temperature guage - subaru conversion

Post by **scoobyvan** » 26 Jul 2006, 17:25

Diamond Hell wrote:Oh yeah, I drilled a hole in the stat (cos the one I took out had a hole in it)

That'll be why it runs so cold then, not cos I'm nice to it after all.

In hindsight I wouldn't have bothered. Hey ho - it's all a learning curve.

im not saying you cant or shouldnt drill a hole in the stat ,because if you do it can facillitate bleeding ,i believe from what ive read that 4mm is the optimum.if the hole is to big then the stat doesnt really need to open and cant do the job its designed for

the only reason i asked why is because just doing something because somebody said you should doesnt always make it right.

DH did you get your pump sorted??

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 26 Jul 2006, 19:05

DH did you get your pump sorted??

Don't get me started on that

I now DO have a replacement Walbro pump here, but I'm awaiting correctly sized barbs to fit it. They should show up in the next few days and I can get the (still leaking) piece of junk off there.

I'm not that worried about the hole in the stat - the engine temp does come up quite well, maybe not *quite* as far as it should.... but there are other things to sort before I get on to that

.

Post by **ally** » 26 Jul 2006, 19:40

im glad you guys are having a nice chat!

sooo - i bought a resistor (i could manage that) hopefully starspider is gonna pop round and help me out 2moro; what a nice man!

Post by **klatuu** » 27 Jul 2006, 08:59

Ally,

Look here Reversed coolany manifold.

Hope you get your sparks sorted.

Post by **ally** » 27 Jul 2006, 12:14

ok starspider came round and helped - good job mate!

He hooked up the temp sender from the engine straight to the dash. Works ok reads quite high, i tried a 37k resistor but the needle doesnt move; what am i doing wrong there?

I still have this spare green and black wire from the ECU ; that has temperature written on it. Just ignore that then i suppose?

Ok i know what a manifold is now! thanks klatu!

Post by **klatuu** » 27 Jul 2006, 12:48

The needle doesn't move from zero if you put the resistor in?

Just to be on the safe side the resistor should be inline, that is..wire from sender to one side of the resistor, and then from the other side of the resistor to the gauge.
Apologies if you knew this, but just making sure.

It could be a duff resistor, check with multimeter.
how long was the engine running beforehand? If it was not running long enough then nothing will show with the resistor in place.
Try a smaller size of resistor, 22ohm, or 33.

The green black wire might be needed for a temperature reading for the ECU, I would see if you can get a wiring specification, try a t'interweb search, or the subaruvanagon yahoo group http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/ before you do anything with it.

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 27 Jul 2006, 12:55

It sounds like I've hooked up my temperature gauge differently - I've taken the gauge wire out of the ECU straight to the temp gauge on the dash. If I recall correctly both temp and oil pressure lights on mine come out of the ECU, rather direct from the engine (unless the oil pressure is just hooked into the engine via the same bundle of wires where only some of them go into the ECU.

Sheesh, it works in my van anyhow - as I've said earlier, make sure the ECU is getting all of the temperature information that it needs, or it'll over-fuel.

Post by **ally** » 27 Jul 2006, 13:54

thanks guys

we tried the green and clack wire straight to the dash but nothing happened.

Yeh i did it in serial, didnt check if it was working first though. 37 pulling it down too much not to register? is there much difference from 32 to 37?

thats what im worried about, the ECU not managing something temp related it should be. It doesnt appear to be running rich, there's clean air coming from the exhaust. I rang andy at TSR, he said it was for the gauge but it didnt work like that; i told him the wire and he found one on his up there. hmmm - if it goes in for its mot im sure we'll know whether its running rich.

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 27 Jul 2006, 14:42

Do you have the sensor on the coolant manifold connected? This is the one I missed and that was what caused mine to run rich - to be honest you might well not be able to tell that it's over CO emissions-wise, you'll need a gas-tester for that.

Post by **ally** » 27 Jul 2006, 15:30

ok the manifold runs diagonnally to the left rear lights right?

Where is the coolant manifold sensor?

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 27 Jul 2006, 15:39

Well, mine's halfway along on the 'front' side of it, but then I'm running a reversed manifold.

The sensor you're looking for just accepts a spade connector - dead simple - and leaves the engine in the main group of connectors.

Post by **starspider** » 27 Jul 2006, 15:42

Ally
you have 2 coolant sensors the one for the ECU is the 2 wire one which is to the right of the one we connected the gauge to, The gauge feed is the single wire, Are you using a 37k ohm resistor ie: 37000 ohms or a 37 ohm one, you want a 37ohm or less one. Give us a ring if you want more info
colin

Post by **ally** » 27 Jul 2006, 16:07

Hi colin

yep the one to the right is connected already to the loom - then the left one is the one you sorted out.

i asked for a 37K - !! no wonder the needle isnt moving lol

Im just so paranoid about overheating after my high top melted! - i did have a bake bean tin for a oil breather cap tho lol