fridge igniter

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badgerfax
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fridge igniter

Post by badgerfax »

Ok before I go ahead and spend out on a new one of these I just want to check with you guys that I have gone through the logical steps to check whats up.

Firstly its an electrolux RM184 EGI out of a 1983 westy

Works fine on 240v not yet tried on 12v but am getting 2.1ohms across the element. (seems low to me?)

Won't work on gas.

I have 12v leaving the switch and going into the igniter. It makes no sound at all. Earth is good
No light ...but this is open circuit so I have taken this apart and both bulb & resistor are open=US

I have cleaned out the jet ,the gauze looks intact and I can hear gas when I press the button on the left.
Fan works but am going to swap for a quiet one!

Looks like the igniter to me :?:

Oh and when I took the fridge out the igniter was disconnected and the leads taped up so something tells me the PO or his mechanic knew it was US :evil:
Last edited by badgerfax on 07 Jun 2013, 22:37, edited 1 time in total.
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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: fridge ignighter

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

badgerfax wrote:
Works fine on 240v not yet tried on 12v but am getting 2.1ohms across the element. (seems low to me?)
:evil:

Sounds normal to me - it is a heating element. Value is in line with heater glow plugs.
Do a search for a replacement igniter - there has been a couple of threads recently.
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badgerfax
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Re: fridge ignighter

Post by badgerfax »

Thanks Oldie, good to know the 12v is within range. I have sourced a second hand ignighter for £23 so hope that works....for a while at least :ok
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Re: fridge ignighter

Post by pirate-pete »

To get the approx fridge resistance with maths, square the voltage and divide by the element wattage. So for an 85W element and say 13.5V (as engine on so alternator charging) you get resistance = 13.5x13.5/85 = 2.14 ohm so yours is in expected range like oldie says.

Take the spark lead of the igniter and see if it clicks now. If so the igniter is maybe shorting to ground rather than having a spark gap. Shouldn't do it any harm as in use the flame conducts electricity and stops it sparking.

Once you have a working igniter, you may be pleasantly surprised and find the lamp does work. It just flashes when the igniter is sparking and does not light up if you stick 12V across it. Or at least that is how mine works. I too thought mine was duff when I first got van and had a non sparking igniter because of a rust flake shorting out the spark end. The other terminal of the lamp goes to the same earth screw as the igniter earth.

There is probably one of the LEDs on the front of the stove that lights up to show the fridge is working on gas. Think it is the one on the bottom left under the water level leds. I know some years have slightly different led indicators here but mine is a 1983 too so should expect yours to be the same.
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badgerfax
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Re: fridge ignighter

Post by badgerfax »

Hi Pirate-Pete, Yep I checked that the igniter lead was not shorted and unplugged from the igniter but no clicking or any other sounds.

I have bought this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300913343142? ... 1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not quite the same but I cant see much difference, so am hoping it will be ok.

I have taken the lamp apart and both the bulb & resistor are open circuit so this has gotta be faulty.

One thing I'm not sure of is what the brown/white single cable does that comes off of the gas starter button :?:


Oh and i'm glad the 12v system not in need of repair :ok
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Re: fridge igniter

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

This is for a RM182 and yank hence the 120v, but may assist. (Google and get yourself a manual for your model):

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badgerfax
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Re: fridge igniter

Post by badgerfax »

Thanks Oldie, There was a wee wiring diagram in German stuck on the top of the fridge but it looked like something had been eating it from the edges!

Your diagram much better :ok

Thanks will try and print that out
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