About to start another WBX

[itchyfeet]

The other common indicator of early and late cases is the second oil pressure switch hole, anybody know if there was an overlap with early case and second switch or late case single switch?

Also I'd be interested to see a pic of the alternator bracket rib you were talking about silverbullet?
Both my early and late spare engines look the same around the alternator area.

[Atomic]

Itchyfeet - The change to two oil switches was at the time the case/bearings changed, but early cases can be easily machined for 2nd oil switch - many re-con engines have had this done so an early case can be used in a late bus.

SilverBullet - as yours is a factory re-con and you are of course measuring everything carefully then also check the oil relief piston diameter - the gallery was often overbored to clean up scoring and an oversize piston used. Was nominally 16mm as standard, but often done to 16.5mm or sometimes 17mm. I'm sure you would make sure the same piston goes back in, but just in case you had a few other ones lying about and picked up the wrong one without knowing they were different... I bought an engine cheap once that had low oil pressure and the guy couldn't resolve and gave up - turned out that when he built it he put a new std 16mm piston in without realising it was a 16.5mm case. I got a new 16.5 piston and the pressure was perfect after that.

[itchyfeet]

Ok so one oil pressure switch should be early case but two could be either
Loving all this

seen variation on oil pressure relief springs but what is the right length?

[silverbullet]

Thanks for the valve diameter tip, I wasn't aware of that on re-work cases but I can always make oversize ones to suit.
No idea on correct spring length, I simply compared new to old. Data might be in those factory manuals that Andy posted up.

[itchyfeet]

No idea on correct spring length, I simply compared new to old.

can you measure the new one you buy please?

[silverbullet]

Thread resurrection!

Slight change of direction on this engine, I am now convinced that stroker cranks are the way forward for more efficient wbx engines.

(Subaru have increased the cranks in the latest FB engines to 86mm, compared to the last EJ's 79mm in a bid to get more efficient cylinder filling through higher piston acceleration)

So this and another crank are flying across the pond for a stroke increase and some counterweights welding on...
Not sure if this will be a budget 2.5 using my old Oetti pistons (no discernable wear) or I get some 94mm pistons made for it to give 2275 cc from the 82mm crank.

The 2.3 would only be slightly cheaper than a 2.5 (no case machining) but the thicker cylinder walls would make it more suitable for blown applications and the standard bore would make for a more compact combustion chamber (better burn, more efficient) although I do know of a 2500 turbo

More in a few weeks when the cranks return

[silverbullet]

PS I was going to source the crank work from the UK, but the figure for the welding & stroking alone would be more in Sterling than the full works in US$ plus shipping.

No contest, especially when considering the wealth of experience for this sort of work in the US...

PPS I would use modified 025 rods used in either spec. Using the 137mm VW rod (the longest possible) has benefits and there is nothing wrong with them once the oil supply and cooling is sorted.

[ermie571]

I am no longer sure that this thread is in English.....lol

[itchyfeet]

bet they don't know what a stroker is this side of the pond

[silverbullet]

I did wonder about appearing in "take it out of context" with that choice of words...

[silverbullet]

I now have a pair of 2.1 crankshafts winging their way across the Atlantic for rework to 82mm full counterweight spec.

Should have them back in about 4 weeks.

98mm liner and piston prices pending. These will be UK made & highest quality, not chinky "pooh" monkey metal. If the pistons end up being forged (good chance) then they should be good for light turbo application...if you like that sort of thing.

News when there is some more!

[silverbullet]

I have now got prices back from Omega pistons and Westwood cylinder liners.

Are you sitting comfortably?

A 2475cc kit comprising 82mm full counterweight crankshaft, Newman cam, 98mm pistons and barrels comes to a whiff under £2k. Then add crankcase machining, rod/cam clearancing & modification etc. plus a pair of new AMC heads and a proper oil cooling system:
Realistically a full build is getting to the 3.5-4k mark.

This spec should make circa 140bhp@5k & 200Nm and easily last 100,000 miles. My 2500E has done 130k with no external oil cooler!

If this sounds expensive to you, do an honest tot up of everything you need to do a subaru swap:
Engine, loom re-work, cam belt kit, bell housing, clutch fork, hybrid clutch, engine mount bar, exhaust system, reversed coolant rail, hose kit, speed sensor...

If you love your wbx but want more (and like driving into the LEZ of European cities hassle-free) drop me a line

[AdrianC]

I have now got prices back from Omega pistons and Westwood cylinder liners.

Are you sitting comfortably?

A 2475cc kit comprising 82mm full counterweight crankshaft, Newman cam, 98mm pistons and barrels comes to a whiff under £2k. Then add crankcase machining, rod/cam clearancing & modification etc. plus a pair of new AMC heads and a proper oil cooling system:
Realistically a full build is getting to the 3.5-4k mark.

How's that compare to a standard 2.1 build, with similar quality standard-spec parts?

[silverbullet]

Almost the same tbh, the extra crank work is pretty well balanced by the insane cost of a new VW cam (if you can get one)
I dont like the Heritage reprofiled Type 4 ones being sold for DJ/MV, wouldnt buy one myself.
Supply of 2.1 pistons & barrels from VW is patchy, last price was nearly a grand for a set iirc

This is my argument: you can have more wbx for similar money and no "foreign" parts if it needs repair, long term.
All the service items, hoses and exhaust are all the same and no need to shout about it, a proper street sleeper motor.

[silverbullet]

A slightly lower cost option would be to use the std 94mm bore with the 82mm crank to make a 2275cc engine, but it would still need new pistons and barrels.

The parts would be few quid less and no case machining, but that is all you'd save.