I need to replace the front exhaust manifold on my DJ engine.
Vagcat seems to show it is fastened to the cylinder heads by nuts and studs on the LHS and bolts (more precisely - setscrews) on the RHS.
On both sides there are concave spring washers and plain washers.
My existing system has 3 bolts and one stud and no washers at all. It was fitted by a VAG garage about 20 years ago.
My questions are:
does it matter whether I use studs or bolts? If the manifold needs to come off again then studs would be preferable so as to minimise damage to the head; but if it lasts another 20 years I won't care!
are the washers important? The VW concave spring washers appear to be unavailable - should I use ordinary spring washers?
Any advice gratefully accepted.
BTW The new manifold is a stainless part from Baxters.
jp
exhaust manifold fixings
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 67
- Joined: 02 May 2007, 10:07
- 80-90 Mem No: 8028
- Location: Denmead, Hants., UK
exhaust manifold fixings
1986, Westfalia Joker, DJ 2.1 engine, 5 speed.
Mine from new, now sold.
Replaced by a T6 California
Mine from new, now sold.
Replaced by a T6 California
- kevtherev
- Registered user
- Posts: 18832
- Joined: 23 Oct 2005, 20:13
- 80-90 Mem No: 2264
- Location: Country estate Wolverhampton Actually
Re: exhaust manifold fixings
Studs with copper nuts are best if removal is needed again within 5 years
I use stainless bolts throughout.
I use stainless bolts throughout.
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 67
- Joined: 02 May 2007, 10:07
- 80-90 Mem No: 8028
- Location: Denmead, Hants., UK
Re: exhaust manifold fixings
Thanks kev.
What about washers?
jp
What about washers?
jp
1986, Westfalia Joker, DJ 2.1 engine, 5 speed.
Mine from new, now sold.
Replaced by a T6 California
Mine from new, now sold.
Replaced by a T6 California
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12425
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: exhaust manifold fixings
I have used stainless studs , standard stainless flat washers and stainless nuts and they have never shaken loose but they come off when you need them to
Your exhaust may last 20 years but you can bet it needs to come off before that for a head seal or something
You could use bolts also early exhausts for dg did but as you say studs are better for the head at least one of the fixings would be difficult with a bolt but I can't remember which one
Assemble with copper grease
Same as Kev all the other bolts are stainless also cheap enough from screwfix
Your exhaust may last 20 years but you can bet it needs to come off before that for a head seal or something
You could use bolts also early exhausts for dg did but as you say studs are better for the head at least one of the fixings would be difficult with a bolt but I can't remember which one
Assemble with copper grease
Same as Kev all the other bolts are stainless also cheap enough from screwfix
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
itchylinks
itchylinks
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 67
- Joined: 02 May 2007, 10:07
- 80-90 Mem No: 8028
- Location: Denmead, Hants., UK
Re: exhaust manifold fixings
Many thanks for the advice.
I have bought some nuts from VW Heritage; sold as 'anti-seize' and to the same part number as given in Vagcat.
Actually, looking at the thread inside the nuts they are more like metal self-locking nuts.
I've got a bag of A2 stainless nuts in the garage (for my other boxers - BMW twins!)
I think I'll use those.
jp
I have bought some nuts from VW Heritage; sold as 'anti-seize' and to the same part number as given in Vagcat.
Actually, looking at the thread inside the nuts they are more like metal self-locking nuts.
I've got a bag of A2 stainless nuts in the garage (for my other boxers - BMW twins!)
I think I'll use those.
jp
1986, Westfalia Joker, DJ 2.1 engine, 5 speed.
Mine from new, now sold.
Replaced by a T6 California
Mine from new, now sold.
Replaced by a T6 California