to set them up from scratch and get them right. You only have to look at height of the beams then. Headlight aligners simply get you to that point and quite a few set them too high I've found. You should NOT be lighting up the backs of drivers heads. Set them like this and they will pass alignment check.
If you're not sure what I mean by 'headlight kicks' take a look at this next pic as I go round a bend. At that distance you can see both 'kicks' clearly. On a straight road, the very start of the left kick should be at the kerb edge. I worked on bugs for many years and had no problem setting up headlights accurately by hand like this and they always passed. You can set them on a garage door to some extent but you'll only get a 'near enough' adjustment and other than putting them in front of headlight aligners, the above is perfectly true and sets them so you get a good spread of light where you need it, without inconveniencing anyone else and within the rules.
are you going a full wiki on this?
