Need advice from the forum sages

[silverbullet]

Dimple on the pulley is the timing mark, I would expect it to line up with a V notch in the timing cover backplate at 12 oclock. You really need a Haynes for the donor vehicle to be sure.

[itchyfeet]

Good news you have found dizzy is out but remember this is just putting it back to how it was before you removed the leads and forgot where they came from.

maybe it will start but if not id be going back and chucking some fuel down the carb, fuel was the origional suspect as you has a blocked pipe, that may also have blocked something else down the line.

[MarrV]

it'll be a casting line or mating face.

on the "normal" engines for this van the timing mark is a cast line created when the head was cast.

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index. ... &chapter=5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

TY explains it perfectly so even a backwards fool like me understands it

[MarrV]

Good news you have found dizzy is out but remember this is just putting it back to how it was before you removed the leads and forgot where they came from.

maybe it will start but if not id be going back and chucking some fuel down the carb, fuel was the origional suspect as you has a blocked pipe, that may also have blocked something else down the line.

Got back @ 10pm so will try tomorrow in the light, but was thinking along same lines. Also will check spark plugs if she doesnt fire to see if they are wet/dry as you suggested above

[mrhutch]

can I claim my prize yet?

[itchyfeet]

i mean the leads are different in re photos so his can be changed

of course the golf pic could be wrong or your dizzy could be in wrong but probably ok

[ghost123uk]

The prize giving can only take place after the engine is running again silly !

Anyway, it was me who got Marrv to re-check this after my "thumb in number one plug hole TDC" post

Won't we ALL be happy when Marrv posts back to say it's running

[itchyfeet]

Won't we ALL be happy when Marrv posts back to say it's running

nah this is all about the glory of solving the problem and the prize

[MarrV]

Also depends on what your poison is & when it can be delivered. Only 2 or so hours to wait

[MarrV]

Well. thank you. It has started & idles ok

But as im a perfectionist I am going to say this;

The cam sprocket timing mark is about 150 degrees out. Judging from the links and help you guys have given me this is bad. Have triple checked TDC on fly, and checking compression on no#1 & confirming with dizzy cap. The timing mark is well off on the sprocket.

But it runs

So is this an issue waiting to bite us in the ass?

Now just need your orders on your poison

Am sure the will be more issues (like moving the coil to a cooler place, finding out why we have wires that are not attached to anything, finding this god-dam oil leak (which i forgot about til Katie reminded me), fixing the oil temp indicator and a few others)

But first

THANK YOU ALL

Especially those who given loads of time to help;
itchyfeet
Ghost123uk
Kevtherev
and all the others who contributed (for some reason those three names stick in my head a lot)

[Smosh]

i think this has been one of the more entertaining threads .
I read through it from the start this morning, You've done well to persist and get it running yourself. It would have been very easy to ditch out and get a mechanic in! So well done to those who gave you advice, but well done for getting stuck in and seeing it through!

[MarrV]

However;.....

When she (Katie) put her in neutral & took foot off clutch she died. Now wont start at all. I am thinking dead battery (our trickle charger registers somewhere between 25-50% charged). For it to go from full charge to dead in two starts likely knackered battery, but could it be shorting? Also the neutral wire on the alternator is looking dodgy - could this be stopping the alternator charging the battery up?

[ghost123uk]

Well. thank you. It has started & idles ok

Brilliant

But as im a perfectionist I am going to say this;

The cam sprocket timing mark is about 150 degrees out. Judging from the links and help you guys have given me this is bad. Have triple checked TDC on fly, and checking compression on no#1 & confirming with dizzy cap. The timing mark is well off on the sprocket. So is this an issue waiting to bite us in the ass?

I would say not. The reason is, and I note you say the " the mark is out about 150 degrees", note the word "mark". If the cam sprocket was actually out that far, the engine would not run at all, ever, plus the valves would likely collide with the pistons = pretty serious ! I am thinking there may be another mark, or, err, ummm, what else could cause this ?

Things to do now =

Have a nice cup of tea and pat you, and all of us on the back

Then,

Have you moved the dizzy in it's mounting during all this? If so, check the ignition timing.

Check, as per the Haynes (or no doubt on YouTube etc) your cam timing, but (as you said earlier) check only, don't move it !

Then find out when the cam belt was last changed ? It is a service item, every 40K it (AND the tensioner !) should be changed. Not expensive and quite easy, but may be a job for an experienced VW in line four man there are plenty around as this engine is so common (Golf/Scirocco/Passat/Jetta etc)

[ghost123uk]

However;.....

When she (Katie) put her in neutral & took foot off clutch she died. Now wont start at all. I am thinking dead battery (our trickle charger registers somewhere between 25-50% charged). For it to go from full charge to dead in two starts likely knackered battery, but could it be shorting? Also the neutral wire on the alternator is looking dodgy - could this be stopping the alternator charging the battery up?

Likely a duff battery what with all the cranking and flattening it's been doing of late ! Have a break, you know you have it sussed now. Leave the battery on charge over night at least.

The alternator doesn't have a neutral wire. It earth's through the case and has a thick, red, positive feed that goes first to the solenoid, then up to the +ve on the battery. btw, it takes a few hours of driving to put any decent charge into a flat(ish) battery.

[MarrV]

The alternator doesn't have a neutral wire. It earth's through the case and has a thick, red, positive feed that goes first to the solenoid, then up to the +ve on the battery. btw, it takes a few hours of driving to put any decent charge into a flat(ish) battery.

The is a wire running off it from the back (counter clockwise if looking at it from the back) to the -ve terminal on the battery. This shouldn't be there? Can provide nice HD pics if needed as always.

The tensioner looks new (shiney as hell) as does the timing belt. Think the previous owner did it.

I have only removed the dizzy cap to look at the rotor arm, the rotor arm has not been moved other than via the moving of the crankshaft. If you mean "in its mounting" to be pulling it out & moving it, then no.

To check the ignition timing would need a timing light? Will have to purchase one eventually (most likely)

Will get (the right one this time) Haynes manual for the engine to ensure I get things right.

Oh, and just in case its not clear - I intend to learn everything possible about this engine as we hope to eventually travel across Europe with it!