Petrol Pump broken (again!)

[T25Convert]

Hi all,

Last night drove home (30 miles) stopped to pick up daughter, started again and promptly stopped again.

Basic investigations showed fuel at tank filter, fuel at tank side of carb, bone dry on carb side of pump and bone dry carb. A gentle suck on the pipe got me a gob full of petrol (yum yum). Popped a teaspoonful of petrol down the carb throat and it started and ran for a seconds as you'd expect at high revs. Repeated a few times, but carb side of pump still dry. Tank side fuel line full.

So:



Seems to me fuel pump has gone. Its one of the 'higher quality' Brickworks ones (looks like this one as BW seemd to have changed supplier click here), done about 3,000 miles. Before that I had a GSF one for a few miles before it broke.

Pushrod = 100mm exactly.

So, how long should I expcet the replacement to last, and any ideas about how I can make it last longer? I grease the rocker arm and pivot well before installation.

Also, its the type that splits in to bits, anyone know where I could get a new rubber (no sniggers please!)

Cheers all,

Alex

[kevtherev]

Should last longer than that..
Could you send it back and ask for it to be investigated?

maybe it will reveal a manufacturing fault.

[itchyfeet]

I wonder if you can still get VW fuel pumps?

[cosmicsheep]

I have this fuel pump too (also purchased from BW) but have recently had problems with a flat spot at full throttle. Garage suspects a fuelling issue but I ruled out the pump since it's still fairly new. But looking at your link to heritage, it states that a 108mm pushrod is required for this pump. Is that correct? Maybe I should go back to the original style pump after all.

[bigherb]

Generally the rule was with upright fuel pumps 108mm push rod, angled pumps 100mm push rod, but with these repro's for DF/DG engines it's not now clear. Only certain thing is an electric Facet posiflow pump is cheaper and better.

[kevtherev]

agreed there.. electric pumps are another good option

[T25Convert]

Bigherb - thanks for that suggestion. I've had a look at them and it seems a very good (and cheap!) way round the what pump / pushrod combo to get, plus a 6,000 hour design life is considerably more than I'm getting from the mechanical ones.

Leads me to a few questions I'm afraid:

1) Am I right in thinking that if I get the 1.5 to 4 PSI one that there is no need for a pressure regulator?

2) I'd guess from a safety point of view an inertia switch/relay is required?

3) Where is one mounted - the spec suggests near the tank, so would tucked up on the chassis rail by the fuel filter be a good spot?

Cheers,

Alex

[bigherb]

Leads me to a few questions I'm afraid:

1) Am I right in thinking that if I get the 1.5 to 4 PSI one that there is no need for a pressure regulator?

2) I'd guess from a safety point of view an inertia switch/relay is required?

3) Where is one mounted - the spec suggests near the tank, so would tucked up on the chassis rail by the fuel filter be a good spot?

Cheers,

Alex

1 Yes
2 https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=120838" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3 Something like this.

[T25Convert]

Bigherb,

Thanks for that, much appreciated - I appear to be a numpty when I use the search feature, as I never find the useful pages!

Tachometric relay it is then, as my current dodgy engine has low oil pressure light on at idle which may have an undesirbale effect on fuel delivery

Cheers,

Alex