The SA 2.6i Microbus thread

[Wychall]

I reckon that the aforementioned scrapper has spent a lot of time in a sea water environment as the rot is general around the bottom 6 inches or so. Both rear chassis legs are fubar, as are the sills, and the front wheel boxes.








As to the air intake number, which bit of the air intake are you meaning? I can then strip mine off and see if there is any identification on it.

Finally, I was being serious abot the 10v Turbo, so if you hear from any of your contacts about a suitable supply, then please let me know.

[silverbullet]

Bloody hell that is grim! Ok Brian, I will pm you about the guy I got my spares from on S2 forum.

Re: air intake, looking though the quarter vent grille, I can read the 22S... number on the 2.6 part. Just wondered if these parts are different for the very early for 2.5 or if they all the same.

I found a 2.5 engine bay pic on t'web, looks like the filter box will squeeze in as the header tank and hose arrangement is the same, but my PAS reservoir is right infront of them on the offside. It'll be snug...

I want to get all the intake plumbing sorted (including installing a BLOS) before I look at the mechanical stuff, which is just lego apart from needing a new downpipe. Unless I decide to go for a fresh system

PS tailgate now getting desperate, rot breaking out all around the window seal. Recycled SA steel

[Wychall]

This is a pic through the quarter vent grill. The air intake seems to be tucked behind the body ventilation extract thingy (don't think that is the technical name).



Let me know if you want me to dig further.

[silverbullet]

Thanks Brian, I think that explains enough, in as much as the top part is mounted differently to the small window buses.

Might have a look at trial fitting the filter box in a bit...

[silverbullet]

So... I'm guessing that 2.5's don't have an auxilliary water pump or it's in a different place? Damned thing! Looks like I will have to turn it 90 degrees so it will be laying flat, under the 2.5 filter box. Tha PAS reservoir bracket may have to be cut'n'shut too, just to move it over an inch or so, but it's still 2 more cutting and welding jobs and the plant is at work... at least the bracket seems to clear the coolant pipes ok.

It should sit about 30mm further back with the rear end bolted to one engine mount:


Any of this familiar to 2.5i owners?


Aux. pump sits bracket also shares one engine mount and it's own spigot on the engine bar:


The filter box gives the option (with a bit of trimming/leaving one clip off) to have the MAF facing either way:


As you can see, some of it's familar, some is SA home-grown:

[Wychall]

The auxillary water pump is just visible under the K-Jet pipes. Power steering reservoir is in my garage but should be bottom left corner.

[silverbullet]

Ta Brian, I see it. That's what the four holes are for in the bracket, I was going to put the vapouriser on that, might be enough space. Hmmm... what's that wire crossing the hatch seal? It could (should?) be routed through the firewall via a spare seatbelt anchor hole!

And then there's the tailgate rust. I taped this over to hide my shame at Hockenheim and completely forgot about it until the rainwater started pouring out every time I opened the back...
The bugger is that the frame appears to be fine, it's the skin that's going from the inside out









Thankfully I do have a late tailgate that's pretty good, in fact it's the frame corners that have let go not the skin! But of course the pressing around the lock barrel isn't the same on German panels...

Repair the original or re-work the spare? I dunno but anything's better than a damp van in the winter!

[Wychall]

Eagle Eyed Ian strikes again! That wire crossing the seal is the 'temporary' wire linking my multimeter to the lambda probe whilst I set up the lpg. Not used it for over a year yet it is still there .

As to your tailgate, mine has been replace with a "common or garden" variety but no-one notices. Or sweet talk Neville as the tailgate on the scrapper looked quite good.

[silverbullet]

I know that Charlie is eyeing up that tailgate but given the way they rust, I may just go for better quality German steel and have the centre tickled by the tame panel beater, might even delete the centre badge like the pre-1990 SA's

[Wychall]

Delete like this?



I believe Charlie has declined the body as he is possibly ditching his bus. Certainly got another project in hand.

[silverbullet]

That's the one! Early pattern, better quality steel! My 1990 small-window SA has an original no-badge tailgate, which I had restored at great expense...another one awaiting paint! I thought that the badge was introduced post-1991 since it's a T4 part, along with the adjustable height front seatbelts

They do look better without the badge IMHO

[silverbullet]

Took the transmission out this morning, off to Aidan next week so it will be all fresh for our Euro road trip.
4 hours from stepping out the front door to it being on the floor. Unfamiliarity played a part, but also had a bit of bother with the two M10 engine nose mount bolts, which have to be removed so that the engine can be angled forward as per usual...

Bollox. Now I have got to lift/drop the engine to drill them out
I don't know what this means, but it certainly isn't the meaning of life:

And its got a Luk clutch fitted but there is no sign of it ever having been changed. Going to whip it off and see just how thin the friction disc has become after ~155k...

[silverbullet]

A few pics of the filter change and conversion to BLOS lpg carb before the engine comes out.
The venturi and steel pipe connecting snorkel to filter unit:
The damaged Donaldson filter unit:

[silverbullet]

Mock-up of Rover SD1 3500 Vitesse filter housing and BLOS. Hoses were shortened and tappings put into the BLOS for idle gas/air and crankcase ventilation. The filter can has been "reversed" to make the clips accessable for filter changes.


Behind the rear light. Intake trumpet shortened to match up to snorkel pipe (waiting for 63mm hose to arrive)


View from above. Just the gas feed hoses etc. to connect to the BLOS and the elbow joiner needs the side boss TIG welding on (carries the air temp sensor)

Lots more free air space amd the filter can be easily withdrawn from above, unlike the original

[silverbullet]

PS I might well re-use/mod the Donaldson heatsheild to protect the BLOS from the exhaust heat and at least try to follow COP 11 best practice