Rear suspension welding

[maxstu]

Started with a bit of general maintenance to rear brakes. Then decided to remove rear shocks for replacement with newer items and found this....

Both sides are in similar condition so decided to chisel off knackered suspension turrets and replace with custom made items from Brickwerks .........currently on order.

So after removal found underneath turrets both rear arms are in poor condition........

And after cleaning and getting back to good metal, near the centres are about 1mm thick. Also the original springs have made an impression in the metal. See brown area between 9 and 12 o'clock.

However suspension arms are in general excellent order throughout and around body mounts etc; and where the new turrets are welded is away from centre in an area of 2-3mm of metal.

So the million dollar question is....should I replace suspension arms completely? Should I cut out thin metal on top of suspension and plate before adding turrets? Or leave as is, treat with rust inhibitor, and once new turrets are welded in place have effectively strengthened area?

Thanks
Stuart

[maxstu]

Update

Right, here is the new turret in place.....




The base is approx. 6 1/4 inches or 160mm in diameter and about 2mm in thickness. Two inner holes are for location pins on plastic sleeve which sits between pigtail of spring and base of turret. The outer holes are for puddle welding I presume. But if I weld around the edge too will I be effectively plating and strengthening the weak metal near the centre beneath new turret? And as mentioned earlier the suspension arm metal near edge of new turrets is still 2mm plus thick...see two drain holes in suspension arm between turret and handbrake cable....... you can still see plenty of meat in the metal here.

Thanks

[Jonnyb416]

Hi, I've done this job recently. It's defo worth shot blasting to uncover anything major. Cost me £5. I was pleasantly surprised and only had a small patch to repair before welding the repair plate on top. Jon.

[maxstu]

Hi Jon.

I can see your reasoning, no point getting to this stage without checking all areas. Likely I will take out wishbones too and get shot blasted as you have done.

many thanks
Stuart

[max and caddy]

Go the whole hog and get them hot zinc dipped after...I welded round the outside of the plate on my arms...keeps the water out and stops the swelling up under the plate..arms were cavity waxed from the factory and hot zinc won't fully coat the insides so replicate.

[maxstu]

Hi Max and Caddy,

Thanks for your response. Certainly food for thought with your suggestion. These old buses do deserves a bit of lovin'

[fairwynds]

Hi
have you seen my thread? Did this job, for same reasons as you. I also used the Brickwerks spring seats, but also had some reinforcing plates welded on first. Loads of info and pics on the thread. I went the whole hog and got them galvanised too....
Good luck with it

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[maxstu]

Hi Fairwynd,

And thanks for the fantastic link you posted. Being in West Malling the galvanising company is not that far away so may consider going same route as you. Also, I'm thinking of returning to galvanised steelies with 185 tyres too. Not sure why but since fitting alloys/new tyres with same rolling diameter as originals my fuel economy has worsened. On gas now only get 17mpg instead of averaging 20? Have checked other areas with no concerns raised (including compression test) but strange coincidence indeed. Very niggling so am fitting my old scruffy steels to see if MPG improves.

Coming back to the Brickwerks replacement spring plates, and with resect, was it necessary to completely seam weld items on top of strengthening plates? Originals are just puddle or spot welded through six holes; and as my own welding is not too great was going to do the latter instead of giving to a pro for the former.

I had no thought of resetting camber or toe out if rear arms are removed for galvanising. A minor bit of rear brake maintenance was all I thought of doing because of a little piggy squeal and here we are with ten other associated tasks to perform.......very testing indeed

Have re-read your very thorough post and watched Jeds link. Great stuff and very much appreciated.

Thanks
Stuart

[fairwynds]

Hi Fairwynd,

And thanks for the fantastic link you posted. Being in West Malling the galvanising company is not that far away so may consider going same route as you. Also, I'm thinking of returning to galvanised steelies with 185 tyres too. Not sure why but since fitting alloys/new tyres with same rolling diameter as originals my fuel economy has worsened. On gas now only get 17mpg instead of averaging 20? Have checked other areas with no concerns raised (including compression test) but strange coincidence indeed. Very niggling so am fitting my old scruffy steels to see if MPG improves.

Coming back to the Brickwerks replacement spring plates, and with resect, was it necessary to completely seam weld items on top of strengthening plates? Originals are just puddle or spot welded through six holes; and as my own welding is not too great was going to do the latter instead of giving to a pro for the former.

I had no thought of resetting camber or toe out if rear arms are removed for galvanising. A minor bit of rear brake maintenance was all I thought of doing because of a little piggy squeal and here we are with ten other associated tasks to perform.......very testing indeed

Have re-read your very thorough post and watched Jeds link. Great stuff and very much appreciated.

Thanks
Stuart

Stuart
you are very welcome to that link. That's the great thing about this excellent site, there's always someone who has 'been there, done that' before you. I have lost count of the amount of times I've sought help on 80 - 90
Re seam welding the (Brickwerks) spring seats - The are designed the same way as the originals, in the respect of having the six holes for 'puddle' welds, so not a problem if that's what you wish to do. if they can be seam welded so much the better, as any moisture trap could be a pain in the future..? The other two holes on the new spring plates simply aid fitting them in exactly the right spot, as they match the holes on the trailing arms. I used a couple of nuts and bolts to hold them in place before the welding (whic, incidently, I didnt do ). Don't forget that you can use T$ upper spring packing to replace the old (and unobtainable iirc) T25 lower ones, just make sure pigtail is in correctly....
keep us posted.
Jonathan