The SA 2.6i Microbus thread

[silverbullet]

With near-perfect timing the noisy water pump has decided that it doesn't want to play anymore. The coolant warning gauge always has had a mind of it's own but this time it was for real. Topped up the tank and it only lasted 2 days!

No joy at local factors, so a spot of cross-ref work identifies late Audi 100/200/quattro etc as the same, managed to find a pukka new SKF pump and timing belt kit via ebay.

Good job I made a crank locking tool earlier in the year, so now the leaky crank nose oil seal will finally get sorted as well. I bet it snows the day the kit arrives

For reference SKF kit VKMC 01032 for kit with 142 tooth belt (01031 is earlier 120 tooth kit)

[Wychall]

Good news about the kit Ian.

I'll also be interested to hear how that crank tool performs. I may be interested in hiring one from Holman Tool Hire, perhaps at the same time as visiting Holman LPG Services for an annual gas test.

Who is this Holman guy? Seems to have fingers in more pies than Branson!

[silverbullet]

Hello Brian,

Projects come, projects go, some are just ideas worth sharing, some I'm keeping under wraps...

If the tool lasts for the job then I guess it'll do another ok. The key identifier for the cambelt is that the early ones had a coarser square tooth profile (a bit noisy) so they changed to the finer round tooth belt which runs quieter.

K-jet 2.5's may well have the 120 belt but not confirmed as yet.

[Wychall]

I'm sure I remember my belt being a square section tooth, if that is the deciding factor. Don't quote me on it though until I have done a double check. My practising to become a forgetful old man is coming on a treat.

[silverbullet]

At last the kit has arrived! clickcarparts.co.uk were almost too helpful, they were waiting for me to confirm the vehicle reg (I thought it was optional, it isn't) so I had to phone and tell them that it's an import and not on any lists, only then did they order it in from their supplier...very keen pricing though and the kit looks good as any.
Idler is Bulgarian INA, belt made in Argentina, pump unknown but it's all got a guarantee. Back on the road in no time, once the rain stops

[silverbullet]

Well that's quite a job for an afternoon but got it all done in 6 hours. Waterpump, cam belt and crank nose seal.

The last item is not one for the lily-livered, I had to drill a small hole in it and put a self-tapping screw in to pull it out but it's never that straightforward!
A few horrors: only 3 bolts out of 4 holding the damper on, which was 180 degrees out and the less-than tight crank bolt plus a well bent a/c compressor adjusting screw for good measure!

My tips:
Reverse the van up onto ramps for all-round access. Make or borrow a crank locking tool. Same for the idler extractor (I made do with a modified M10 bolt but not recommended) Consult a Haynes Audi 80 book (86-90) for the later 5-pot low-down. Unbolt the PAS pump and push to one side to make some space, it's bad enough with the oil filler and dipstick getting in the way.
Consider removing the oil pump to change the crank seal (have new gasket and seals to hand!) rather than struggling in-situ.
Unbolt the rear bumper if you can, it helps with access and line-of sight.

Essential tools:
Crank locker.
Seal extracting tools.
18mm full-hex socket for cam wheel. It will be tight!
3/4 drive t-bar, 27mm full-hex socket and about 4 foot of steel pipe (I used kee-clamp type handrail) i.e enough to push on outboard of the rear quarter panels. It should be 440Nm or thereabouts so needs leverage!
Threadlocking compound e.g Loctite 270 (green) for cam and crank bolts.

[silverbullet]

Nothing much to report other than the heater controls skipping a few teeth. Again! Now I must get a new heater valve fitted. I should be getting the alloys refurbished by a local firm soon as well (trade contacts, you can't beat 'em ). At least three of the wheels have pothole flats on them, so the ride is less than perfect...

I've just started to pick at the 7A engine too, now that I have a full engine management package to make it run. VAG curiosity: Hitachi ecu and injectors, but aftermarket remappable

In the meantime, I'm merrily breaking off exhaust studs in the head and installing helicoils. Fun!

[silverbullet]

It's taken a while but at last the Starfish alloys have gone off for refurbishment. No more resonant vibes at various road speeds! It was always worst on good road surfaces (hard to find in the UK I know...) so the old lady's up on stands:



To think that some people reckon that syncros get a hard time. Check out the state of the front crossmember:





That's what 8 years of the Harare-to-Capetown run does to a bus in the old country...

[ELVIS]

Starfish alloys .

*snigger*

[Aidan]

what's the neighbour reckon to the wheelless lok

[axeman]

what's the neighbour reckon to the wheelless lok

i am sure they have been broken in buy now

neil

[silverbullet]

I'm grinding them down. New neighbours but one have started building work, two big extensions going up so plenty of noise this autumn to mask my activities!

Should get the big bumpers painted soon as well...

Starfish alloys .

*snigger*

You are so wrong in the head. I do of course mean "Starburst"alloys. Mid 80's Jags had GKN Starfish wheels...

[silverbullet]

Proper result over the last few days! I've been wanting to move the Donaldson filter and air intake over to the offside, to get it away from the hot exhaust and make some space for the 20v conversion. But this meant getting hold of 2.5i induction parts, like they grow on trees... then I got the word on a 1991 SA that was getting dismantled in the UK, so got my parts order in quick...

One complete SA snorkel, elbow, filter box, mounting bracket and air duct. All very strange, it's a mish-mash of German-made 2.1 wbx parts (251 part numbers) connected by locally-made SA parts (with NO part numbers) along with a production modified Audi filter box.

[no pic as yet]

The beauty of using this little lot is that

1. hot air from the exhaust side of the engine bay can exit straight up the nearside vent, as it should and

2. the 7A filter box top - that carries the MAF - will sit straight on top of the SA lower half

I may have some fun getting it all crammed in around the LPG kit and the hoses, but the vapouriser needs moving anyway...

PS the trimmed, glassed SA Caravelle rolling shell is probably still available for anyone wanting to do a 1-off SA engine swap. Remember they've got a raised hatch, so it's all ready for a V6 or upright 1.8T installation....

[Wychall]

PS the trimmed, glassed SA Caravelle rolling shell is probably still available for anyone wanting to do a 1-off SA engine swap. Remember they've got a raised hatch, so it's all ready for a V6 or upright 1.8T installation....

Tread warily folks. The body is only suitable for a fully skilled, fully committed, bodywork expert. I have never seen such a rust bucket in my life. The underbody is best described as shot. In fact, I think most of it is still in my eye sockets, in place of the eye balls.

Keep up the good work Ian, I am looking forward to seeing how your 20v compares to Nev's 10v Turbo. I am smitten with that! Where can I get a Quattro Turbo setup for mine?

[silverbullet]

I'll admit that I haven't seen it myself, so it's all anecdotal. One sill and a rear chassis leg/inner swingarm mount are the big areas iirc?

Nev has clued me in on the finer points of the 20v swap, thanks to his prior experience. He is talking about going the same route, the 2.5 really lends itself to a 7A head and manifold swap. The blocks have the same deck height too, so then it's VW lego with rods and pistons from 16v engines with the 92.8mm stroke.

SA inline 5's are all "short" blocks, not "tall" like the 2.5 Tdi or later 4-pots, which all have longer rods.

PS Out of curiosity, does your air intake have a 251 or 22S part number? The 22S... on the 2.6 seems to have a "swan-neck" top, more like a true snorkel, but it might be part of the Donaldson dust package.