The MALLYVAGON

[Plasticman]

well kev,i think your sorted now after dropping you phone, I heard 2 minns worth and had to hang up
right this is the bit where the slider cover fits

i wish to mmake the join just under the small swage, so i can loose it nicely
so im going to mark it and with luck this will be gone

success

a nice clean join, butt welding and leaving a 1mm gap,
bu**er it was a nice weld and this is all i have to show for it,deleted the wrong lot

anyhow i gassed it all along, less risk of distortion the way ive done it and its come out ok
f**k right going to upload them to peebucket again as its loost them , is this a trial or developmment version thats running coos its total carp comppared to the previous
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[Plasticman]

did the spots through from the inside, less to grind off,

the bottom still needs trimming on the left

it needs little bit more work with a disc but im happy its come out ok

a nice base for fixing the track back to

a light coat of weld thru

and were about done with this bit

i have strippered the rear 1/4 and am deciding the best way to tackle that
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[Plasticman]

Well sunday....
this is the stripped rear 1/4, note the grind marks left by the previous..... the filler is highlighting them , made by a road planer me thinks

so cut the planed bit off it was scrap and have uncovered a little more , was a few patches migged,rivited and sikaflexed on , more bodging and covered in all manner of sealants

sometimes these picks may be in the wrong order as peebucket has taken to cropping them in preview.....

it extends a bit higher as well

i usually do these by removing the corner but in this case its not too bad so going to do it a different way, same result but maybe less intrusive. bit like keyhole as opposed to opening up
there is the remnant of the lip up here to remove and a few other small areas

so were about cut out now, this face should be in 2 parts but as im doing it from the outside in then i will make it in 3, i will butt weld to the remnant and finnish at a join as per o/e

so looking fwd to an early start and get this l;ot back together then i can fit the wing confirming fit with the slider that was ok , then rip the lower part of the slider out and match it to the rear wing ,which will now be correct
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[lloydy]

i like that fabbed bit behind the slider runner

[Plasticman]

well setting about making the 1/4 panal edge, bit long and drawn out, but made a folded part first the cut a notch to fit the swage in after i make it. also the area under the swage is sticking out from the area above so to speak
anyhow this is the swage welded in

before i ground the bit of weld away i ran a bead over the underside , i did this so that there is plenty of metal to allow grinding and shaping as required, in this picky you can see ive ground the weld off and there is the tell tale marking from the underside addition

ground away

adding to the inner areas

new bit of 1/4 added

and a quick sand over,
it needs a little tweak then i will add the last closure andthe 2 bits on the arch then the slider gear and then the wing as it will now have something to fix to..
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[Plasticman]

Well a joyous afternoon....
worked that big delve out of the rear corner, couldnt quite get it 100% out but it will only take a smear of filler to be right n ow

it has the correct profile now

right the inner arch, the rear i have rebuilt, will take picks tomoz and add as i forgot
this next bit i have tacked with gas, its about as quick as mig yet a smaller weld, it doesnt matter if its not perfect fit gap wise as it is easy enough to fill with weld,
the grips are there so that when im welding i hook a finger round the grips and have the welding rod in the rest of me digits and its like co-ordinnated , i need to lift and push the grips to move the join to aid welding and with the same hand feed the filler rod, sound complicated but easy once you get the hang, be easier if i had a sprog to assist but ,,,,,,,,

here is a better look at the tacking

front edge, they usually go here as well, in this case not as bad as some, the rest of the inner through to the cab is fine

from the wheel side, i will give this a quick run with a disc, it shows penetration is fair

so its complete now, needs trimming to fit clean to the inside of the wing is all

sanded over, it doesnt need to be any neater here as after treating and such it will not be noticed

quick dob of weldthru

same here and a light coat to prevent surface rust

so that was one way of doing the job, im open to thoughs on other ways, personally i prefere cutting the rear 1/4 off and doing it that way but in this case the lower area behind the 1/4 was ok so it seemded a shame to destroy good metal and removing the 1/4 would not be possible without chopping the floor so to speak.
away tomoz so thurs will fit the wing and then slider bottom and outer sill, easy peasy then its front arches and detail bits and bats and into paint, at least im fairly happy that the pertinent rot has been removed
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[shepster]

Brilliant work, all the 'bodges' you're removing I'm busy doing to mine!

[kevtherev]

Brilliant work, all the 'bodges' you're removing I'm busy doing to mine!

Didn't you have to remove a bodge to make a bigger one?..

[fullsunian]

did the spots through from the inside, less to grind off,

the bottom still needs trimming on the left

it needs little bit more work with a disc but im happy its come out ok

a nice base for fixing the track back to

a light coat of weld thru

and were about done with this bit

i have strippered the rear 1/4 and am deciding the best way to tackle that
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Mike, thats a top repair panel behind the sliding door runner...I hope your going to run a few of these off

[Plasticman]

funny but yes i was thinking of it, but i would make them longer so you could choose how much to use, just got to sort the top part as a panl van one i would have it to fit up to the glass and then that would be a major shyte area sorted both side, the slight swage is the issue but eere working on it,
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[Plasticman]

Well whilst i dont use the mig that much i do need it and i got a big choddy down it and fused the shroud to the the stem surgery required

so excuse to have a nice drive to the welding shop and get some new ones, took a few quidf and for some reason a card as well. well never know what goodie you decide you need
so got some spares and a nice small one to aid doing the spots in the seal channel

then i noticed a few offers and wellll

fit like a glove , really comfy and nicer than riggers for what im doing ..the best bit £20
hadf to add the small bit at the back here, its bigger than needed but easier to weld a bit this size and cut back than to be fussy and do a smll bit

secured the rail with a screw whilst i align stuff. measured from the top of gutter to arrow mark , you dont have to be exact but the neare you have it the better as the adjustment in the door should be central

same this end

ive jumped the gun a bit ,but wing is now on for first fit and hence i need the slider on to align it in all planes, the rail on this van fixes 15mm from the inside edge of the rear 1/4. door rehunng with no changes to its hinges etc and shuts nice but

its a tad tight, so will shuffle it backl a few mm and look to the front . drive a truck through this gap

so i figure i casn come fwd a bit, its nice to have even gaps where you can
rear wing to rear 1/4 is promising

so it all fits nice or will do very soon so will weld the strips to the inside of the wing to secure to the arch and fit it, then attend to the slider
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[Plasticman]

Well lots of fiddly bit and aligning stuff
loosely fitted the wing and marked where the inner wing touches to ensure clearance and also to confirm its in the correct place so i can add the lip for securing it

lip added, it only neds a few tacks as its not going anywhere

good access in here to tack it, try to weld near to the outside of the seam ,this will hold the panel tighter and give a sharper cleaner seam

and when your happy its in line tack it along

what i forgot to show is the top outside, i have tacked this eventually every 1", and when doing it i had the arch part held about a couple of inches away from its fixing position, by doing this i create a little spring and the wing sort of bowes out a little which is what im after.
so now the gap at the rear is 6mm ++

and at the B post 7mm

I can live with this ,but after paint and during refit may alter it
this lip i have seamed it with gas, you could puddle weld through it but in this case a..n.other has been befroe and it would be hard to find an area without a spot hole..

done the same at the top. i realy dont want any movement here

these areas will of course be sanded off so no sign of the weld will remain
have given it a quick soak ,this goes right into the area and will stop surface rust etc while other bits get done

same inside the inner

this will also be treated with dynax but i dont do any of that till after paint as it has a habit of creeping and it and paint dont go together
rear seam to 1/4 is now nice and tight, plenty product in here as well.

so thats the wing sorted out ok, next is to pop this off

and as i have aligned the wing and the door and they are good, i can confidently do the door skin and know thgat i can reference it back to the wing and also the B post so no issues here
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[Plasticman]

Well, slider time
several ways of doing this
need to find the extent of the problem bit at a time

run a soft pad over the end edge of the seam this will sepparate the outer skin and the respective folded over lip , this is how other areas like door are treated to remove the skin for refitting

its kind as far as it goes, there are usually a couple of spot on each run
and lift off

corner part sneakily removed

the outer skin looks good

will hit it with the blaster, note the errrr inner repair bit, this is crap and they are all like it now unless you know otherwise, look at the state of the pressing, looks like home made bodge, i have cut a series of 19mm holes in and was intending to join them /oval them out, but the metal is so p poor and thin that it may be better to leave, i really am thinking about making these my self, as they are akin to the step repiars which i refuse to fit, im having a fair bit of stuff sorted at the mo so.......
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[AdrianC]

then i noticed a few offers and wellll

Specially calibrated for "adjusting the fit" of pattern panels?

[Plasticman]

Well off with it all

spliced in under the edge here, will make for a discrete join..
had to start a new title in peebucket as it was adding these picks at random throughout the mally. sure ive got the development version
uploaded 3 times and gone from the camera........
right back full circle to the n/s front arch,
now you can scrape and dig and cut and grind but

and do it over again

but there is only so much you can do so
v.a.g Gullwing.....not

no point messing with it and im not crawling about under arches so have a scrape and

back to basics
these are always fun to make as they have a slight curve to them

closer

is it worth it , well i think it is as the rear is good appart from the missing seam lip

the chalk shows the shonkers applicvation of spray schutz onto soil and shyte to cover the overspray, at least its not adding to any problems,
see nice metal

so i will cut this lip off and maybe an inch into the panel and make a new edge, prob do it in 2 parts, but the metal that is remaining is genuine vw and the correct gauge so i will add the same, i will also butt weld it so no chance of lips to gather crap, distortion is a minimum here as its all compound curves and if welded the right way is a doddle
i will rebuild the inner arch but to be honest its not too bad as far as they go, the B post is in a simmilar state and will require the retrurn and maybe an inch of the external replaced, so nice day tommorow
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