Pierburg 2e3 problems

[joyful]

One thing at a time.
Let's take a methodical approach.
You are going to have to remove and clean things..to do that you have to dismantle stuff.
Sounds daunting?
Well if you think EVERYTHING has to be dismantled then you're wrong...and no settings will be disturbed

find a clean place to work.
undo three screws that hold the carb together. (top from bottom)
Split the carb
clean the floatbowl out.
Clean the brass jets in the top part
Ideally with compressed air. or a long stiff bristle
reassemble with a new gasket (comes in the brickwerks kit).
test.

this picture shows all the components...ignore the ones by themselves.
you need to remove No.1 from No. 23 that is all and nothing else is removed or dismantled
once the top is removed you will see the jets underneath it

Thank you for the reassurance kev.

In your first carb check as above, just taking off the top, can the idle/pilot jet get cleaned?

On inspection this evening I can feel that the hose from the inlet housing (28) which gets wider and goes into the engine manifold below, has an area I can feel underneath that is thinner and part worn. This might be leaking and I can test with the carb cleaner spray test. I also can't find the name of this hose anywhere in the manual in case I need to order one (and can't find it in the Brickwerks online catalogue).

The exhaust is very black and sooty in the pipe, and so I presume the engine has been overfuelled. So a general clean up of the carburettor might help as well.

[kevtherev]

Thats a coolant hose from (28)
It heats the autochoke
Exhausts are allways black and sooty and is no reflection on the air/fuel mixture

[joyful]

Thats a coolant hose from (28)
It heats the autochoke
Exhausts are allways black and sooty and is no reflection on the air/fuel mixture

Maybe it is not from 28. It gets very fat in the middle and then ends up down in the engine manifold below the carb. So that hose has nothing to do with the possibility of airleaks into the carb. (The auto choke seems to work ok - so I guess it is getting some heat)

[joyful]

One step forward and then back again, the joys of t25.

Trying to follow the one step at a time as kev has suggested.

1) Rechecked the vacuum hoses. Possible perforation of the bend in the dizzy (?) connection pipe at dizzy end. Refixed with new hose.

2) Then removed top and sprayed in Wynn's carb cleaner down all the available holes.

3) Refixed top and then when warmed up sprayed Wynns around all the vaccuum connections and base off carb to see if there was a change in engine note - none.

Result, engine stopped cutting out on tickover and was running ok. Problem, changed two things!! was it the dizzy hose or the carb cleaner that diid the trick.

Anyway relieved that running again without cutting out all the time on tickover.

Then.... three days later, this morning. Started normally, driving along and started to feel a bit rough after half a mile. Heading up a small hill and the engine won't take any throttle and cuts out =. Hazards on, stop in the traffic. Start up, OK, tick over ok, then as soon as open throttle no power. Repeat five or six times.

Thinking that it is something with the fuel supply, but what?

Open up the engine, nothing obvious, take of the carb top, spray in Wynns again. Redo the top. Engine runs ok, drive 300 yards up the hill, then same thing again. No power when you push down the thottle, ticks over ok.

Open up again take off the top, spray in Wynns. And drive off and all running clear and OK !!

So where have I got to. Reading Kevs notes here and elsewhere, thinking that it is possibly bits in the fuel blocking the jets.

Action:

1) Have just ordered a magnet to attach the outside of the fuel tank. If there are rust flakes, then this might help. Presumably fix magnets to the bottom of the tank avoiding the outlet pipe area?

2) Try and clear the filter as the fuel pipe goes into the carb. The long thin cone one which you pull out with a self tapping screw.

3) Clean the inline filter between the tank and carb.

Any other ideas?

[joyful]

Action:

1) Have just ordered a magnet to attach the outside of the fuel tank. If there are rust flakes, then this might help. Presumably fix magnets to the bottom of the tank avoiding the outlet pipe area?

2) Try and clear the filter as the fuel pipe goes into the carb. The long thin cone one which you pull out with a self tapping screw.

3) Clean the inline filter between the tank and carb.

Any other ideas?

Just inspected the cone filter in the carb and it is very clean, no debris, and also seems very very fine perforations, so can't really believe and flakes of rust are getting past it to block the jets. How small do the bits from the fuel tank have to be to cause problems, the gauze filter seems very fine?

[kevtherev]

one may get through but if several get in they build up.
You would be amazed what turns up in a floatbowl
Good news about no debris.

Can you see now why you are doing this?
By removing debris from the equation you can eliminate a whole raft of related issues

Old fuel lines rot and dump vast quantities of carbonised crud into the fuel supply.

[joyful]

one may get through but if several get in they build up.
You would be amazed what turns up in a floatbowl
Good news about no debris.

Can you see now why you are doing this?
By removing debris from the equation you can eliminate a whole raft of related issues

Old fuel lines rot and dump vast quantities of carbonised crud into the fuel supply.

Yes, I can see need to eliminate possible problems one by one.

As it seem that spraying carb cleaner with the lid off cures the problem, albeit temporarily for a day or two, maybe even longer!

I think that opening the top half and inspecting the float chamber is next. Need to order the middle gasket first.

[joyful]

Still struggling to understand what is happening. Carb kit nit arrived yet.

Last night driving along ok for 30 minutes, then engine stops wanting to rev, and then cuts out. Starts again ok and tick over ok, throttle down and cuts out. Rather than opening up and squirting on the carb cleaner, persisted two or three times with starting and trying revs when stationary. Third attempt, starts, revs ok and drives off.

Cone filter is clean, so probably not flakes from the tank. But would appear to be fuel starvation (or could it be flooding?) . Anyway strange how it comes on, loss of power, and then clears again eventually with some revs.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

[kevtherev]

Ok.. fuel delivery
Remove the king lead from the coil to prevent starting
Remove the fuel inlet pipe from the carb.
get a suitable jug
Point the pipe into the jug
get an assistant to turn the engine over
You should see good strong healthy squirts of fuel into the jug.

Poor fuel delivery?
Remove the pump and pushrod
Measure the pushrod
Less than 100mm?
Replace

[joyful]

Ok.. fuel delivery
Remove the king lead from the coil to prevent starting
Remove the fuel inlet pipe from the carb.
get a suitable jug
Point the pipe into the jug
get an assistant to turn the engine over
You should see good strong healthy squirts of fuel into the jug.

Poor fuel delivery?
Remove the pump and pushrod
Measure the pushrod
Less than 100mm?
Replace

Thanks again for your help. I will try the fuel pump test. If necessary will the fuel pump lift off easily to check the pushrod?

I think in my relentless search for answers I found one old thread where the chap sorted out his running problem by fitting a new fuel tank after changing just about everything else !! Could it be that there is crud in the tank that occasionally blocks the tank outlet but never gets as far as the filters?

I have a new inline fuel filter coming in the morning (the small plastic tube shape one close to the tank) and will try that as well, but possibly not the issue.

[joyful]

I have recieved carb refurb kit from Gower & Lee.

Also asked for an inline fuel filter. They have sent a generic one. Less slimline than the one currently fitted (which is like a tube with one rounded end), It is bigger and barrel shape 40mm diameter, 60mm long. Any reason why i should not fit it?

[kevtherev]

nope

[Shotage]

I know this is a really old thread, but here goes...

Just sitting in my van now, reading this thread. I have a very similar problem to you, loss of power and stalling, but tick over doesn't seem so bad, it's more when you try to go anywhere! Also on one occasion we had some backfiring.

My father-in-law is a retired mechanic and has also previously owned a T25, result!
Just waiting for him now and we are going to take off the carb and give it a clean. We're going this route as my father-in-law had the exact same issue with his and this fixed it. I really hope it does as the sun is shining!

You talk of a list of things to work through, is that list still available?

Many thanks,
Andy

[Shotage]

So we took the carb apart and did find a little bit of scum in the float chamber, but nothing too bad. We cleaned out the jets and one of them was definitely partially blocked. Also we noticed that on the left hand side of the carb (as you look from the back) there is a lever that moves when you accelerate, well there was a little bit of play/gap there before it connected, so we adjusted that. Only problem then was getting it to idle, hadn't had a problem with this before but we adjusted that and now seems to be good. However, early days and I realise that these sorts of issues may come back. But for now I'm a very happy bunny!

[ScienceBoy]

Joy ful, did you ever sort out your issue?