MOT woes....

[Santa79]

Well,
I had the email back from the company doing my pre-MOT check for me. It looks like a lot of work needs doing!
Here's an excerpt from the email, detailing the majority of the work required....

The work is mainly going to be on the brake system. Handbrake is not working. Lots of the pipework / unions are corroded and their is an imbalance on the front brake, so really the whole system needs overhauling.
The anti roll bar links have some play in them.
Exhaust has a major leak and looks very old and corroded.
Headlamp switch, fog lamp switch and hazard switch are all insecure. And fog lamp tell tale not working. The main binnacle needs securing properly.

So... I have decided to do the work nyself and save myself about £900 in labour costs!
I wonder if anyone knows how easy it is to replace an entire brake system and the parst I will need?
I reckon I can tackle the exhaust pretty easily (Until I have to start at it with the angle grinder!)

[mm289]

Well,
The work is mainly going to be on the brake system. Handbrake is not working. Lots of the pipework / unions are corroded and their is an imbalance on the front brake, so really the whole system needs overhauling.
The anti roll bar links have some play in them.
Exhaust has a major leak and looks very old and corroded.
Headlamp switch, fog lamp switch and hazard switch are all insecure. And fog lamp tell tale not working. The main binnacle needs securing properly.

Actually that doesn't sound too bad - depending on how much mechanical know how you have

Just work through it logically:
- handbrake not working: check cables underneath with someone pulling handbrake lever, probably a seized cable. I would pop off the drums at the same time and check shoes for wear and generally clean and lube the mechanism
- pipework/corrosion: you can replace pipework reasonably easily but I would start by inspecting and cleaning it - unless it has been sitting in a swamp I would be surprised if it all needed replacing (unless you want to anyway of course ), you can often give it all a good clean with wire brush and a light sandpaper and the "corrosion" will dissapear.
- imbalance in front brakes: probably one of the callipers binding, pop of the callipers, remove pistons check for corrosion on cylinders/pistons and condition of seal. If it bad get an exchange unit or if not too bad clean up and replace seals.
- arb links: are straight forward replacement if needed "play" isn't necessarily a failure item IMHO
- exhaust: easy peasy
- switches: being "loose" and the binnacle being loose is odd. They may not fit tighty and be a bit worn on a 25 year old van but they shouldn't be "loose". Either they are being over zealous or you need to check they are fitted properly. The only real issue is the tell tale on the fog lamp, it is incorporated into the switch. Pull the switch, check the contacts, replacement 2nd hand swithch is peanuts if not working.

I will leave it for some of our more qualified MoT brethren to give an informed opinion, but some of the above sounds a bit piccy and more like they are trying to help you get an A1 van rather than minimum to get through an MoT. Not suggesting you should do the minimum of course, and it maybe you asked them to be diligent in assessing all areas so no criticism of the MoT centre implied either

Nothing that a few week ends under the van won't sort and the £900 saved on labour will allow you to buy new parts for all the bits that need work twice over if you wanted to

Cheers,

MM

[Santa79]

That's the good thing about where I work... There are LOTS of engine and airframe repair lads about... The fog lamp is easy because I am a helicopter electrician ha!
My take on the loose switch thing is that they are not loose in the mountings (because they are in perfectly), but beacuase the binnacle is loose and they are in the binnacle.
The binnacle problem is that (somehow) all of the little catches have snapped off. so if I can't get a replacement by this weekend, I shall "secure" it using some airframe repair tape haha!

[AdrianC]

The only things that might escalate - rapidly - are the exhaust (WBX head studs... on an exhaust that's "very old and corroded"...?) and the brake pipes.

I'm a bit baffled by the binnacle catches (presumably on the lid) causing the front panel/switches to wobble - our front's solid even with the lid off.

[Oldiebut goodie]

The list begs the question - why didn't you fix things before the MoT? Surely you knew that the brakes didn't feel right and you could hear the exhaust blowing. Maintenance is a year round thing not just the MoT time.
Presumably the switch thing is that you cannot turn them on as there is nothing to exert pressure against, requiring two hands! That said I didn't realize that switch attachment was part of the test. A toggle switch dangling on a piece of string, albeit impacticable, is still a switch and as long as it functions as it should would still be a pass if I were testing!!!!

[Ralf85]

All those issues since your last MOT? Sounds like they are taking the proverbial and also don't have enough work on. I learnt some years ago that the best option is to take your van to an MOT station that you trust first. Then fix what they say needs fixing

[Santa79]

All those issues since your last MOT? Sounds like they are taking the proverbial and also don't have enough work on. I learnt some years ago that the best option is to take your van to an MOT station that you trust first. Then fix what they say needs fixing

I feel now is the time I divulge a small back story...

I have only had the van for a year. It became rapidly clear to me that the same guy that MOT'd the van for the last ten years was clearly either not good at his job, or lazy.
That said, I took the van in for a pre MOT check (not an ACTUAL MOT). So this was the list of potential fails from the guys at Voodoo VW. And let's face it, a company like that are all about getting vehicles to A1 condition so I was expecting a lot of picky points.

The list begs the question - why didn't you fix things before the MoT? Surely you knew that the brakes didn't feel right and you could hear the exhaust blowing. Maintenance is a year round thing not just the MoT time.
Presumably the switch thing is that you cannot turn them on as there is nothing to exert pressure against, requiring two hands! That said I didn't realize that switch attachment was part of the test. A toggle switch dangling on a piece of string, albeit impacticable, is still a switch and as long as it functions as it should would still be a pass if I were testing!!!!

I appreciate that maintenance is a constant thing, but it has been off the road pretty much since I bought it as it was a project. And the hole in the exhaust literally must have happened as I was driving it down to them since I would ddefinately noticed before hand. This MOT is just in the middle of a LOOOONG list of jobs to get it ready for the summer!!

[CovKid]

Going back a few years (about 8 ), when I bought my Caravelle, before I even took delivery of the vehicle, I bought in a complete exhaust system and a full copper brake pipe set. I hate both jobs but felt it was better to start as I meant to go on and not have to return to the same jobs. I have not regretted it. Brakes no big deal if you replace it all. Just work methodically, plod on and before you know it, it'll be done. The good thing is you won't have to worry about wrecking pipes getting them out.

[Plasticman]

yes pipes , replace the lot as said, all nice new flexis and new clips to hold the flexis, set of wheel cyclinders with nice new nipples that undo with a tweak, ah bliss and very cheap to do once and forget
mm

[Santa79]

Well I looked into the fog lamp tell tale problem last night. It turns out that there is a bulb in it (winner), but the bulb is shot AND.... There's not even a cable attached to the back of the bulb!
No wonder the bulb wasn't working.
Annoyingly, I am having trouble locating the correct bulb to fit now. Any ideas??

On a brighter note, I fixed the exhaust hole and the brake lines look ok to me (I'm a helicopter engineer and I would let it fly with pipes like that!), it's purely surface corrosion and easily cleaned off.
Plus, I booked the van in for an ACTUAL MOT later today. I have used a place that is purely MOTs (and they did my mate's old T25) just so I can get a definitive and unbiased list of failures/work required.
Let's see what happens...

[AdrianC]

Annoyingly, I am having trouble locating the correct bulb to fit now. Any ideas??

I've never yet met a fog light that wasn't a bog standard 21w bulb - same as the indicators.

[Santa79]

Annoyingly, I am having trouble locating the correct bulb to fit now. Any ideas??

I've never yet met a fog light that wasn't a bog standard 21w bulb - same as the indicators.

Me neither....
But sadly, this bulb is the tell tale bulb in the switch on the dash..

[AdrianC]

Annoyingly, I am having trouble locating the correct bulb to fit now. Any ideas??

I've never yet met a fog light that wasn't a bog standard 21w bulb - same as the indicators.

Me neither....
But sadly, this bulb is the tell tale bulb in the switch on the dash..

D'oh. It's early... Probably easier to swap the switch...

[Santa79]

that's what i was thinking...

[Santa79]

Well...
The list of fails is err... lengthy! There were 7 things...
handbrake needs adjusting (both sides recording no effort)
Both front upper ball joint dust covers (is this easy to do myself?!)
parking brake efficiency below requirements (see above!)
Front brake application uneven
And last but not least... Offside rear vehicle structure has excessive corrosion within 30cm of body mountings.
Two advisories... Both front brake discs worn, and brake lines slightly corroded.

So, it looks like a front caliper refurb on both sides. and a handbrake adjustment/cable replacement and ball joint changes.
He did get me under the van to show me a couple of things too. They were all very impressed with how good the chassis is though, which is a slight win for me haha!