Flashing red oil light and buzzer = low coolant?

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 08 Oct 2013, 22:52

Don't worry folks, as above, it's going into the garage tomorrow!!!

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 09 Oct 2013, 14:32

Before I took it to the garage, I checked what oil I'd used. I had a mix of 10W40 and 15W40, so might be on the thin side....
We'll see what the pressure checks show.

Post by **Ian Hulley** » 09 Oct 2013, 14:47

ScienceBoy wrote:Before I took it to the garage, I checked what oil I'd used. I had a mix of 10W40 and 15W40, so might be on the thin side....
We'll see what the pressure checks show.

So you'd mixed semi-synthetic and mineral ? Traditional wisdom is to use mineral 15/40 and before the copy/paste 2 minute experts jump in that's what I use, what all my friends use, what we've all used for many years and what we will continue to use. This gives you a known point where you should be able to work from.

Ian

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 09 Oct 2013, 16:55

lol.
I was just using up the 10W40 the previous owner had left, and had bought the Haynes dictated 15W40 to finish off. Not even sure whether I'd made a conscious assessment. As I used to be an engineer on a lube package blending plant I aught to have paid more attention. Slight viscosity at high temperatures aside, it shouldn't have a catestrophic impact, even on a finely tuned and fettled performance engine such as the T25

Perhaps I can mix in a little 15W50 - that'd be a nice wide multigrade.

Before examining it, Kombi Klassics were already talking dodgy instrument connections.

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 19 Oct 2013, 14:31

Good news is there was nothing wrong with the integrity of the engine. It looks like it was a mixture of switches, oil, running hot, connections, so Kombi Klassics have replaced all that and it seemed to be running sweet as a nut, especially with the new stainless exhaust.

Seemed until we got home and I saw a water trail at the back. The new radiator fan switch does not seem to have managed to make the fan start, and therefore, it's boiled over again. Back down to Wareham next weekend then, again...

Post by **ghost123uk** » 19 Oct 2013, 15:39

ScienceBoy wrote: The new radiator fan switch does not seem to have managed to make the fan start, and therefore, it's boiled over again.

Just to point out that, in this weather and unless you were stuck in heavy traffic, it is most unlikely that the radiator fan would have needed to come on at all, so it is unlikely that it was the cause of it boiling up.

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 25 Oct 2013, 16:59

ghost123uk wrote: Just to point out that, in this weather and unless you were stuck in heavy traffic, it is most unlikely that the radiator fan would have needed to come on at all, so it is unlikely that it was the cause of it boiling up.

Your engine is going to be plenty hot after a long run and then stopped with engine running.

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 25 Oct 2013, 17:02

So went through the bleeding process. High revs, vents opened front and back, topping up tank, water out of rad, heats up, fan comes on.
Great.
Close vents, and replace tank cap. All looks fine and operational. Looks like I had a airlock after all. Long trip at weekend will see.

Post by **ajt1503** » 25 Oct 2013, 18:01

Just in case it helps anyone in the future. We have a 1987 t25 and had a problem of a constant engine oil warning buzzer light and sound going off for the best part of a month. I took it to two different garages and neither could fix the problem. Each garage did oil pressure tests and said that the oil pressure was fine. The second garage replaced both the oil pressure sensors in the engine bay the problem still existed once the van went over 2000rpm. We cleaned up and changed various rusted spade connectors for the 0.3 and 0.9 sensor wiring in the engine bay. This made the noise stop until we reached about 70mph and then dropped the rev's to lose speed then the noise would start again.
In the end after spending far to much money trying to fix the problem. We bought a new oil warning PCB at a grand cost of £8.00!!!! this involved removing the dash and then replacing the PCB behind the speedo guage for the new one. This completely got rid of the engine oil warning light problem! so if anyone has this problem in the future try the PCB board..

http://www.ekmpowershop16.com/ekmps/sho ... -107-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 18 Dec 2013, 16:33

Good one.
Ours is ok. Well the oil is behaving. Just bloody boiled over again though. Grrrrrrr

Post by **Mocki** » 19 Dec 2013, 21:09

ScienceBoy wrote:Good one.
Ours is ok. Well the oil is behaving. Just bloody boiled over again though. Grrrrrrr

Sounds like you have a thermostat or a head problem there now.... If it's got another airlock, and you definitely got rid of the original one , get a coolant sniff done for combustion gasses ASAP

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 15 Feb 2014, 21:11

Oil buzzer of doom is back

Might be because I've been tinkering with the dash, as the oil is actually fine. Instrumentation error, or I've knocked the oil pressure switches. FFS.

As for the water I have bought new dalek, thermostat and upper housing (including vent that works)

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 20 Feb 2014, 00:27

FIXED THE OIL BUZZER OF DOOM

One of the wires connecting the sensor to the loom was breaking at the connector. A little stripping (easy girls) and a quick bit of solder and the connection's shored up, and no more buzzer!
Feeling smug(ger)

Post by **ScienceBoy** » 17 Mar 2014, 23:31

Still getting the odd random when the engines hot and it's free wheeling. Too low viscosity oil I reckon.

Post by **Ads1987** » 12 Jun 2014, 20:47

Did you ever manage to fix this ?

I'm having similar problems so just about to follow the course of action listed so far in this thread!

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