G13 Coolant for T25?

[family4t25]

Hi,

I was a lurker on the external site while choosing which would be our first camper van and I appreciate all I have learnt reading since the purchase in the last few months!

Van (1986 T25 16d caravelle) has never experienced a single heating fault despite the hot summer and numerous journeys involving up to 24c and traffic. Then one of the few pipes that had not been replaced by silicon developed a leak + steam and was sorted out by a local garage.

Next long journey: over-heated, steam released from back. Found loose bolt related to water pump belt tension, although didn't seem to make much difference, but fixed anyway. Checked system under pressure: passed; check circulation: good. checked for any hydrocarbons in coolant: none; checked release valves on header tank cap: correct.

At this point confused, but topped up with the only liquid available (water) and continued holiday journey. Needless to say had to repeat the cooling/top-up process 3 times during the return journey.

My working assumption is that the garage topped up with water or did not bleed fully, hence lower boiling point / tolerance in the first episode, since then recurring episodes as coolant/water mix is further diluted with each top-up and the need for a good bleed. I estimate 6 or 7 litres of water has gone in and I have no way of knowing what coolant was originally in, so then I started to think about a fresh start.

I got myself relatively comfortable with the idea of draining/bleeding (glad it's a diesel, although still not sure quite how many connectors to remove for the drain; I'm still reading). I read the WiKi and visited VW to ask for G12+ and they said they did not have it in stock, only G13 which was the replacement. When I get home, I note this appears to contain Ethylene Glycol which the WiKi states is a no/no.

I've searched for G13 and can't find any references in the forum (maybe I missed something).

If anyone has any thoughts, myself and the kids would be very appreciative.

[Theclash]

This is the stuff you need good price too
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Saab_ ... 0dd&000397" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[California Dreamin]

Or

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Saab_ ... &0&cc5_866" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


G13 doesn't offer improved performance over G12+ it is a response by the manufacturers to more stringent environmental parameters set by legislation.....in other words 'greener' and less harmfull to the environment.

Martin

[family4t25]

Thank you both. I'll get some.

From owning several classic cars, I have learnt not to skimp on the cooling system, hence the pipes etc, but this VW offering is like liquid gold, so will either return or use in our Golf.

One question: how much does the coolant mix back into the header tank over 150+ miles? I've just checked and the liquid in the header tank is very clear and basically looks like water.

I'm wondering whether it's safe to assume the system is essentially water and therefore be less concerned about draining. i.e. over the whole drain / bleed just make sure that I get the air out and 8 litres of new coolant additive in the system? I'll use de-ionised water for any additional top-up.

[Hacksawbob]

there are two tanks header and top up, if you mean top up tank behind the number plate flap, this could easily remain unchanged if there is no demand for a refill from the system. check the header tank on the right hand side of the engine bay (with the dalek cap) for a better idea of the state of your coolant. don't remove cap if engine is hot!

[randiandipandi]

I'm sure more informed people will comment, but I'm pretty sure that mixing different coolants is a no/no - better to drain completely (make sure the heat is on to get the heater water into the system) and refill completely.

[family4t25]

Hacksawbob: I have the engine bay opened from cold this morning and the header tank with dalek cap shows the clear liquid.
Top-up tank behind numberplate also has clear liquid, and encouragingly was at the correct level between the lines.

Randiandipandi: indeed: should be a requirement to update a label in the engine bay or something similar! All heaters etc were full on for the 250 mile trip back from Devon and will keep them open for any drain / bleed.

[family4t25]

California Dreamin: Thanks for your help. I spoke with the garage and they 'always' use the red coolant you indicated, although also admitted that it really was water in the header tank. One of their guys helped me bleed & top-up this morning, while he was doing something else. A lot of air removed and over 3 litres of coolant in. Still isn't pink enough but gets me back up on the road in the short time I had.

I can go back when the garage boss is in to have a conversation about a possible complete flush and bleed, but I was also wondering whether you have any experience with these: Vee Gee CTX2 Handheld Refractometer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vee-Gee-Scien ... 485b18a3c1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[fairwynds]

I read the WiKi and visited VW to ask for G12+ and they said they did not have it in stock, only G13 which was the replacement. When I get home, I note this appears to contain Ethylene Glycol which the WiKi states is a no/no.

I've searched for G13 and can't find any references in the forum....

So....we can't out G13 in water boxers? Anyone?

[family4t25]

I'm not qualified to absolutely confirm the specific question regarding G13, but I do need to clarify my original post, my mistake, I've learnt a lot over the last 3 days:

As I understand it. Presence of Ethylene Glycol is not the issue itself, many coolants are EG based as are the ones suggested above. I see many posts stating that we should be looking for those that use latest OAT additives to protect against corrosion. Most importantly never mix the old and new additive types, which may make it easier for some people to stick to what they already have in unless they have a reason for and confidence in a complete flush.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... l#p7815242" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ded_brands" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

To add to what CaliforniaDreamin said above, I read some more: the G13 release seems to relate to the environmental legislation in europe and is actually related to the manufacturing of the coolant, not the finished product, which I understand is interchangeable with G12+. On this thread, I found a compatibility chart: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=377135" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'll be honest, I read so much over the weekend on the internet, I was originally left thoroughly confused and the helpful chap in VW didn't seem to know anything about 'commercials' or older vehicles. After my experience, this forum does seem to be most helpful and I'll keep quiet now and let the experts talk; I hope the above is correct!

[shepster]

Thought G12/13 was only important on WBX's due to head bolts, yours is Diesel!

[R0B]

^^^WHS^^^

[California Dreamin]

The head bolt thing makes using G12/G12+ particularly important on wasserboxers ...true...however, that doesn't mean to say diesel engined T25's don't need good quality antifreeze as well.

Martin

[CovKid]

and/or good quality owners.

Get to the chopper....

[Kombi Bohemia]

So Looks like for the VW T3 1.6TD Engine the preferred Coolant is G12+ but if you can't find it then G13 is the next best thing?
Sound like the general conclusion in a nutshell?