Damaged hitop roof need attention but with what ( pics)

[Sir Brixalot]

This has been here since I bought it, honest. I couldn't see quite how extensive it was and it's gone brown since. It has been treated in the past with something in the past but has started to leak(at picture 2). I've been told to used waterproof paint but would something like gelcoat be a better bet. Should I sand that gunk off or go over the top of it or even fibreglass it, Thanks a lot



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[boatbuilder]

You could sand it down well with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper and go over it with some fibreglass matting, or you could mix some P40 and P38 fillers together and slap that on and then sand the heck out of it.

[CovKid]

I'd say any life left in patching has expired. If it were me I'd crunch back to clean fibre and remould what had to go using new glass fibre. Then sand smooth and paint

[Sir Brixalot]

Good advice. Think I'll go down the fibreglass route- should I use matting or tissue and any ideas on how many layers so that I can buy enough?

[CovKid]

Matting I should think. Hard to tell how much. Perhaps work slow, building it up gradually so you have a good bond but not so high you end up needing an angle grinder just to get it all level again. With patience and suitable forming/smoothing tools you should be able to get the shape right. I just wouldn't rush it and I certainly think its worth getting back to something more solid and weave into that as best you can, rather than try to patch existing bad repairs.

Keep us posted!

[New Kentish Campers]

Lightly sand back a few inches around the bad area without busting through the gel coat and into the matting. Lay up the fibre glass and resin in small layers so you dont end up with loads of product everywhere. Leave the repair so that its just slightly low to the good fibreglass and finish with a tiny skim of filler so you blend old into new and reprime, flat and then apply your top coat of paint.
When you do the work its a good idea to mask everywhere outside the repair to avoid resin splashes on good paintwork.
Dont be tempted to just use P38 type body filler as it's pourous, only designed for cosmetic finishing and could well give micro- blistering etc to your fresh paint.
And when you sand your body filler try it at a 45 degree angle to the plane as that will help give a perfectly flat finish into the shape of the roof, or a dent, etc etc.

[Sir Brixalot]

Thanks. Are many small pieces better or large ones that cover all the damage in one go?

[Sir Brixalot]

Going to get on with this. I've got the matting and resin but I think it'll look a mess if I fibre glass it, the weave on the mesh is deeper than the actual crack. Has anyone used lap sealant, would it be up to the job?

[nicq]

You won't see it when it's rubbed down. Dig out the damage plus a little to get back to fresh fiberglass then you can ly in new glass and resin. You will regret filling it, it will crack and leak or come out.

[ELVIS]

Do you have a friendly bodyshop who could put it in their booth and dry it out as much as possible before you start glassing?

[Oldiebut goodie]

Big bag of silica gel covered with plastic and gaffer taped down will draw the moisture out if you have no other means. Hot weather is on its way which may help drying it out.

[paperhouselad]

If you get it smoothed off, would a vinyl wrap over it be an option?

[Sir Brixalot]

Cheers gents. Put patches over the damages areas and no rain got in during recent thunderstorms. Pretty it ain't but will hopefully look better with a bit more sanding. The wrap could be a good idea, have to check the price

[colinthefox]

I'll second almost everything that New Kentish Campers has said, but with one difference. Polyester resin doesn't adhere well to old surfaces, so when I did a very similar repair to my coachbuilt (PO had "canopied" it!) a few weeks ago I used mat and West system epoxy, which sticks to most things.

Method was. Grind out damage. Roughen gelcoat an inch over and all round all (even slight) damage. Fix ally sheet behind holes. Fill holes with epoxy and mat level with surface. One layer of epoxy and mat over holes and roughened area. Sand off bumps and fill over and all round.

[Sir Brixalot]

I think you're right CTF. It's on now but I've got a feeling that when when the roof flexes when I'm trying to get comfortable(kids won't sleep up there so I do!), the bond will break.