do i need the whole new part or can i just get the black piece at the side of the hall sender that the
wires connect to? i have an 1987 vw type 25 , someone told me i dont need the whole hall sender but i cant
find the black piece on its own ? Help? http://www.justkampers.com/034-998-065- ... -1992.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
what should i do? because it keeps cutting out, guy from garage said could i not
get that bit seperately, or do you think i would be better just buying the whole new hall sender
as it has a bad connection and keeps cutting out, what do you think? :/
You really want to get the whole thing, I had a similar problem with the Hall sender on our mk2 polo. It started and ran fine but then cut out about 5 minutes into every journey and wouldn't restart for a good hour or so. It turned out (after much trial and error/investigation) that the plastic guard in the hall sender has disintegrated and once warm was managing to block the pulse signal. A problem with the Hall sender can be more than just a bad wiring connection!
By the way, they're bloomin fiddly to put back together!
Here's a circuit diagram showing how the Hall sender connects to the ignition control unit. If you wire in a supply & LED as shown you can test the sender. You need to take the dizzie off the engine and turn it by hand. As you turn it the LED should switch on and off. Because the wires inside the dizzie are such a light gauge it's easy for them to break up inside the insulation or at a joints at each end.
2ltr Aircooled CU with twin Solex's & originally a 009 dizzie, but now back to standard.
An interesting way of testing im going to try that
the thing is it may work when he is testing it but if the plug or wires are a bit intemittant it could fail later
sounds like thats the diagnosis from the garage
Not all vans have the idle stabilisation plug and socket so i guess you would need to connect at the ecu connector in that case.
Not all vans have the idle stabilisation plug and socket so i guess you would need to connect at the ecu connector in that case.
You can test at the plug on the dizzie. I drew the rest of the circuit just in case I needed to trouble shoot further down the line. Here's a link to testing the same switch used by BMW on their bikes.
Not all vans have the idle stabilisation plug and socket so i guess you would need to connect at the ecu connector in that case.
You can test at the plug on the dizzie. I drew the rest of the circuit just in case I needed to trouble shoot further down the line. Here's a link to testing the same switch used by BMW on their bikes.
Thanks for your help , it cut out again so got RAC out and they said that my hall sender is fine thats
not the problem they said i need a new fuel pump :S lol so i'll get one and see what happens