Replace Water Jacket Seal or not?

[TNovello]

I'm currently in the process of swapping my 1.9 DG WBX for a replacement of the same kind.

Before I put the replacement engine in, I'm going to replace the crankshaft oil seals, rocker cover gaskets, coolant seals/gaskets and inlet manifold gaskets. Also a full service.

I noticed when cleaning the engine some white deposit around the water jacket seals, which I assume is the start of these leaking?

It seems like a good idea to replace the water jacket seals and head gaskets, whilst the engine is out, but I'm new to all this and don't want to make anything worst. Do you think it would be worth my while in having a go at replacing these?

Would you have any advice of what to look out for and any problems I may come across? I have read some people having trouble seating the push rods correctly when refitting, is this a common problem and any good solutions?

Any advice on this process would be most grateful or just let me know I shouldn't touch this!

Thanks,

Tristan

[TNovello]

Also to add, I have read a lot about trouble with snapping cylinder head bolts. Is this something that could likely happen and anyway of a good prevention?

[kevtherev]

What year is the engine?

[kevtherev]

Lack of coolant changes (every two years) and the wrong coolant (use G12++) causes pitting in the seal mating surfaces.
In early (<85) engines the head studs were more prone to corrosion and snapping.

repair of the surfaces is either a light skim or better still using chemical metal to fill the pits before refitting the new seal.
Removal of the heads can be a lucky or unlucky expedition into the world of VW jokery when it comes to WBX engines.

if it ain't broke ... don't fix it.

[TNovello]

Thanks for getting back to me.

The replacement engine is 1984 1.9 DG WBX, but I currently have a 1988 version of this engine with the later version cooling system and exhaust, so in the process of swapping the parts over.

[TNovello]

Thanks for the advice, I was thinking it if ain't broke don't fix it, so probably just keep it as it is. I'm doing a full service which will include the G12+ coolant and all parts from brickwerks, so hopefully this will keep it running nicely for a while.

Wish I came on here before buying the engine as I would probably purchased a later engine in the first place, just wasn't aware of the differences. Oh we'll you learn as you go along.

[kevtherev]

If you have the time and the confidence however..
I would be dismantling the new engine.
It's age now tips the balance toward this.

There are plenty of folks to help with the process should it get..er..complicated

[ajsimmo]

To minimise risk of snapped studs, I use a little heat and a little hammer. Plenty of tappy tappy on each head nut, and warm it up before applying any torque. The little plumbers blowlamp with screw on gas can from B&Q is ideal. Be very careful with the ones between the cylinders, it's more often those that snap.

[TNovello]

We'll I have the time as we don't need to use the van until next year, just would be nice to get it finished before it starts getting too cold and I'm fairly confident in myself just not so much in the studs coming out! Ha ha

I will try the method wih blow lamp and tappy tappy and see if the bolts will budge and if I feel anyone of them isn't going to come loose without breaking I will just stop and leave it.

If I manage to get the heads off I will chnage the head gaskets and water jacket seal and apply dirko on the seals. Is there anything I should know about seating the cylinder heads back on so everything is sitting correctly, is there a good method for this?

Thanks again for the help.

[kevtherev]

I will try the method wih blow lamp and tappy tappy and see if the bolts will budge and if I feel anyone of them isn't going to come loose without breaking I will just stop and leave it.

.

They are not bolts, the studs will remain as you remove the head nuts.
As Andy suggested, heat.. lots of cherry red heat, and the nuts will be a breeze.

[kevtherev]

Is there anything I should know about seating the cylinder heads back on so everything is sitting correctly, is there a good method for this?

Thanks again for the help.

Use VW head sealant to seal the joint, not too liberally either, as unwanted sealant can end up blocking stuff.
The Haynes description is as good as any for method

[TNovello]

Thank for correcting me, Studs and nut rather than bolt.

Regarding the sealant, is this the one you mean?
https://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Se ... 199218.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm starting to look forward to this now with some advice, makes me feel more confident in trying, thanks!

[kevtherev]

Thank for correcting me, Studs and nut rather than bolt.

Regarding the sealant, is this the one you mean?
https://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Se ... 199218.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm starting to look forward to this now with some advice, makes me feel more confident in trying, thanks!

That stuff goes under the nuts.

here's the lot..and more!

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... -1555.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[TNovello]

Got it thanks!

I will let you know how I get on.