CV Joint (pics)

[tommin]

Well they say things come in threes, and the way my luck has been with this old girl, it is no surprise.

I took her out for a test drive this morning after getting her up and running with the pump repairs.

Clunk clunk, twang twang clunk clunk ...... mmm something not quite right there me thinks, it was coming from rear left wheel? Got her home clunking away and took the wheel and hub off first thinking something in there gone. Only one of the brake retaining springs had popped out, so replaced that and put wheel back on. Turned the wheel by hand, forward first, scraping sound only, then I rotated backwards and there it was, it stopped suddenly would not go unless I gave it a hefty push, then it twanged and rotated two times and stopped again??????

I put my hand inside where the cv joint meets the wheel, one hole, two hole three and four, only two bolts which were loose were holding the joint WOW and I was planning to go to Lapland in a couple of weeks, miles from anywhere, that would have been interesting NOT.

So now I am off to try and purchase some bolts.

Word of caution to anyone contemplating buying an oldie like these, take nothing at face value, get underneath and pry pull check check check and if in doubt haggle some more or walk away

[tommin]

All i can say at this moment is Oh Crap

I purchased some bolts, jacked the van up to get underneath, cleaned the joint area and noticed that 2 of the bolts did not just come out, they sheared, why I do not have a clue. I have no idea on how i will get those two out? For the time being I found one shorter bolt that went in and gripped pretty good, retightened all other bolts and have left one hole without a bolt. There was nothing to grip as the old bolt sheared near the surface of the joint.

I would appreciate any help on how to get those sheared bolts out, as I am at a loss

[Ian Hulley]

Remove the remaining bolts, drop the shaft down ... the stubs won't be tight, you may even be able to turn them with a screwdriver.

Ian

[tommin]

Thanks Ian for the input, so I need to take off the drive shaft to get to them, as they are inside the cowl of the rear suspension framework if you know what I mean. I will take a look and see if they are loose enough to get a screwdriver there. Update you when I succeed or rant, cheers mate

[Ian Hulley]

Outer ones will be more difficult to get in at but still very do-able.

Ian

[itchyfeet]

Surely they must have been tight enough to shear the bolt off

I'm told by what 2D that getting the bit of snapped off bolt that are left cherry red with a welding torch usually frees them up, never done it myself.

[CovKid]

No, what happens is a couple gradually work loose, the strain often works another loose, or shears one or more bolts. This is common. As said, remove shaft - start at inner end, then once shaft is off you should be able to wind out stubs by hand or with nose pliers. If they've sheared off flush with face that CV sits on, you can often work them out with a screwdriver. Do the job properly or it will go again - guaranteed.

Four bolts not enough.Heavy vehicle, lot of strain on those joints.

[itchyfeet]

ahh I see bolt shears becuase it weakened by flexing not because it's siezed makes sense

[tommin]

Yep looks like another couple of days work to get this job done, think I should soon qualify as a vw specialist, maybe even get a job with them

Seriously though, the way this engine and drive gear was designed and put together is in a nutshell mind boggling. Nothing is easily accessible, the parts that seem to regularly break are always hidden behind a load of other stuff that always seems to need removing first Though it is probably just me getting all worked up coz another thing has gone! I really hate those that have done botched up jobs then sell the van on as in good order

I found a video on how to remove the drive shafts and service the cv joints, so will study this a couple of times so it is clearly machined into my mind.

Thanks for the help guys, it is much appreciated

[Ian Hulley]

There's nothing wrong with a T25 IF it's not been neglected. If you thing things are inaccessible on yours take a peak under a T4 or a Fiat

You are going through what many (if not most) new owners do ... catching up on the former keeper's neglect, postponed jobs and outright bodges. You'll get there in the end AND get to know your vehicle properly into the bargain.

Ian.

[CovKid]

You'll also have a lot more respect for the drive train in terms of how much work it has to do moving you from a standing start. The forces are unbelievable which is why high quality bolts and checks for tightness are important. I agree the outside ones are awkward but if you use splined bolts and an extension bar on your ratchet, you can generally get to two at a time.

I do it with handbrake off. frontwheel chocked, amd jacking that wheel up sufficiently so that I can jam a lump hammer beneath tyre tread and road to lock wheel while I tighten. Not sure when I first figured that solution but does speed up the job a bit when working solo. Check for tightness again a day or so later and make sure there are friction washers (of some description) beneath bolt heads to minimise chance of them working loose again. If any were missing that could well have been the cause. If you're stuck for friction washers, really roughen up some ordinary ones. CV joints and bolts have to be spot on to avoid future probs.

[Ian Hulley]

Fill the CVs thoroughly with Moly grease while you have them off too

Ian

[tommin]

Thanks both Ian and Covkid, I ordered a new cv repair kit, bolts, grease, washers and boot so will in the meantime try these methods of extraction and will keep you posted, hopefully some pics as well.
Regards
Tom

[Ian Hulley]

Wedge in plenty of grease, not just a satchet full

[tommin]

Just a quick update, I have for the last couple of hours been trying high and low to release the gearbox side of the cv joint but not one of the little B's will move? The wheel side is no problem they were working themselves out anyway. Any ideas !! still waiting on parts from the UK.