WBX Oil leak

[mig]

1982 1.9 WBX(so no BOD) Low oil pressure warning light came on at the dash last week.
Checked oil pressure with a cheap gauge from e-bay- o bar!
Replaced the spring in the oil pressure relief valve
Pressures looks OK at 2 bar cold idle and 5 bar 3k rpm cold, 1 bar hot idle and 3 bar 3k rpm hot
That was an easy fix I thought.
Yesterday engine oil starts pouring out of the bell housing only when running,stops a minute or so after the engine is turned off.
I am guessing the crank oil seal,do they usually fail so suddenly? Could it be something else? Is it worth replacing both(front and rear) while the engine is out?
Any tips gratefully received
Thanks

[300CE]

Hi mig, your diagnosis certainly sounds like the crankshaft oil seal (oil usually ends up on the back door if out on a run) and it maybe worth checking for endfloat as this is what caused mine to fail. Fingers crossed it isn't this and i'm sure they'll be others along with what else it could possibly be.

[Bulldog1]

Definitely sounds like the crankshaft oil seal.
I replaced mine last week and due to advice by others changed the spiggot bearing, gearbox input shaft oil seal and starter bush at the same time.

It took me about 6 hours in total but I'd recently changed the drive shaft bolts that were a bugger to get out last time.

It's now running fine, with no issues. ( for now)

Good luck. Are you going to do the work yourself?

[mig]

Definitely sounds like the crankshaft oil seal.
I replaced mine last week and due to advice by others changed the spiggot bearing, gearbox input shaft oil seal and starter bush at the same time.

It took me about 6 hours in total but I'd recently changed the drive shaft bolts that were a bugger to get out last time.

It's now running fine, with no issues. ( for now)

Good luck. Are you going to do the work yourself?

Thanks,I'll change that little lot as well.I was thinking of taking the engine out to do it so I can get the very rusty exhaust bolts out at the same time.
The exhaust was rusty when we got the van 5 years ago and hasn't got any better since I don't think it will last another year .
I will be doing it,I (usually) enjoy working on the van and can't afford London garage prices-6 hours would cost more than we paid for the van.

Hi mig, your diagnosis certainly sounds like the crankshaft oil seal (oil usually ends up on the back door if out on a run) and it maybe worth checking for endfloat as this is what caused mine to fail. Fingers crossed it isn't this and i'm sure they'll be others along with what else it could possibly be.

Maybe it isn't as sudden as I thought,there has always been spots of oil on the tailgate after a long run,didn't think it would be coming from the flywheel end of the engine,just thought it was because it is 32 years old
I am a little worried the flywheel may be badly scored,I guess I'll find out soon enough.Also hoping there won't be excessive end float.

Anyone think of any disadvantage to taking the engine out to do it?

[CovKid]

You could in theory change seal with engine in place but then you'd still need to drop gearbox to get to it. A flywheel locking tool is also handy. Job way easier with engine out but providing you can live with neckache....

[300CE]

As Covkid says you can most certainly change the seal with the engine in place and by removing the gearbox. This is what my mate did when he went to change the oil seal on mine - if you go this route, just make sure you work safely. This is what I found when it was removed, the shims had fallen to pieces and eaten into the housing (you can see how shiny it is). Worth checking the clutch for contamination as well.

[mig]

Thanks for all the useful advice so far,
Right,engine is out,lots of end float on the crank,and pieces of metal in the seal,(I am guessing from one of the crankshaft shims).
Is there a clever way of removing the shims and thrust washer without splitting the case?