Exhaust Tailpipe Nut....

Big lumps of metals and spanners.

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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

ground it completely flush, then Centre punch, drilled out with 3mm, 5mm, then 6.8mm drills, pocked out what was left with a small screwdriver.

Top job then! I sometimes skip the first bit, or just file it flat, so I can better judge if I'm going right down the centre with the first small drill. Depends how much of the broken bit is left.

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Ian Hulley
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Re: tailpipe

Post by Ian Hulley »

angry vanagon wrote:
angry vanagon wrote:standard steel bolts come out dead easy if you use brass nuts as should be used on all exhaust components

i stand corrected

BUT the M8 stainless ones will still have a 13mm head on them after a couple of years,and if you use a copper (or 'Aerotype') locking nut it'll come off double easy next time. :wink: AND some silencers don't have the threaded flanges ... GSF 1.9 petrol ones don't.

Cheers,Ian.
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T2Andy
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Re: tailpipe

Post by T2Andy »

Ian Hulley wrote:
BUT the M8 stainless ones will still have a 13mm head on them after a couple of years,and if you use a copper (or 'Aerotype') locking nut it'll come off double easy next time. :wink: AND some silencers don't have the threaded flanges ... GSF 1.9 petrol ones don't.

Cheers,Ian.

The stainless ones I have look nice as well :)

Non threaded flange and nuts would be so much easier if even if corroded up, just cut the heads of and out they come.
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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

Non threaded flange and nuts

Non-comprehende :oops:

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T2Andy
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Post by T2Andy »

:) A Silencer with no threads in the flange so you use Nuts & Bolts :)
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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

Ah I see! As in just running a drill through it

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Locked