handbrake adjustment

[Tony Tone]

Am I right in thinking that the only way to take up any slack on the handbrake is the nut on the balance bar just in front of the gearbox ?. Typically, the nut is rusted on and don't want to brute force it and cause more damage.

[Ian Hulley]

Yes, once the rear shoes are adjusted up correctly that is the means of taking up the slack so-to-speak

It's only an M6 nut, if it won't shift split it with a nut splitter and replace it having run a die nut along the thread first.

Ian

[Tony Tone]

cheers Ian, off to get a nut splitter and new nut then lol.

[Oldiebut goodie]

It rarely needs adjustment - as Ian says adjust your shoes correctly first.

[California Dreamin]

As said, the correct way of adjusting is at the drums through the hole in the back plates. Once adjusted the hand brake 'free play' will also have reduced.
Owners who had had their van for a few years know that when the handbrake starts to come up a bit more than it should, it's time to adjust at the drums.
Just be sure that once the drum starts 'binding' then back off the adjuster the opposite way several clicks until the drum turns freely and the shoes have a little clearance.


Martin

[faggie]

and if its a early van replace the handbrake lever for the later type with plastic cover than the rubber boot type as it takes all the slop out of the system

[thatsrustytoo]

Dear Handbrake specialists,

I have read your thread with interest, as I have spent most of today trying to get my handbrake to work, after having fitted Baxter's new front cable. My question relates to the self adjusters. I have manually rotated the adjust wheel, until the shoes are just touching the drum, but I just cannot understand how it is automatically adjusted. There is a steel piece attached to the leading shoe, which is attached by a long spring to the base of the leading shoe. The other end of this springy metal piece engages with the adjuster wheel. This has to have some force applied to the other end, pulling it down. This should then pivot on its locating pin, thus moving the adjust wheel. BUT the end of the sleeve is right underneath the end of this metal piece, so it seems to me that it doesn't matter how much force is applied to the end of the adjuster, as it just can't move because the sleeve is there. The ends of the sleeve are slightly different. They are the same length, but on one side the corner is slightly cut off. Is that the side that should be facing you as you look at the brakes? I have tried reversing the sleeve, but either way round it won't pivot, so can't automatically adjust. I just don't get it. I must be really stupid.

Can anybody please enlighten me...or failing that...just shoot me!

thatsrustytoo...

[Oldiebut goodie]

[Ian Hulley]

If you tried pressing the brake pedal with the brake drums off you would hear a clicking as the adjuster ratchets until the shoes make contact with the drums. As the linings and drum wear down the self adjustment should click onto the next tooth of the ratchet .... note the emphasis on the should.

Ian

[California Dreamin]

Have you re-fitted as per WIKI......pictures say a thousand words:

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Br ... _servicing

Martin

[AdrianC]

Can anybody please enlighten me...

There's two adjustments, as has been said.

The adjustment on the cable adjusts for stretch in the cables as they age.
The adjustment on the shoes adjusts for wear in the shoes. Remember - this affects the rear footbrake as well as the handbrake.

It's basically a bog-standard self-adjusting drum brake. Nothing special at all. Make sure that the two halves aren't stuck together, and make sure that the ratchet wheel rotates freely. Plenty of copaslip.

As the handbrake's used, the "pick" tries to push the wheel round, which it's free to do once the pressure on it from the springs is removed. When there's enough movement, it goes round one segment. When you put the brakes together, make sure the wheel's wound out so that there's a bit of pre-load on it, and it'll do the rest itself. The one thing you really need to do is make sure the threaded end is to the other shoe to the "pick", which keeps the wheel in the right place throughout the full range of wear.

As Martin says - the pic in the Wiki makes it easy to understand.

[California Dreamin]

The only thing I disagree with...and it's not because Adrian mentioned it, is the adjuster threads should be cleaned with a wire brush (rotational type on a bench grinder are best) but not lubricated with Copaslip.
Unfortunately, Copaslip hardens and sets over time and together with the brake dust will actually gum the threads solid and prevent the adjuster from turning. This part needs to be rust free and clean but perfectly dry.

As a side note* The same applies to starter motor bendix/pinion mechanism ....they should be cleaned with a solvent (petrol/thinners) but not lubricated. A definite no no on clutch splines as well although these should be lubricated with a specialist spline grease.

Martin

[AdrianC]

Unfortunately, Copaslip hardens and sets over time and together with the brake dust will actually gum the threads solid and prevent the adjuster from turning.

Furry muff. I freely admit to being over-eager with the stuff sometimes... I've got a big tub, and I'm not afraid to use it. <grin>

[thatsrustytoo]

Dear Brake Nuts,

I am particularly grateful to 'Oldie...' for the advice on guns! As they say..." I did ask for it".

The other advice was also useful, so many thanks to you all. The handbrake is now working, but is at the end of its adjustment travel at the equalisation bar. So I may not have adjusted the shoes out quite far enough. I can see there will be much Faffing today..........

As for the self adjustment, I just don't see how it could apply any force to the wheel, but I am happy to put the drum back on and tackle task no 2346.

Cheers,

Thatsrustytoo.......

[California Dreamin]

As for the self adjustment, I just don't see how it could apply any force to the wheel, but I am happy to put the drum back on and tackle task no 2346.

Put it simply.....if the clearance between shoe and drum is substantial the 'sweep' of the adjusting arm is increased....allowing the arm down far enough to hook under the next tooth of the adjuster then up as the pistons push the shoes outward. It will keep adjusting 'ONE NOTCH' at a time, until the clearance is minimal and thus the 'sweep' of the arm isn't sufficient to reach the next notch on the adjuster wheel.....that is until the shoes wears a little and the sweep of that adjusting finger reaches down to the next tooth...so on and so forth....



Martin