exhaust stud snapped off

[Gary.pb]

Whilst removing my exhaust all was going well until the last stud from the manifold snapped. sods law it would be the last one!!

There is about 8mm left and I have tried heating up with a blow torch and getting some good grips on it but to no joy. For some reason somebody in the past appears to have used studs and a nut for the right hand side manifold and not bolts as used in the left hand side.
Does anybody have any ideas of any other ways I may be able to get it out before I start thinking about dropping the engine out



here is a pic, not sure if it will help much.

[New Kentish Campers]

This will likely get a lot of replies; one I'd try would be to re-heat the stud, and try tightening it first of all instead of undoing it. It's worked for me in the past...

[Gary.pb]

This will likely get a lot of replies; one I'd try would be to re-heat the stud, and try tightening it first of all instead of undoing it. It's worked for me in the past...

ok I will give that a go, thanks for that

I hoping my one saving grace is that there is a fair bit of stud left that I can grab hold of

until that snaps off

[New Kentish Campers]

Fingers are crossed mate! Good luck

[dumbo]

hi gary weld a nut on the end..... and while hot ....3in1 oil /wd40 / plugas.... something like and undo fingers crossed mate simon

[1_eyed_jim]

Is it just me with bolts to the heads???

[itchyfeet]

^^^^ as said weld a nut on is probably the best bet, the heat of welding will help, tap the end with a hammer may help also, soak in plus gas.

I used st/st studs ( grubscreas) and nuts a number of years ago, had to have the engine out recently and they came appart very easily, I'd reccomend it when puting it back.

[Gary.pb]

cheers guys, going to get my dad to weld a nut on for me on Tuesday when he gets home from holiday. Going to spray it every night with rust buster and give it a blast with a blow torch to give me a fighting chance.

Will the van be ok to drive to his workshop (about 2 miles) or will it need to be trailered?

[itchyfeet]

you have to get the exhaust back on to drive obviously but it will be OK with one stud for sure.

[Gary.pb]

you have to get the exhaust back on to drive obviously but it will be OK with one stud for sure.

cheers buddy

[Wychall]

tap the end with a hammer may help also, soak in plus gas.

I also recommend this. Continuous light tapping on the end may be sufficient to break the rust seal.

[jrt]

tap the end with a hammer may help also, soak in plus gas.

I also recommend this. Continuous light tapping on the end may be sufficient to break the rust seal.

I had the same stud problem on the silencer, loads of heat, lubrication, tapping and then a pair of mole grips on it super tight then tap the grips up to tighten it then down to loosen- repeat x lots , it's a good feeling when it starts to move. Good luck.
David

[ghost123uk]

Heat is the thing. As said, the heat of welding a nut on will likely do it. I have noticed that experienced mechanics don't mess bout with heating rusted studs / bolts up. They get straight at it with a welding torch and heat it up until it is glowing red. They usually come out easily after that. A gas blow lamp is almost not good enough. Plus you cannot "aim" the point of heat enough with them I find, so you run the risk of damaging the alloy if not careful.

I just struggled for 2 hours trying to get a lambda sensor bung out (so I could fit a sensor). I had tried all of the above and gave up. I took it to the local garage and they did the welding torch thing and it unscrewed just fine. Took him 3 minutes

[Gary.pb]

ok, so good and bad news. The bad news is that after applying loads of heat and trying just about every method possible the stud wouldn't budge, it then snapped off again but this time it was flush. The good news is I managed to get somebody to drill it out with the engine in situe and put in a new stud

I have spent all evening dry fitting all the manifolds etc and making sure all the remaining threads are good. My next problem is that when I tried to dry fit the exhaust to make sure everything was ok before pasting up the joints I could not fit a nut to the lower stud on the manifold to engine joint.

Because the way the manifold bends down there is hardly no room for a nut, and when you do it sits so tight to the manifold it wont turn. Is this a common problem or am I just being a plank I have only tried the drivers side but im assuming the passenger side will be the same.

[Gary.pb]

thanks everybody for all your advice, I am pleased to say that it is now job done.

I now have a new exhaust fitted and after a quick test there are no blows from any of the joints