Water Leak...

[Cruz]

Hi Miles

I'm no expert, and I haven't explored any of this in my own van yet, but I wonder if this will help. If I'm looking at the right bit of the diagram it looks like the O ring should go in the hole first, ie your second option.

Just to throw a spanner in there regarding pipe availability that image is of the early early water system. The tank and quite a few coolant pipes were changed and a larger bleed valve introduced. Then the entire system was dumped for the late system

Not one of the rubber hoses on the left of the image are available new. However nearly everything is available if you have the later early system 83-85

[Cruz]

Can you buy those pipes pionte? I looked recently to try and help someone and couldn't find them anywhere

All metal pipes are available new apart from 025-121-081D which is the long metal pipe that runs across the engine to the heater pipe and has the coolant temp sensor on it and 3 outlets



The one that looks like a hockeystick that the o-ring pushes onto and has the dipstick attached to it is available new. http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/w ... -seal.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Says out of stock but heritage saying its a 2-3 week lead time from classic in germany so expect brickwerks to be the same. Email brickwerks to find out

O-ring for the end of the pipe http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/o ... 3-wbx.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Gasket for the pipe http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/g ... lange.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also pipes that run behind the pulley are available too

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... ulley.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Gasket for it http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/g ... lange.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... 3-wbx.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Gasket for it http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/g ... -head.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Silicone version of the pipe that runs between the two metal pipes behind the pulley. Also short rubber pipe that connects the early thermostat housing to the engine (pipe is 25mm pipe x 58mm long)

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/j ... -late.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also while the early thermostat housing is off check the pipe flange that is attached to it 025-121-116. Order from brickwerks via classic as heritage put a 30% mark up on it



and the gasket for it is 025-121-127C http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/g ... early.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


------------------------------
Only early MK2 system rubber hoses that are not available new are

025-121-058A


Even doing this I have found that 025-121-060 hose from the carb autochoke to the long metal pipe junction is now available
025-121-060

[pionte]

Cruz, as ever a great post.... I will be linking to this for future reference, I think I got confused with the pipe that I linked to on ebay... without looking on mine in daytime I dont think that it is the one that the OP requires ...

Still certain about the O ring position though.

[Cruz]

Yep o-ring sits in the recess on the end of the pipe. A bit of sealer helps too though as the thermostat housing itself may be a bit worn

I'm a bit of an early system anorak now . I even have a box of spares that I carry around all the time just in case. Including 2nd hand Early thermostat housing, and all the metal pipes

[Miles]

Wow, what a lot of info ; what a lot of pipes. Thank you all for your input. I think my pipe is OK. It was a little rusty inside and out, so I painted the outside with Vactan but I didn't do anything about the inside.I packed a bit of RTV sealant in behind the O-ring and it seems to be watertight now - touch wood. I filled the system with just water in case it sprung a leak, and did the Brickwerks bleed. I got it full and hot and it doesn't seem to be leaking. However I now seem to have electric problems - the heater fan won't come on, and the indicators aren't working either. Checked fuses and second from right looked a bit melted and deformed on the top. It was a red one, but I think it is supposed to be a white one so I put a white one in - no change.
Now I've also got to drain the system again and put in the blue Comma Coldmaster anti-freeze I bought. We're planning to go down to Somerset (130 miles) this weekend. I wonder if I should do the outward leg with water for a really good swill out, and replace the coolant down there where there are hoses and drains etc. Here I'm working in the street.
Miles

[Miles]

300 miles and still not leaking! I emptied the system and refilled with 50:50 blue coolant, then bled the radiator and topped up the expansion tank a few times and it is staying full now. The strange thing is, the temp gauge needle which used to sit just to the left of the LED, like everyone else's seems to, now sits lower, just on the right hand edge of the boxed in bit. I suppose if it was in the box, it would mean the temp was too low, but it is borderline. Is the new water pump working more efficiently ? Or is the correct concentration of coolant making it more efficient ? Have I upset the thermostat ? I would be grateful if someone could tell my wife it's because I'm driving too slowly at 55mph ! The electrical issue turns out to be the blower fan, which on my van blows the indicator fuse, rather than the wipers like on everyone else's. I've solved that by pulling the knob off the blower. Erm... !
Miles

[kevtherev]

I emptied the system and refilled with 50:50 blue coolant,

Is G12++ blue now?

I allways thought it was pink
Remember your coolant is first and formost a rust inhibitor..quite different to normal cars

[Miles]

It was blue before, and quite watered down. There are quite a few on here who still use blue coolant, and seem to know what they are doing. If it can hang on to the blue stuff for a couple of years I will treat it to the purple stuff!

[kevtherev]

It was blue before, and quite watered down. There are quite a few on here who still use blue coolant, and seem to know what they are doing. If it can hang on to the blue stuff for a couple of years I will treat it to the purple stuff!

Does it meet the VW criteria?
your head studs are at risk if it isn't a suitable rust inhibitor, particularly as you have an early engine...
jus' sayin'

[Miles]

Hi Kev the Rev
I noticed Ian Hulley uses the Comma Super Coldmaster, which is blue, but meets performance level BS6580:1992 which "provides excellent corrosion protection for engine components including steel, cast iron, copper, brass, aluminium and solder".
Hopefully that should do it. I think it's more important to keep it strong and fresh like a good brew, but hopefully not brown or milky.
Miles