Sealing yer Engine
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Sealing yer Engine
Hi guys been a while.
Just got quoted a massive amount of money to seal my complete engine. Is this a major deal or is it something you can do yourself quite easily? They said it would take a few days to do?
Thanks
Just got quoted a massive amount of money to seal my complete engine. Is this a major deal or is it something you can do yourself quite easily? They said it would take a few days to do?
Thanks
vwt25 1983 1.6ct Aircooled hitop
- itchyfeet
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Depends on whats leaking
some seals are easy to replace some are not
Depends on your skills, knoledge and ability to research and learn
some seals are easy to replace some are not
Depends on your skills, knoledge and ability to research and learn
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
itchylinks
itchylinks
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Are you talking about tinware & and new seal around the engine bay? If it's just the seal you can buy a rubber profile by the metre. Fitting is a bit of a fiddle but not impossible if you've got strong hands & good gloves.
I used 4 metres of ETS1395 from seals + direct
http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.a ... entId=3#23" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I used 4 metres of ETS1395 from seals + direct
http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.a ... entId=3#23" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Last edited by BOXY on 12 Nov 2013, 19:44, edited 1 time in total.
2ltr Aircooled CU with twin Solex's & originally a 009 dizzie, but now back to standard.
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Hi. The engine is cacked in oil and has been leaking into the exhaust system and onto the heat exchangers so I assume a whole new set of engine seals and gaskets. Also need to get manifold gaskers etc. Someone mentioned something about the push rod tube seal or something. I am not mechanically minded but willing to give it a bash. What's the best way to jack up a van and have it secured while up. Axel rests, a good jack?
Thanks
Thanks
vwt25 1983 1.6ct Aircooled hitop
- Ian Hulley
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
scarysteve wrote: What's the best way to jack up a van and have it secured while up. Axel rests, a good jack?
Thanks
NEVER work under a vehicle supported soley by a jack, no matter how big or how good you think that jack may be. You should always use axle stands or even betterer large chocks of wood.
Ian
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Two tonne ramps might do it then. Anyone in the Edinburgh Lothian are fancy a job?
Steve
Steve
vwt25 1983 1.6ct Aircooled hitop
- Ian Hulley
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
scarysteve wrote:Two tonne ramps might do it then. Anyone in the Edinburgh Lothian are fancy a job?
Steve
If your van is a camper it will probably weigh about 2 - 2.4T so in theory, when new yes they should be fine ....
Ian
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
- sarran1955
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Hello
Question.. is the engine leaking oil out of the bottom..(technical term)..
Answer ...Yes.. more than a few drips.. then yes you will need to get these fixed..
Answer.. No.. not more than a few drips....
Radical suggestion.. go and get some really big bits of corrugated cardboard.. get the biggest plant pot 'saucer' you can.. a bag of sawdust..
and access to a compressor.. blow gun, and spray pot..
Put the card on the floor of your secret workshop.. park the van on it.. jack up and remove both rear wheels.. or one at a time..
Remove the bottom tins.. underneath the engine..probably pretty cacky..
The top engine tinware can be lifted.. but this means undoing the screws on the front cross panel..
Leave the spark plugs in but remove the leads..
put sawdust in the saucer.. under the engine.. and progressively with (either degreaser/and/or/paraffin) and compressed air jet
clean up the engine as best as...
top to bottom.. side to side..
Mask, glasses and gloves please..
Dispose of the 'carp' sensibly..
CT pushrod tubes rarely leak.. and need the heads to come off to change..
Do NOT be tempted by 'telescopic tubes'.. it will end in tears..
I'll let others discuss this...
A 'CT' hightop eh..... bet that rips along..
Once you have cleaned the thing it will run better.. and you will be able to see whence cometh any leaks..
Cordialement..

scarysteve wrote:Hi. The engine is cacked in oil and has been leaking into the exhaust system and onto the heat exchangers so I assume a whole new set of engine seals and gaskets.
Question.. is the engine leaking oil out of the bottom..(technical term)..

Answer ...Yes.. more than a few drips.. then yes you will need to get these fixed..
Answer.. No.. not more than a few drips....
Radical suggestion.. go and get some really big bits of corrugated cardboard.. get the biggest plant pot 'saucer' you can.. a bag of sawdust..
and access to a compressor.. blow gun, and spray pot..
Put the card on the floor of your secret workshop.. park the van on it.. jack up and remove both rear wheels.. or one at a time..
Remove the bottom tins.. underneath the engine..probably pretty cacky..
The top engine tinware can be lifted.. but this means undoing the screws on the front cross panel..
Leave the spark plugs in but remove the leads..
put sawdust in the saucer.. under the engine.. and progressively with (either degreaser/and/or/paraffin) and compressed air jet
clean up the engine as best as...
top to bottom.. side to side..
Mask, glasses and gloves please..
Dispose of the 'carp' sensibly..
CT pushrod tubes rarely leak.. and need the heads to come off to change..
Do NOT be tempted by 'telescopic tubes'.. it will end in tears..

Also need to get manifold gaskers etc. Someone mentioned something about the push rod tube seal or something. I am not mechanically minded but willing to give it a bash. What's the best way to jack up a van and have it secured while up. Axel rests, a good jack?
Thanks
I'll let others discuss this...
A 'CT' hightop eh..... bet that rips along..
Once you have cleaned the thing it will run better.. and you will be able to see whence cometh any leaks..
Cordialement..


- AdrianC
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Ian Hulley wrote:scarysteve wrote:Two tonne ramps might do it then. Anyone in the Edinburgh Lothian are fancy a job?
Steve
If your van is a camper it will probably weigh about 2 - 2.4T so in theory, when new yes they should be fine ....
The ramps'll be SWL of 2t per pair. Since they'll only be supporting one end of the van, they'll have plenty in reserve.
A year and a half living in a Westy hightop... http://www.WhereverTheRoadGoes.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Hi Sarran1955. Just to say I managed to get the old carb up and running but will always keep your offer in mind. I still have a few 34pict4 carbs left for spares.
There were a couple of spots of oil on the road but were sorted with new seals in the Rocker covers. It would seem the oil has leaked over time, onto the engine and on the heat exchangers therefore blowing in burnt oil through the front cab vents. Worse in summer not so bad in the cold of winter but catches the back of your throat!
I do have access to a compressor and a industrial airbrush with pot. What would be the best environmentally degreaser to use. Would a good detergent (washing up liquid do - probably not). I have access to some interesting chemicals at work - I'll look.
I have issues with the exhaust fitting throughout the van. It would seem they do not connect well and there has been some poor large belt-like metal bandages with clamps etc but still blow air out. There must be better fittings for the back part of the exhaust area going into the engine. I can do the others with new gaskets and studs etc but these are too big for me. I'v tried aluminium strips and metal ties but looks temporary.
I will get some 2 tonne ramps and get her up. i take it the bottom tins are easy to remove?
Thanks Sarran as usual, where are you when I need you. maybe I should move to France?
Steve
There were a couple of spots of oil on the road but were sorted with new seals in the Rocker covers. It would seem the oil has leaked over time, onto the engine and on the heat exchangers therefore blowing in burnt oil through the front cab vents. Worse in summer not so bad in the cold of winter but catches the back of your throat!
I do have access to a compressor and a industrial airbrush with pot. What would be the best environmentally degreaser to use. Would a good detergent (washing up liquid do - probably not). I have access to some interesting chemicals at work - I'll look.
I have issues with the exhaust fitting throughout the van. It would seem they do not connect well and there has been some poor large belt-like metal bandages with clamps etc but still blow air out. There must be better fittings for the back part of the exhaust area going into the engine. I can do the others with new gaskets and studs etc but these are too big for me. I'v tried aluminium strips and metal ties but looks temporary.
I will get some 2 tonne ramps and get her up. i take it the bottom tins are easy to remove?
Thanks Sarran as usual, where are you when I need you. maybe I should move to France?
Steve
vwt25 1983 1.6ct Aircooled hitop
- sarran1955
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Re: Sealing yer Engine
Hello,
You see.. a bit of patience and application..works wonders..
I would be most interested in 2 PICT 34/4s.. I want to try the new brass bushing kit now available..
and try some new jets for a 1641 project..
Payment and postage of course..
The more you can get the engine clean the better.... the crud that builds up in the cylinder fins..and all over the heat exchangers..
VW Aircooled = clean engine = Happy engine...
also, you have the big flexy air tube that feeds the mid (above petrol tank) and the front.. this is tough.. with foam lining inside.. but it is at least 30 years old..
when I did my gear linkage.. see topic in mechanical..
I cleaned out the tube, and there was plenty of bad smelling foam bits and fluff inside, also it was a bit squashed over the tank where someone had forced the thing shut..(maybe after a handbrake cable change}..
Ordinary paraffin, if allowed to soak well in , is good, then a litre tin of brush cleaner from Lidl, alternating with good blasts of air..
Works for me.. and generates very little residue..(burn the sawdust after?)..
Sounds like the orange rubber collars are lost or ruined.. not hi tech.. and maybe available..
When the heating is running right.. my van is 'toasty'.. quick to heat up.. good demisting..smells of VW Aircooled..
Bottom tins usually come off ok..remember to tap all the threads (like in the videos) M6, after painting..
You will paint them.. Hammerite or similar..
But you live in 'Little France' already....
Cordialement,

scarysteve wrote:Hi Sarran1955. Just to say I managed to get the old carb up and running but will always keep your offer in mind. I still have a few 34pict4 carbs left for spares.
You see.. a bit of patience and application..works wonders..
I would be most interested in 2 PICT 34/4s.. I want to try the new brass bushing kit now available..
and try some new jets for a 1641 project..
Payment and postage of course..

There were a couple of spots of oil on the road but were sorted with new seals in the Rocker covers. It would seem the oil has leaked over time, onto the engine and on the heat exchangers therefore blowing in burnt oil through the front cab vents. Worse in summer not so bad in the cold of winter but catches the back of your throat!
The more you can get the engine clean the better.... the crud that builds up in the cylinder fins..and all over the heat exchangers..
VW Aircooled = clean engine = Happy engine...

also, you have the big flexy air tube that feeds the mid (above petrol tank) and the front.. this is tough.. with foam lining inside.. but it is at least 30 years old..
when I did my gear linkage.. see topic in mechanical..
I cleaned out the tube, and there was plenty of bad smelling foam bits and fluff inside, also it was a bit squashed over the tank where someone had forced the thing shut..(maybe after a handbrake cable change}..
I do have access to a compressor and a industrial airbrush with pot. What would be the best environmentally degreaser to use. Would a good detergent (washing up liquid do - probably not). I have access to some interesting chemicals at work - I'll look.
Ordinary paraffin, if allowed to soak well in , is good, then a litre tin of brush cleaner from Lidl, alternating with good blasts of air..
Works for me.. and generates very little residue..(burn the sawdust after?)..
I have issues with the exhaust fitting throughout the van. It would seem they do not connect well and there has been some poor large belt-like metal bandages with clamps etc but still blow air out. There must be better fittings for the back part of the exhaust area going into the engine. I can do the others with new gaskets and studs etc but these are too big for me. I'v tried aluminium strips and metal ties but looks temporary.
Sounds like the orange rubber collars are lost or ruined.. not hi tech.. and maybe available..
When the heating is running right.. my van is 'toasty'.. quick to heat up.. good demisting..smells of VW Aircooled..

I will get some 2 tonne ramps and get her up. i take it the bottom tins are easy to remove?
Bottom tins usually come off ok..remember to tap all the threads (like in the videos) M6, after painting..
You will paint them.. Hammerite or similar..
Thanks Sarran as usual, where are you when I need you. maybe I should move to France?
Steve
But you live in 'Little France' already....


Cordialement,

