I have a recently acquired 1981 Aircooled T3 and whilst I was servicing it yesterday I discovered I had a sump plug that was more rounded off stump than hex head plug.
The PO had obviously made an unsuccessful effort to remove it using mole grips. I'm now left with a problem slightly different to the more usual stripped threads, unable to fit the plug; I can't get it out....
I managed to drain and change the oil by removing the strainer but that was a bit of a pig to get it to seal satisfactorily (with new gaskets) and not something I want to do every 5,000 miles. I'm also not comfortable with how that thread "feels".
I have a couple of options:
Weld a bar to the sump plug to use a handle and remove it like that but will I be able to get a strong enough weld on such a small stump and is there any danger of the very localised heat damaging or distorting the aluminium sump?
Using my trusty left handed drill bits (very, very handy for removing stuck fasteners as it tends to spin them out as it's drilling) and using progressive sizes drill out the sump plug but I'm wary of the swarf getting in the sump or not getting it centred well enough and damaging the sump threads?
Ignore it and use a pump to change the oil in future. However, I'm not so sure they get out all the old oil, foreign matter and sludge even when hot. I always change the filter when I'm changing the oil (on all my bikes and cars). Missing it out every other change doesn't seem worth it for the sake of a couple of pounds and I'm under there anyway, as well as the filter being pretty important at keeping contaminates at bay
the plug its self isn't to deep so as you said you don't really want swarf finding its way into the sump. (having said that you could always run a powerful magnet inside once you've done it and give it a good flush through with some cheap oil)
I'd go with welding but take it low & slow (by slow I mean doing just a bit at a time) so heat doesn't build up. Aluminium conducts heat much better than steel, so the heat should disperse from the area fairly quickly, please someone clarify this though
I would try drilling with the left handed drill bit as they are usually pretty good. If the drill bit trick dosen't work you stll have the option of using an EZ out.
Personally I would use the welding method as a last resort.
As long as you use lots of grease on your drill bit you shouldnt really get and swarf into the sump.
Or use an oil pump to get oil out? Never worry about stripped threads again. I got one this year and won't be crawling around under engines again, brilliant. Bri
baj25 wrote:Or use an oil pump to get oil out? Never worry about stripped threads again. I got one this year and won't be crawling around under engines again, brilliant.
What type is it?
I remember reading that they were not so good at picking up the sludge and would always leave behind more old oil than draining - how true is that?
I also have another option - after discussing this problem with an engineering friend of mine (he works on power stations and ships - dealing with similar specialist problems but on a much larger scale), he suggested that a quicker and cleaner approach is to drill a larger hole (left hand drill bit, it may save some work) and use a junior hacksaw blade to split the plug, then use a small set of mole grips or stilsons to crush the plug, it should then easily unwind. No real danger of damaging the sump threads by off centre drilling.
As I'm working from below this results in the minimum amount of swarf but if I'm worried I can just flush it by running a couple of litres of the drained old oil through the sump.
Whatever method I use it's got another 5,000 miles to wait.
T25Kenward wrote:I would try drilling with the left handed drill bit as they are usually pretty good.
I have a number of old motorcycles (although the more recent 70/80s stuff are the worst offenders for stuck fasteners) and the left handed drill bits have got me out of trouble a couple of times. Great things.
T25Kenward wrote:If the drill bit trick dosen't work you stll have the option of using an EZ out.
Whereas, EZ outs have got me into more trouble - both occasions I've used one (nearly 20 years apart) they snapped in the old fastener. Not so great.
Hang on, the strainer plate (if memory serves me right) is identical to the bug. GSF do them for £7 - for the whole thing, complete, with a new drain plug. Why mess.
Oh yes, Aircooled, should have read. Should be a round plate rather than sump plug (as original anyway). If a plate with plug has been fitted and plug is knackered, replace the lot as covkid says.
I use a pela 6000? oil pump. Worked well for me. Tip I found on piston heads is buy from a chandlers rather than automotive supplier, for some reason the same thing is cheaper from boat places. HTH, Bri
You could use a suction pump to remove the oil and never touch the sump. possible sludge build up. but give it a good run before you drain to get all the particles in suspension and I guess it should be OK.
Having never had left handed drills, e-zee outs or a welder I've always had to resort to more crude methods!
Looking at the pics of the mangled remains I'm with hacksawbob - I reckon a well tapped on imperial socket over the top might be a goer. These look like a good bet too, planning on getting a set before doing some suspension work http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-gr ... eces/96028
If that didn't work I'd cut a bit slot in it with a dremel type minidrill and get a large flat screwdriver on it.
Lastly I'd try a club hammer and cold chisel to form a small indent then attempt to drift the whole lot round.
Try the Irwin bolt grippers, they work really well. I'd be cautious whacking the sump plug with a chisel and hammer in case of damaging the sump casting.
Drill and tap (M8/10) the existing sump plug and plug it with an M8/10 cap head screw?
