Corroded Calipers

[Palomino]

Ever since I bought my 25-year old van I’ve worried about the brakes. There’s nothing obviously wrong with them, they work fine and I’ve just checked the wear on the pads and disks today. Last year I put new SS hoses on all round and the rigid pipes are sound. But there’s still the nagging fact that they are 25 years old and I have no idea how well they’ve been maintained in the 21 years before I owned the van. So I’ve decided at least to completely renew the rear brakes.

Today I’ve noticed the front calipers and carriers are very corroded too. These are a lot more expensive to replace in full (carriers alone are £160 each) but again I’m tempted to do it.

Although I’m not that worried about the cost, I don’t want to spend money unnecessarily so, I am I right to be worried about this corrosion? Is it a sign that the calipers have had their day?

Opinions most welcome.

Thanks

Phil

[AdrianC]

There's two issues, I guess... Cosmetic, and function.

So long as the pins slide smoothly, and the dust covers aren't ripped, there's nothing wrong with the carriers, functionally.
BW don't seem to list a seal kit for any of the calipers - http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/ ... 12939.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; does, but you'll need to figure which are early/late/ATE/Girling - but whether re-sealing a caliper's worthwhile is another question... So long as they slide smoothly over the full travel, don't leak, the nipple's not seized, and the outer dust cover isn't knackered, there's not really a lot else functionally to worry about.

A wire brush and a tin of paint'll resolve the cosmetics.

[fairwynds]

Agree with above.
When I service my brakes (main service annually and a six monthly visual and clean) I use a product called Ceratec, effectively a grease used to coat outer surfaces of caliper and carrier. Keeps any rust away.
Be especially careful with the bleed nipples. Always worth starting off with nice new ones, as they are not expensive. At each service just crack them off half a turn and retighten, then you know they will not become seized. This is especially important if you have the type of caliper that has the 'redundant' nipple at the bottom (those calipers are ambidextrous).
As far as cleaning them up in the first place is concerned. Best way is remove them and do them on bench, but they can quite easily be done in situ. Old wood chisel as a scraper, and a small sized disc cutter fitted with a sanding flap wheel/disc.....just go easy because this will take it back to bright metal very easily! A 60 or 80 grit is pretty powerful!
**** use a decent dust mask too***

[Palomino]

Thanks chaps.

Looks like regular maintenance and a wire brush will see me through for now but I might have a project coming on in the longer term. Bit worried about getting them off the van though; the rusty fixing bolts don't look like they're going to cooperate in a hurry.

Cheers

Phil