Urgent help: Engine dies when stopping after long run

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pfield69
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Re: Urgent help: Engine dies when stopping after long run

Post by pfield69 »

Thanks Mark,
I striped carb down and full cleaned it. I have now changed both fuel filters and added a non return valve.
I think my fuel hose is too big from bulk head to card (I think its 1/4" when everyone sell 5mm and it feels to easy to put on), so I will be changing that today.

I now need a new carb gasket :(
I also need to know how to wire carbs (Pierburg) as the advice given on here doesn't corallate with what I have. I have 2 ignigtion powered wires and 2 thermal switched wires. Where do they go?

I have also replaced expansion tank and now can't get red water light to go out :oops:

I will see you at Brighton Breeze or somewhere along the M23 :ok

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HarryMann
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Re: Urgent help: Engine dies when stopping after long run

Post by HarryMann »

Get that fuel hose sorted to the correct spec!!! and use proper fuel hose clips..
Not just to prevent draining back but to prevent a leak and fire..
You are aware I hope.....?

The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call :idea

Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
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kevtherev
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Re: Urgent help: Engine dies when stopping after long run

Post by kevtherev »

the ignition powered wire is to the cut off solenoid on the carb
The temp controlled carb heater, manifold heater and choke heater run from No. 1 relay in the junction box.
This relay is triggered by the 2nd temp sensor on the thermostat housing [lilac and black]
I can put some better info up at home..
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)

pfield69
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Re: Urgent help: Engine dies when stopping after long run

Post by pfield69 »

I have 2 ignition powered wire & 2 thermostat controlled wires.
I have (based on beetle) wired the ignition to cut off & choke bi metal controller. The termo controlled wires to the manifold heater & carb body heater.

It still works but is it right?

Yet another problem: I changed the expansion tank and cap and now I have a constant flashing light.
I don't believe it is the sender as shorting it out produces no improvement.
There is no real power at the sensor (5-2V?). The temp sender works fine.
Connection in the dash is also good (pin 6 wire buzzed to cap on rear of display).

AND STILL NOT GOT BRIGHTON YET

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