Propex 1600 compact

[CovKid]

No, this is where you get hold of a single hole tank and just want to use it for propex/cooking only. They do a guage for it too.

"Emer Vapour MV for Cylinder Tank 200mm 30° - no Solenoid
This multivalve has been specially designed and manufactured by Emer to allow a single-hole cylinder tank to be used as a vapour tank to run domestic appliances within a motor home or caravan.

This valve is designed to be mounted at 30° up from horizontal, in a cylinder tank."

I think their small tanks start around £49 - 15litre tank equivalent to (give or take, and if you could get one) a 7kg bottle. Probably a fiver to fill it.

[ghost123uk]

As this is a general "Propex 1600" thread I thought I would add this observation of mine:-

A few days ago I went to visit a friend who is staying at a village pub about 5 miles away. It was a very cold, freezing temperatures type of night, and it snowed. I had planned to have a few "scoops" with him and to stay over in the van (Tin-Top). At about 11pm I switched the Propex on to pre warm the van. At about 12:30pm I decided to retire for the night. I was quite surprised at how cold the van still was after 90 minutes of heating, with the stat on full blast (ie not switching off at all). It wasn't freezing cold of course, I would guess about 8 degrees C (btw, my Propex is working very well, having recently been fitted with many new parts, including the fan motor). I was fine once wrapped up in the duvet, but it set me thinking...

These Propex 1600 units take air in from inside the van, so on first switching on they are warming air that is, under those conditions, likely to be a bit below freezing point, then, as the van warms up, they are taking air in that is getting gradually warmer, and so the cycle continues, getting more efficient as the air in the van warms up.

The upshot of this is that, in very cold conditions, it takes quite a long time for 1600 Watts of heat to warm a very cold van (even longer for a Hi-Top and even longer again for a Pop-Top). I suppose some of those solver insulated window covers would help, I do have some, but had not bothered to stick them up

[CovKid]

Would agree John. I use mine every day to go to work. I leave at 7.30am. If its exceptionally cold out there I need to start it at 7.00am. If its moderately cold (or just plain damp), I can start it at 7.10am - 7.15am. If its frozen solid, (ie locks frozen) I might have to run it a 3/4 hour!

I've also noted that once my van heating really kicks in at the front (and boy can it get hot) I don't need the Propex but the temperature at the back is cold enough to prompt the Propex to stay on. As I don't have passengers in the back in the morning I'm thinking it might be prudent to mount the Propex thermostat further forward for economy as that should prompt it to go off. Very tempted in fact to dash mount it which could tie in nicely for good positioning for this great new remote control.

I added an extra note to Propex WIKI in recent days about the absolute need for an indicator for the remote. If the Propex goes through its cool-down process (ie fan only), its impossible to tell if you actually have it switched off at the remote - apart from waiting for cool-down to finish. A couple of times I found myself having to wait after parking up at work to be absolutely sure, which is a bit silly.

The other method I guess would be to start via remote, then once you get in, turn off remote and switch to manual but an indicator saves a lot of hassle.

The barmy solution would be a sensor that detects a fat ass on the driving seat which dumps remote circuit and switches to manual.

Incidentally I've seen a few in the US pipe in air for Propex from outside although why escapes me....

Another thing I discovered is that if you pick up a sachet of those Neutradol vacuum cleaner fresheners from a £1 shop, if you sling one roughly in the vicinity of (but not against) the inlet, you get a pleasant but not over-powering smell when the heating is on. Like a powered air freshener

Initially I did this to counteract the whiff of WD40 after I serviced Propex but I keep one in there constantly now and renew whenever needed as it works brilliantly.

[ghost123uk]

I've also noted that once my van heating really kicks in at the front (and boy can it get hot) I don't need the Propex but the temperature at the back is cold enough to prompt the Propex to stay on.

I just had a thought , Before I re-did the curtains and bought the (fiddly to put up) silver blinds (for the front windows only), I used to have a simple, long curtain that went across behind the seats. I ditched that to gain more space when camping (swivel seat and all that) and I now use the silver blinds on the front windows (sometimes ). if I was to put the long curtain back up, behind the seats, for "occasional" night time use, i.e. not "proper camping" the Propex would only be heating the rear at night

As I don't have passengers in the back in the morning I'm thinking it might be prudent to mount the Propex thermostat further forward for economy as that should prompt it to go off. Very tempted in fact to dash mount it which could tie in nicely for good positioning for the great new remote control.

Umm, errr, dash mount would make it harder to adjust etc when in bed Mine is mounted on the cupboard, just a bit higher than where my feet are when sleeping. I know, fit a remote control operated potentiometer to the stat unit = 5 remotes now = Propex main, Propex Temp, Radio, LED lights, Alarm We need an "all in one"

I added an extra note to Propex WIKI in recent days about the absolute need for an indicator for the remote. If the Propex goes through its cool-down process (ie fan only), its impossible to tell if you actually have it switched off at the remote - apart from waiting for cool-down to finish. A couple of times I found myself having to wait after parking up at work to be absolutely sure, which is a bit silly.

Good point

[ghost123uk]

You edited that ^^^ whilst I was replying

The other method I guess would be to start via remote, then once you get in, turn off remote and switch to manual

Which is what I do

The barmy solution would be a sensor that detects a fat ass on the driving seat which dumps remote circuit and switches to manual

Or a relay that does the same when you de-activate the alarm

incidentally I've seen a few in the US pipe in air for Propex from outside although why escapes me....

Health nuts, who needs fresh air
You could fit a (remote controled) flap to select fresh or re-cycled air
Or a Carbon Dioxide detector operated auto flap to go to "fresh air in" when the CO2 reaches a certain level

Another thing I discovered is that if you pick up a sachet of those Neutradol vacuum cleaner fresheners from a £1 shop, if you sling one roughly in the vicinity of (but not against) the inlet, you get a pleasant but not over-powering smell when the heating is on. Like a powered air freshener Initially I did this to counteract the whiff of WD40 after I serviced Propex but I keep one in there constantly now and renew whenever needed as it works brilliantly.

I like the smell of WD40 Mind you, maybe I should chuck one of those "odour eater" shoe insoles near mine air intake

[CovKid]

I'm really getting into that remote now John. Its surprising how often I use it. Dropped in to see family today (my father (81) had fallen out of his loft hatch (if thats not bad enough) and as he came down, hit his head on the bannister, knocking himself unconscious as he then plummeted down the next flight of stairs backwards. Now in trauma unit in head brace, broken ribs, damaged spine and nothing to look at at all except ceiling. Lucky to be alive I think.

Anyway, dropped in to let relatives know and used the remote ten minutes before I planned to go and everything nice and toasty (and fresh smelling ofcourse) in there. If only they designed one that could second-guess my unpredictable schedule. The timer I had has now gone. Will have to think of something else to use that for...

[Smosh]

I'm sorry to hear about your father, I wish him a speedy recovery.

I need one of those remotes (and heaters!)for leaving work. My colleague has a nice bmw with heated seats, steering wheel and apparently warms in minutes... mine is barely warm by the time I'm home!

[CovKid]

Today was a prime example Smosh. Windows completely iced up when I looked out of the window. Quick click of the remote and 30 minutes later all the ice had gone, locks defrosted and all warm in there. Everyone else sat there with engines running while they scraped the ice off.

Really I need to go refillable now so I can top up heating fuel at forecourts - pay something like £5-£8 to fill up instead of £20 for another bottle. I like Ghosts's solution but inclined to look for an underslung tank and vapour takeoff to give me extra room inside. Will suss that one over the Summer ready for next year. Just glad to have the heating to be honest. The other plus is Winter camping becomes dooable.

[fairwynds]

Wow, lots of ideas on this thread!
Replying to the OP but also to one and all....
My van runs on LPG. I have two tanks fitted to run engine. They are linked, for range. One is under the R and R bed and one is where spare wheel was. I carry a puncture spray fill thing, but tbh, not sure if that would work, never having tried one. So for trips, I carry my proper spare wheel either on my motorcycle trailer with the bike or on a quick fit frame that fits to the tow hitch. I like the earlier post re fitting it (or a merc space saver?) on the Hitop. I have had the roof reinforced, as a just in case measure, during the interior refit.
I use a Safefill LPG cylinder for my leisure side, and had it fitted behind passenger seat, along with all hard pipe upgraded to 8mm, to take the usage requirements if very appliance is on full blast at once. All works a treat. Also an advantage to run the Propex off Propane, not blue butane, due to effective operating temperatures (the cold start, not the calorifics in use, iirc butane burns hotter, but I don't notice any difference). It's ALOT cheaper to run like this.
Finally, my Propex HS2000 is fitted in the base of the cupboard to left of fridge, behind drivers seat. Vents straight into room space and requires no ducting. Simply leave door closed and it uses the vent in the door, or open door, fit the ducting and direct flow into cab (great on a frosty morning), up into the Hitop to prewarm kids sleeping bags! Or straight into my running shoes before a morning run!
OP, if you are thinking of LPG conversion for your engine at a later time, think carefully about where you put the Propex now as you don't want to have to potentially shift it to accommodate a big cylinder later on....