Personally, I'd expect a Migatronic or Murex (a few years old, granted) for that sort of money. Your greater concern is the cost/availability of argon rather than a crusty welder.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
I just bought a brand new 195 amp turbo mig/mag welder for £150. Offer runs out Sunday though. Its a beast, not a lightweight jobbie. You'll need wire & gas though - thats just the base unit. It comes with a basic lollipop mask but auto-darkening one a better choice. You can stick with CO2 (easier to get) but weld is nicer with argon/CO2 mix. This one is gas OR gasless and although I'm not a fan of gasless, it does work and sometimes the only option if you're welding outside.
I did scour the second hand ebay stuff but hard to tell how much work they've done. Lottery. Seemed to make better sense to buy a new one and one with enough ooomph to not be struggling on the duty cycle - hence 195amps. Its 10% duty cycle.
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Not wishing to hijack the thread BUT would one of these be any good for very occasional panel fitting and the odd plate, I have a little experience but no expert?
Thanks.
Generally, gas welders give a better finish than no-gas welders. You can get gas in one of three ways: small disposable cylinders, refillable bottles that you pay a deposit on, or refillable bottles that you hire. The small disposable bottles are expensive for what you get but they allow you to get small quantities if you just have a small job that needs a specific gas. The hire bottles are what BOC and similar market to most professionals. The in-between stuff is from people like Hobbyweld.
kit wrote:Not wishing to hijack the thread BUT would one of these be any good for very occasional panel fitting and the odd plate, I have a little experience but no expert?
Thanks. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mig-105-f-wel ... 258beabd8b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I would probably avoid that one if I were you - I'm guessing it was a cheap and probably not very good welder to begin with, and that split on the outside of the torch umbilical doesn't look great. There are probably better deals to be had for not much more than the starting price on that auction.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
150amp and a little above is a good all-round power for a welder (and most sought after so not so cheap even second hand) whereas 100amp is more limited which is why you can pick them up so cheap. The smaller cheaper ones can in theory do body panels but you won't get much welding done before it overheats and has to shut down to cool off (duty cycle) - particularly if not fan cooled.
I wouldn't actually rule a welder out purely on price though. Power-wise, all the mig welders I've spoken to seem to feel 150amp+ as about right but lets face it, if the welder you got, did all the welding you needed then packed up, it may still work out cost effective. That was the same with a SIP Migmate I had. For starters it was given to me, but I welded a sill panel and all round the windscren aperature plus odds and ends before it died. No idea what it would have cost for a pro to do the work but that little migmate owed me nothing.
If you plan on doing a lot of welding then take your time and choose wisely.
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Thanks for the concise advice CovKid, I have been toying with the idea of having a go at welding but have been put off by not knowing what a good starting Mig spec would be best.
I will know what to look for now and can keep an eye out for the right bit of kit at the right price. Then theres just the small matter of persuading my better half that I am capable of welding without torching the entire camper .
thanks for the replies. After reading through a few more rebuild threads, Im unsure that I can take on the task at hand. Instead decided my wife that I should get to buy a welder and take the car to someone to spend 2500-3500 quid on getting it into better shape. That way by the time I need to weld it again, I'll know what I'm doing!
1984 Voltswagen 25 Pop-Top (No idea what type!?) 1.9 W/C Petrol based in Guernsey, C.I.
There's a cars king Murex on the bay, currently at £40. It's old and crusty but it's a Murex, thus, it'll run and run and run. One of my migs is an older murex than that and it still welds as it should. Personally, I say stay clear of new, cheaper sets. With a murex or migatronic, you'll always get your money back if you decide to sell it on again at a later date.
A quality welder will have a much better feed, which results in a smoother weld which is even more important to a novice. I've had a go on plenty of cheap sets and the 'drag' that I can feel in the crappy wire liner and stuttering motor doesn't do much to persuade of what they are - cheap.
Just my humble opinion, what do I know anyway?
Be careful though, got a sunburned thigh toast summer welding inch plate whilst in shorts - I blooming hate sunburn with a passion.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
Couldn't agree more with last comment. Its one thing to learn welding but the first priority must be health band safety. A welding mask alone will not fully protect the operator and its important that everyone, including any assistant wears suitable clothing or at least exposed skin/face/eyes covered. Best keep children out of the way too unless they too are protected and supervised - the light of the arc can be a magnet for kids and arc-eye just isn't funny.
I know all this is obvious but important that its mentioned.
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Last summer. Not toast summer but you all figured that out anyway!
Happy welding.
Nobody ever mentions the current draw and the rate at which the meter spins if you're using your own leccy! I wouldn't fancy filling one of those old meters up with shillings whilst welding!
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?