I have done the pipes without removing the pulley (its not the flywheel) but its much easier to remove it, just need a short socket as its close to the tinware, i cut one down.
clutch slave is just akward to get to but not actually hard
i have a tip to getting the rear bolt back in, use a thin plastic sheet over the bolt to hold it then add the nut, easiest way i have found, pic coming
itchyfeet wrote:I have done the pipes without removing the pulley (its not the flywheel) but its much easier to remove it, just need a short socket as its close to the tinware, i cut one down.
clutch slave is just akward to get to but not actually hard
i have a tip to getting the rear bolt back in, use a thin plastic sheet over the bolt to hold it then add the nut, easiest way i have found, pic coming
Thanks. Do you need to drain the coolant out first? If I do remove the pulley, is that difficult to put back?
Pully is easy, you do need to release the alternator tension and remove belt, 60Nm on the bolt
you will loose some coolant yes , place a bowl under and catch it if you plan to reuse, you dont need to drain but you will have a few litres to put back
itchyfeet wrote:Pully is easy, you do need to release the alternator tension and remove belt, 60Nm on the bolt
you will loose some coolant yes , place a bowl under and catch it if you plan to reuse, you dont need to drain but you will have a few litres to put back
Thanks. The studs that the flange attaches to are in the engine? So if they snap I'm in trouble?
Water pipe..
Yes.. the bolts go into the engine on the right side and will be a pain if they snap.. the left side bolts into the water pump.. so if these snap, you can at least remove the water pump to attack them..
if they come out.. use some new bolts and put copperslip on the threads..
I would STRONGLY recommend you remove fanbelt and check to see how much play is in waterpump before you start pulling this coolant pipe out. If its worn, its only a matter of time before it will give up the ghost - which isn't fun out on the road.
This pipe is covered here: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... overhaul_3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; including how to tackle stubborn nuts/bolts. And yes, remove pulley wheel - its a fight otherwise. That is covered too. Unfortunately the cooling system is a bit like brakes, with one replacement part often requiring others too. If you're lucky, its just the one pipe but if cooling system has had no work in living memory, prepare for additional work.
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toomanytoys wrote:Water pipe..
Yes.. the bolts go into the engine on the right side and will be a pain if they snap.. the left side bolts into the water pump.. so if these snap, you can at least remove the water pump to attack them..
if they come out.. use some new bolts and put copperslip on the threads..
CovKid wrote:I would STRONGLY recommend you remove fanbelt and check to see how much play is in waterpump before you start pulling this coolant pipe out. If its worn, its only a matter of time before it will give up the ghost - which isn't fun out on the road.
This pipe is covered here: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... overhaul_3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; including how to tackle stubborn nuts/bolts. And yes, remove pulley wheel - its a fight otherwise. That is covered too. Unfortunately the cooling system is a bit like brakes, with one replacement part often requiring others too. If you're lucky, its just the one pipe but if cooling system has had no work in living memory, prepare for additional work.
Uh-oh. I replaced the easy one to the right of the pipes I took a photo of but am starting to think this might be beyond me.
Thanks. Did you just replace those when you did yours, or the whole lot (the ones that run to the front/radiator etc)?
My front to back are origional but the metal pipes you describe have been replaced by me along with quite a bit of the cooling system over the last 8 years.
if you are asking its probably within your capability, just go for it you have the forum for support if anything goes wrong.
ticket2ride wrote:
My front to back are origional but the metal pipes you describe have been replaced by me along with quite a bit of the cooling system over the last 8 years.
if you are asking its probably within your capability, just go for it you have the forum for support if anything goes wrong.
Thanks for the encouragement itchy. I will attempt it myself because it sounds doable, assuming no broken bolts. I'm going to get a garage to do a compression test first though.
The van has an intermittent cutting out issue. I understand this could be various things (air leak, carb/fuel line blockage, spark plugs, lack of compression, electrical). Most of the above seem fixable but I don't want to throw money at the van if the engine is knackered.