any ideas re CU engine issue..

[BOXY]

Check under the air-box as well. The metal pipes originally would have had short flexi hoses between them, they rarely get checked because they are out of sight.

[katykoo]

Hiya, there is no airbox, it has twin webers, and pancake filters, and all hosing checked replaced recently..I will check the servo hose bit tom am, the distributer cap is on, though slightly lose, could the kerb knocj have affected anything, the van bounced off the kerb with a hard jerk?

[katykoo]

hi, I have taken some pictures as suggested, was rnning fine after the carb gaskets were fitted, except a little jerk occasionally whilst running around 40-50mph.Now the engien starts but doesn't idle at all

the only gaskets fitted to the inlet manifold were the card type gaskets, as the rubber spacer had perished. it played up the other day and hasn't idled since. the cap, sparks and leads and pipework were all replaced and checked at the garage. The rotar arm hasn't been replaced, and its looking a little rusty in the distributer!

[katykoo]

I can't seem to upload the pics..the files are too big

[katykoo]

distributer.JPG

[katykoo]

engine vw t25 bertha 1.jpg

[katykoo]

hi, the leads have been like that since changed about a month ago and ran fine, so not sure thats the issue now?

[kevtherev]

hi, the leads have been like that since changed about a month ago and ran fine, so not sure thats the issue now?

sorry your picture is upside down..... I got confused

[katykoo]

or the engine bay facing this way for a view of cap and leads, sorry the quality isn't great..

bertha engine 3.JPG

[BOXY]

Is the distributor loose? Dropping off a kerb shouldn't cause any problems, but the dizzie moving a few degrees could. As for the rust a squirt of plusgas or a few drops of engine oil on the weights will help the mech advance work properly.

[BOXY]

One other unrelated thing. It's not a good idea to zip-tie fuel hose to other pipes etc. They'll rub against each other and wear through just where you can't see it.

[katykoo]

Hi,

Thanks for the advice. Whereabouts to i drop the oil? As for whether the distributer itself is lose, do I just give it a tug to see? I have ordered a new rotar arm as well the cap is on, but feels like ther is a bit of play in it, is this usual?

The throttle cable also appears to have some slack in it, how do I tighten this? the cable again, has been replaced within 18ths, it appears to kink near the bulkhead.

[sarran1955]

Hello...

You see... a picture is worth a thousand words.

I think the expression would be: Christ on a Bike !!!!!

What you have got there is a pair of lashed up webers mackled with the last remains of a Hall effect distributor.

I'm not surprised you’ve got idle problems.

and probably 17 mpg

This will take a bit of time, (but not much money) to sort.

Hope your mecano is a good sort..

To start with a picture:


Note the distributor is different..

Now a little video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOiSOObjk2E" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Done using one of these...

http://en.serial-kombi.com/distributor- ... 10776.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Setting up an Aircooled engine is like any other... valve timing..ignition timing..carburation...

single or twin carburettor...

But done with luv....

I can preset all this for you, I've a cu on the bench right now....(Cannes 2014 here I come )

PM me if you are interested.

Hope this helps..

Cordialement,

[katykoo]

Thanks..the webers shouldn't be lashed at 2 years old..lol, but the distributer is knackered. I am sure i've read that some distributer replacements are the wrong kind for the CU which requires dual advance? I brought a replacemment distributer last year with a vacuum advance -new, and am told its the wrong kind, or is it ok if I change the coil..? In the interim, will put a few drops of oil in, and get a new rotar arm at least!

[sarran1955]

Hello,

New rotor arm......

Keep your pennies in your pocket...

Photos please of the 'replacement dizzy'

Cordialement,