Getting There! 2 The AFN strikes back..

[max and caddy]

Surplus to requirements already! It's like constantly evolving!

[max and caddy]

I'm running a pump assisted balanced system based on the dead loss principle...

[lloydy]

I totally get what your saying with the avt filler, a b!tch in use. I cut down a oiler filler funnel, its a perfect fit into the filler. Wedges in and stays there, i then poor coolant into the funnel and have the pump running. It does work like that and gets MUCH more of the air out ( once i've got it circulating i fit the funnel, fill it up and go and have a tea whilst leaving the pump running)

[lloydy]

Surplus to requirements already! It's like constantly evolving!

im gonna rename the van Darwin!

[lloydy]

reservoir is needed really, up high in the D pillar will give it a good bit of reserve

[max and caddy]

So....how does this ere header tank your planing work? Are you just running one pipe down from high up and a tank of water? If so how does the water enter the loop and where? and how does the air find its way up up the pipe I assume is T pieced into the loop?

I may consider this set up but I'm just not sure how the pickup will look with a D pillar welded onto the back corner!

[lloydy]

just not sure how the pickup will look with a D pillar welded onto the back corner!

forgot about that.
Should work on the same principle as a heating system,header tank is not part of the system, just a pipe connected to system. As you bleed a rad water from the tank replaces the air. The way i'm set up at the moment, as there is not a volume of water to replace the air, the air just stays there, hence the use of the funnel..
Mine will connect to a section of pipe at the bottom of D pillar. My pump is in there, so i'll cut a T in by it. Having a reservoir as part of the system is probably the best option, (as long as the water level in it is the highest point) it will be quicker to remove the air and will give you more of a heat soak, although i cant see 1/2 litre extra coolant making much difference to temps.. That option is out for me though...
Surely you have enough space in the engine bay to fit a reservoir high up due to the extra head room you have?

[max and caddy]

You have set me off thinking now...better stand clear folks! I'm still puzzled, how does the air get up the pipe ifit whizzing past the end to the T peice? And won't the pump try to shove the water out when the caps off? I have spent ages thinking of the best setup and so far I just got brain ache...I could fit a massive tank say 20 liters in the shelf above the engine on the sika but the rad is more or less level with the tank..and the rad can't go higher. Also does the system need to be sealed? I have a bleeder on my rad and when I openit air hisses out when filling...but I have very little head ( ) to bleed it out.

[lloydy]

The air will come out, maybe not first pass, but it will, it naturally wants to find the highest point. (when you turn the pump off a lot of the air will find it's way there)Water wont shoot out with the cap off, i can run mine with a 4" high funnel stuck in the avt filler and it doesn't shoot out (funnel sticks out maybe an inch above engine lid)
As for it being sealed.. on a heating system it's not necessary, but in a car i would say it would have to be, as if it is 'open' water will evaporate (header tank in house has ball valve to refill)
I wouldn't worry about how high/low the rad is, just make the fill the highest point on the system. If i was to fit a 20L tank, i would put it at the lowest point, like between the chassis rails, personally i wouldn't want the system so top heavy.. circulation could be quite poor like that.( no science involved in that, just feels wrong to me) I'm getting my rad turned around btw, bleed valve at the top!

[Plasticman]

taking it a step further, .is there a need to retian the small neat nice looking filler inn the engine bay? can it not have a T at the top of the hose leading straight upto the new resevoir/top up tank
mm

[Plasticman]

thinking about it, maybe not as it would be easier to fill the system initially with the engine bay filler
mm

[lloydy]

taking it a step further, .is there a need to retian the small neat nice looking filler inn the engine bay? can it not have a T at the top of the hose leading straight upto the new resevoir/top up tank
mm

Nope, it can go. Wont be able to use it to fill as the water level will be a metre higher up, i'd rather fill it from the high point.

[max and caddy]

Ok..when I sprung a leak at van fest I had to park nose up to get water into the system...i would prefer a self bleeding system just in case...my system needs development for sure.

One issue I have with my system is if the cap on the subaru cooler is removed loads of water is lost due to it bieng lower than the rad and filler.

[lloydy]

taking it a step further, .is there a need to retian the small neat nice looking filler inn the engine bay? can it not have a T at the top of the hose leading straight upto the new resevoir/top up tank
mm

Nope, it can go. Wont be able to use it to fill as the water level will be a metre higher up, i'd rather fill it from the high point.

it'd fill the same if not easier from high up, the water is still entering at the same point, so it's a good idea

[lloydy]

Ok..when I sprung a leak at van fest I had to park nose up to get water into the system...i would prefer a self bleeding system just in case...my system needs development for sure.

One issue I have with my system is if the cap on the subaru cooler is removed loads of water is lost due to it bieng lower than the rad and filler.

How do you fill the system completely if the fill point is lower than the rad? Do you jack up the back? A little header tank would cure that, as you wouldn't have to remove the subaru cap