Need electrical work doing but no DIY for me!

[Gina1989]

Hi everyone,
Brand new to site and brand new VW owner of a T25 1989 High Top Holdsworth Camper which is having issues with oil light and buzzer going off, i've read ALOT of the info on here but i'm not technically minded at all and need to ask if there is anyone out there who has the knowledge and expertise to help out (paid of course) locally who would be willing to help sort the problem for us.
She had an oil leak recently which has been fixed, her oil pressure switch has just been replaced but now the oil light and buzzer go off after 10 mins of driving her, oil pressure checked twice and it's fine, thicker oil in her too as recommended but still continues and it's driving me nuts!!!
We have already taken it to our local auto electrician who has said we need a new PCB board and possibly the one located inside which is L shaped?
I want to try every possible angel before even attempting to find things like this, please could anyone recommend anyone within a reasonable distance to us that would be able to give her a look over and maybe help out with the repair?
I've seen so many posts with extremely clever guys being able to fix their vans themselves but there's just no way we have the right skills to do this!!

postcode is TS23 2ED we are in Billingham, Teesside not far from Middlesbrough, most of the garages round here haven't got a clue about vehicles this age!!!!
Any advise greatly received

Many thanks in advance.

[Jeff J]

Any auto electrician will be able to help, vehicles this age are actually much easier to work on than new models from an electrical point of view, so look in yellow pages for a local guy.

[ninja.turtle007]

Did the buzzer go off before the oil pressure switch was replaced? Is the current oil pressure the correct one for you engine?

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... ure+switch" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Gina1989]

Hi,

No we had no buzzer and no light come on, even though she did have an oil leak, I researched thoroughly the possible causes and it did turn out to be the switch (which guy has changed) that was the cause of the oil leak, but now buzzer and light come on all the time after 5-10 mins driving, so that's why I think he's got wrong switch?

[ninja.turtle007]

If that's the case, it's very likely that the switch isn't the correct one or it's faulty.

[kevtherev]

Yep wrong switch.
Easily done there are several to choose from.
What engine is it?

BTW, Fixing it yourself requires very little skill, just confidence.
VW have been turning their owners into mechanics for 60 years.

[ajsimmo]

Easy way to test - pull the wire off the oil switch on front of engine and earth it (easiest way is on the spade terminal on the side of the dizzy, if it's there). If the buzzer no longer comes on it's the wrong (or right but faulty) switch.

[ghost123uk]

Easy way to test - pull the wire off the oil switch on front of engine and earth it (easiest way is on the spade terminal on the side of the dizzy, if it's there). If the buzzer no longer comes on it's the wrong (or right but faulty) switch.

True ^^^, but which end are you calling the "front"

[ajsimmo]

Ah good point. It's below left of the front pulley which is at the front, pointing at the back, behind the end that is rearmost but forward of it...

[ghost123uk]

It's below left of the front pulley which is at the front, pointing at the back, behind the end that is rearmost but forward of it...

Below left of the lower pulley at the back of the engine (surely it's not just me that calls that end of the engine the back ? ) Either way, that switch is a bit of a pain to get at, even to see it

[kevtherev]

What?
The buzzer switch is directly below the water pump. ('86 on)

Front and back is confusing on a rear engine, rear facing engine van

[ghost123uk]

OK, to avoid any confusion, here are two pics.

The higher pressure switch location is outlined on this pic with a red circle (Pic from http://www.benplace.com/oil_pressure_sender.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - note some of the wording on that web page is incorrect though)



Another pic of the same from 80-90 member "woodyyellow"



The lower pressure switch is hidden behind the left hand pushrod tube protection tin ware. Getting at it involves removing exhaust pipe studs/bolts which can be fraught with the danger of them shearing off

I suppose all this is academic to the O.P. as he/she is getting a mechanic to do it and most of us already know where they are

[ajsimmo]

I understood the OPs mechanic was wanting to replace the dash pcbs. He has already changed the switch (which I assume means the high pressure normally open one for DOP vehicles has been replaced with a low pressure normally closed one by mistake), so he knows where it is - just not what it is.

[ghost123uk]

^^^ good point I was getting carried away (or maybe I should be carried away )

[Gina1989]

Hi everyone,
It is the switch which is a bugger to get yo, the one where exhaust etc are in the bloody way!, mechanic has chucked old switch out so can't get part no to check exactly which one it was!
She's a petrol 1989 1.9 a Engine, rang a parts place yesterday and they said I need info on whether it's a 0. 9 bar or a 1.8 bar one I need!! A local guy says he could fit it but she's due for full service anyhow so could get them to do it during that?.... Just need right blooming switch? Anyone?