Horrible sound when go over speed bump

[jimrat]

Hi

Camper has just started to make metallic screech / graunch sound when the N/S front wheel goes over a pot hole or speed bump. I got underneath and had a good look round - everything looks alright - no missing rubbers or bushes, nothing snapped or loose. No sign of oil leak from shocks.

What are the most likely candidates? Was hoping to avoid a full front end rebuild as I need the van at Easter

Cheers
Jim

[kevtherev]

What are the most likely candidates?

Top wishbone bush is my candidate.
Unless you have access to a welder and press it's a garage job

[huggy76]

Check your anti-roll bar drop links, one of mine snapped but looked like it was still intact.

Try a socket on the nut at the bottom and see if it moves the whole link or like mine did just turns in the rubber.

[ghost123uk]

Camper has just started to make metallic screech / graunch sound when the N/S front wheel goes over a pot hole or speed bump.

What are the most likely candidates?

Top wishbone bush is my candidate.

I'd vote for that, had it on ours a while back. Our local T25 friendly garage did it for £80 plus parts (which I supplied via Brickwerks) Ours was creak / squeak though, rather than screech / graunch

[CovKid]

You do need a few tools beyond the average toolkit for sure.

I did one side last week and will do the other next week. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but you'll need an angle grinder, welder, and a way to get them out, either in a vice with a short section of metal tubing (my preferred method) or a big hammer, the other way to get them out.

Theres been a big difference even replacing one side so I expect there was too much movement in them. They were pretty corroded. Sounds like one or more of yours has collapsed. They generally squeak first, then give up.

I used a mig welder to do mine. Might be possible to use an arc welder on low for the tags (not tried) but mig would be best.

Home made press method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRaJa8NJAPc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Brute force method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NERyFBOkIY4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can do it either way but the first is less liable to damage arm if you're not accuarate with your hammer blows. You can also combine both methods by using the tool as something to hammer the bush through. Vice and tool is easy peasy though.

[MattBW]

Also check for any significant rust, I had this exact noise and scarily it was a rotten panel grinding against itself. Once my welding was done the noise was eliminated. I am not expert like the other guys but it is a possibility albeit less likely than the above.

[jimrat]

Thanks for the replies - will report back once I've had another look

[Simon Baxter]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NERyFBOkIY4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[silverbullet]

Better do them on the SA then. What's it like to get the bolt out though?

PS your vice jaws are loose

[Simon Baxter]

Long bolt? dead easy.
19mm nut and 14mm allen key.

Basically, undo the 2x 8mm allen bolts into the ball joint then flip the arm upwards.
Use a paint marker to mark the eccentric washer position, arm back down and undo the nut, then use a pry bay against the body to push the thread out.
Once it's moving then withdraw it.
You'll struggle to get the bolt out of the arm so withdraw the arm with the bolt.
It goes wrong when the long bolt is corroded but to be fair that doesn't happen often, only on the really crap vans, most are fairly good. We then use some Dinitrol cavity wax in the hole the long bolt sits in and we grease or wax the bolt too.
You WILL need to set camber afterwards even though you have marked the eccentric washers, but marking them will get you in the right area.

[silverbullet]

Thanks

[jimrat]

Hi

As advised, the top wishbone bushes were shot. Quite easy to change - brute force method.... Also found one of the top steering knuckle ball joints was knackered.

Thanks for the help
Jim