Broken down with a bang!

[Smosh]

Is it a lot of work removing the whole hub assembly? I havent a manual nearby.

A friend has a stud extractor he said to try. I have tried the sharp punch but through the lower wishbone I haven't go the angle.

[Smosh]

is it a bolted flange Gearbox side of the engine aswell? I'm thinking if its just unbolt then it may be easier to do the to give me more space to work in the wishbone; also, is oil going to pour out when I undo it?

[itchyfeet]

Driveshaft gearbox side removes same way, no oil will come out.

not done it myself but from Bentley diageam it looks like four bolts, hydraulics and handbrake cable hub comes off

[Smosh]

Cheers! I also found this helpful little video http://youtu.be/I9j4ZDc2N2A

Kinda makes me think I should take off and repack the CV's whilst im at it...

[itchyfeet]

Becareful with cvs
once boot is off they can fall appart.
putting them back together is a challenge best done with three hands, also possible to do it wrong so they are locked solid.
top tip, keep them square when boot off.

[CovKid]

Absolutely on that. Newer joints don't tend to have that problem but many a time I've had to get my greasy balls out of the grit .

[CovKid]

If your only option is to remove flange/stub, it will come out a LOT easier than it goes back. You don't have to remove anything other than castellated hub nut. A gentle clout on the end with nut wound out to protect threads will push it through and out BUT when it goes back, the spacer sleeve can drop slightly and you need someone on the outside to help hold it in position when you tap it back through from the inside. Fiddly but it can be done.

Assistant on outside advised to wear safety goggles unless they want an eye full of grease. Better to remove bolt in situ though if you possibly can. Knocking through stub really is a last restort, honest. You could try a slow electric drill (with left handed bit) in reverse to see if that will give enough purchase to wind it out.

[Smosh]

Thanks itchy, I'll keep that in mind. And to think, the guy in the video made it look so easy
Thanks Covkid, sounds like I definitely don't want to be pulling the stub through, so will try the left hand bit technique.

[CovKid]

On the refit, get yourself some good bolts Smosh (its all in the WIKI). Nowt wrong with allen bolts if thats all you have but do make sure each bolt has a friction or good star washer beneath it and tighten up really well. There is a MASSIVE amount of torque going through those axles (the amount of bolts that sheared demonstrates that), so make a good job when you put everything back. Its not a weakness as such providing bolts are tight, but its a very common occurrence if they're not.

You do usually get a warning - invariably a hard to trace clonking, before they go bang. ("There has recently been a knocking noise which were noticeable when going on and off the throttle and changing gears").

Avoid bargain ebay bolts unless you really KNOW they're up to the job. I bought some once that sheared off during tightening. VW do them at £2 something a go. I got a whole box of the 12-star high-tensile affairs direct from a bolt stockist for just a fiver (cheapest place for good bolts) but the ones in the kits they do are fine.

If you struggle to get friction washers (common) you can use ordinary ones and roughen the hell out of them in a vice with a rough file or even spring washers if you have to - something that will help those bolt heads really bite down hard and not work themselves loose.

If the joints are incredibly sloppy, and you can find the cash, consider the GKN Euro Car Part CV joint kits (now on offer) and just change them at the same time. That way you shouldn't have to deal with CV joints, possibly the dirtiest job you'll ever do, for many many years. I did just that and don't even give them a thought now. I'm heavy on my clutch but they never grumble.

[Smosh]

When you say "sloppy" on the CV joints. Is it feeling for excessive play like you feel in a bearing?

Also, going to pick up bolts from a hardware/marine parts store tomorrow hopefully; Brickwerks want £15 delivery Do they need to be high tensile or anything in particular? Are roughed up washers better then spring?

thanks,

Josh

[CovKid]

Yes absolutely high tensile. Nothing less. Up to you on CV joints - you'd need to clean and inspect one to get a true picture. Otherwise just pack them with grease and put everything back.

[itchyfeet]

I reccomend the right washers, they are serrated on both sides (safety washers)
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... rs-t3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

bolts are 12.9 high tensile, these come with washers
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... r-kit.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... -2686.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

£15 delivery on a £8 packet of bolts can't be right surely?

[Smosh]

Thanks again both.
Unfortunately, they only offer royal mail or UPS. I have questioned it, "Shipping… prices are linked directly from UPS now, and based on the individual item weights, so correct 95% of the time." It cost me £26 for two droplinks; & £26 for all my suspension (dampers, springs and bushes). It's a shame, I cant fault them otherwise.

Tonights problem is, how the hell do you get the driveshaft seperated from the diff!? I've undone the 6 bolts.

[itchyfeet]

It's just gunked on, tap it with a mallet, once off if you put a couple of tie wraps through the boot and cv the cv cant fall appart.

[CovKid]

Then paraffin time I think. Always found it was the quickest thing to clean up these areas. Gunk if you're snobby.