Welding above front jacking point

[Plasticman]

thats fine. its internal as such so not an issue that i recall
you have to take care though because of the following
you have the inner sill and the repair your doing i would from what i can see let it onto the inner sill and not the outer edge or face of it if that makes sense. then when you weld the bit i made you this should sit onto the face of the sill and you will have to play with the round cut out bit so it all sits about an 1/8" above the sill etc then you can run a nice bit of weld here,
and then grind back smooth as the outer part of the B post goes over all of it and spot/puddle welds through , you should clamp it to the bit i made then tap the B post outer skin over each side so it fits snug to this and also the inner sill area,
if you dont do it this way you end up with a big cumbersone lump....
oh i like the blood and such , missed did we
mm

[HarryMann]

And I use a 1" wood chisel, v.sharp and kept sharp for the thinner stuff. You'll see one in Wiki for removing that dratted underseal, with rounded edged to prevent collateral damage

Sabre saws (recip saws) are handy, I have a 12V Milwaukee.

But another way, once you have a small starter hole, is to open it out with a square, triangular or round file, or a padsaw down 2 sides, nipping across the fold line with good quality (Knipex) nippers OK pincers?

One tool I now use as much as the grinder is the power-file, originally I bought a B&D but its days were numbered so for £30 or so I replaced it with a FERM, which comes with a really narrow spare arm. It's possible to make a 1" square hole with this, once it's in, being about 1/2" wide.

Hopefully with Mike's suggestions as well this helps

Maybe checkout tools and techniques in the Wiki if you have time to browse. .

[waltraud]

Ha, Lots of blood, didn't notice it till I saw red- I used a small sharp chisel today, very helpful/easy.....plan to rake out inner sill with hanger wire / Hoover then vactan n paint / anti-rust wax.....after welding. Hopefully it will be warm, dry and wind free tomorrow!

[HarryMann]

Wind has dropped here and myself made good progress yesterday finishing the floor over the B pillar and the bottom door rubber retaining section.. so all closed up now and RC800'd'ed'ed.

I use a small pick set, like scriber point size with a hook end, Stanley modelling knife blades for scraping out (like a Swann Morton but a bit more robust), small 3/8" chisel, larger 1" chisel, 1/2" and 1" wood chisels with edges rounded on the bench grinder and re-sharpened on the stone.

I also find useful a well worn - thus reduced diameter - 1mm grinding disc useful to get where the new 115mm ones won't due their diameter. If good quality like Hilti or similar, these 1mm discs can flex a bit dafely and be used for cleaning, grinding, shaping rather than just cutting... just wear a good full face mask and leather gloves... was wearing gloves for cold the other day -obviously synthetic, not true suede - and just the sparks from the scurfing flap disc burnt a massive hole in the back of my left one.. thought I'd ground my hand away!!!

Faithful are doing some thicker (more multi-layered) flap discs for scurfing, that last longer ... with my new cheap DeWalt, a great combination.

I use a soap bar to clean the powerfile belts and flap discs from time to time, at least once before they're totally worn down...

..and of course, never forget the original hand-tools, the 12" hacksaw with 24 or 32 tpi blade of quality, will leave many flounderingw ith grinders well behinmd on the accuracy stakes, saving ages tidying up. and of course a very wide selection of hand files, from large half round (v.difficult to acquir these days, think Google Nicolson, US maker) right down to a file that I've had since aero-modellling in the 60's.. a very thin flat sem-flexible that will go between spot-drilled surfaces to deburr, so they come down flush and flat...

Been using this a lot too, to close up the floor overlays when spot-MIGing..



the full story... https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... _Home-made

You'll never get the strength unless surfaces are really nice and flush and holes deburred properly when spotting, puddle-MIGing and especially rivetting, so a clamp abs.right.next.to the fastener or weld pretty essential.

Hope some of this helps with ideas.. IMHO, you can't have a wide enough variety of tools, though some tend to be used a lot more than others.

[waltraud]

Thanks Harry , v informative. Will post some more pics of progress , I like the look of that rc 8000 is it like vactan or does it clear rust like an acid?