I'll need to get a new grinder. Mine is massive and the old man's is knackered. Then I'll be able to clean out all the rust and see exactly what the damage is.
One thing I'm worried about is if I cut off a strip the full length of the van, will the panel be a bit flappy? In other words is it better cutting and patching it a couple of feet at a time in order to maintain the correct shape?
I think it's going to need a 3-4 inch strip cut out the entire length on both sides.
Unless your good at cutting dead straight then i'd do it longish sections
It will go flimsy as its just the tin top (not the structural stuff) but as mm said its going to be hidden by your hightop (if you're kepping it?) so its not got to be spot on just nice and solid
Yep, the plan is to tidy up the top and stick it back on with PU. Looked like it had been resealed at some point with silicone which would have only made things worse...
then I'd just go for it didn't find any writing on the inside of the roof? mine had some, had been put on in Oct 1992 so it did well sort of yours looks like a dream compared to what i've just done
As said, it'll be hidden under the high top. As long as it's solid, it'll be a good place to practice before I move onto the foot steps and rear arches.
It reminds me why I haven't gone from a tintop to a plastic roof though. Its nice for extra room and being able to stand up, but nearly all of them seem to suffer from this eventually. Unless theres a way for condensation and or any rain that gets in, to get out, rust and rot is inevitable. I think I'll stick to expanding sideways - a bit like me in fact.
As said though, as it can't be seen you may as well get stuck in and sort it. Shame though.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
CovKid wrote:It reminds me why I haven't gone from a tintop to a plastic roof though. Its nice for extra room and being able to stand up, but nearly all of them seem to suffer from this eventually. Unless theres a way for condensation and or any rain that gets in, to get out, rust and rot is inevitable. I think I'll stick to expanding sideways - a bit like me in fact.
As said though, as it can't be seen you may as well get stuck in and sort it. Shame though.
It'll give me some practice before I weld the foot plates and rear panels. I'm in 2 minds whether to get a couple of rattle cans made up or whether to go down the rustoleum and roller route. Your guide looks really impressive, but i'm trying to weigh up whether or not the rattle cans will give a good enough match to blend or not, given the age of the paint on the van. When it's all polished up, I quite like the marsala red!
CovKid wrote:nearly all of them seem to suffer from this eventually. Unless theres a way for condensation and or any rain that gets in, to get out, rust and rot is inevitable.
Do Factory fitted hightops tend to fair any better ?
2.5 Quad Cam Scooby engine . Westfalia California 1989
I think they all suffer from the problem to a worse or lesser degree. Roof needs venting all the time. You only need to come back from a wet weekend with damp jumpers for the process to start. Steamed up windows give you some idea of whats going on up top. I think you'd need a double-skinned roof to eliminate it. After all, once its sealed tight all round, where can the moisture go.
Conversely, if you don't have a perfect seal, driving rain can force itself in and then travel to a part that IS sealed. Keeping it dry up top is crucial. I know at least one Westy owner that puts a greenhouse heater in his van in between cold/wet weather jaunts to make sure its all dry. A dehumidifier would also be a good thing to put in there now and again (say once a month or after you've been away in damp weather) to dry it all out. I do that even in the tintop.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.