kevtherev wrote:I have the same engine
Is your oil cooler getting coolant?
Normal engine temp is 85-87 deg... the oil temp is controlled by coolant temp
since you have good oil pressure at cold temps, it suggests a few things.
your oil temp is getting too high.
wrong oil type (thin)
pressure relief valve faulty
worn mains
oil is foaming due to high temps.
to name a few, not saying it's any of these just giving you some thoughts
When my coolant temp went over the half way mark, the oil pressure dramatically dropped.
Relief valve replaced couple of weeks ago.. No change
Never seen oil temp above a smudge over80 deg
New oil ( Fuchs 15/40) and a Mann filter
So mains... ???
kevtherev wrote:when all the other avenues have been explored as to the reason why your pressures are so low.
the remaining reason is the stark truth
I'd be fitting an aftermarket oil cooler.
I have plans to do this myself.
Now I actually have one of those but was worried that might reduce the pressure further?????
And where would it mount and how would you plumb it in????
I know I'm probably clutching at straws here but looking through google I found another forum which mentioned that no gaskets should be used on the oil pump!
I bought gaskets from heritage as brickwerks pump didn't come with them!
Two gaskets one thick one thin!
Used the thick behind the pump body and the thin between pump and cover plate, should I not of used this gasket?????
You have used the gaskets in the correct order, sorry to state the obvious but if you have been driving with no oil pressure for five years and the engine has not got more rattly or seized why worry. At 80 degrees water temp my rebuilt MV only shows 25psi at 1500 rpm. When you turn the ignition on (without starting the engine) does the gauge needle climb to zero correctly if not then you will constantly have an incorrect low reading. My DG buggy engine also shows a similar psi at the same temps despite a larger higher capacity oil pump, both vehicles have the same TIM gauges and senders and on the camper I did have to rezero the gauge needle ( possible volt drop?)
1985 hi-top 2.1MV with DG carb and LPG
1955 trials buggy with 1.9 DG high lift cam and twin dell's (now sold)
1972 1303 beetle
1992 Audi 100 2.8 quattro estate
1967 Vw Madison kit
On the oil pump,if the gasket behind the cover is thicker than it should be you will loose oil pressure as you will have increased the end float,tho id be amazed if that is the problem,was the back of the cover badly scored?Did you replace the cover if so? You say you replaced the relief valve,what part or all of it? Like said if the engine sounds sweet and has been like that why worry, life has enough worries without going looking for worries! You must have enough pressure to keep the hyd lifters quiet? If the mains were shot id be suprised if it was sweet sounding at the bot end.In the five yrs has the oil been changed,id try another brand of oil and filter next oil change.
We should all start to live before we get too old. Fear is stupid. So are regrets.
- Marilyn Monroe
As I've said before with an engine with real low oil pressure the tappets will drain a few moments after the B.o.D. comes on and the death clatter is unmistakable. False signals are soon betrayed if the engine is still running sweet as Adam says.
On a worn oil pump I've seen the lobes were worn and the cover was scored,
Ian
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
Thanks guys .. I changed the pump to rule it out/confirm and the cover plate was in clean unmarked condition but by changing to the 10/60 Mobil it's pretty healthy (enough) now! And when the B O D did yell never did I get any tappet noise ever!
