Where to go for tinware?

[ed_the_robot]

Hey everyone!

Looking at some old schematic drawings of a 1600 CT engine, I've realized I've got some tinware missing from under my engine.

I've trawled ebay, and various spare parts sites, but it seems 2ltr CU tinware is hard enough to come by, let alone the CT parts.

Does the tinware I need share anything in common with the 1600 engines from a bay window bus?

I guess a wanted add here is my next step

Regards!

Ed.

[kevtherev]

Visiting a VW show might turn up something especially Busfest.
Expect high prices for the rarity though.

Sorry I can't help

[ed_the_robot]

Cheers

I'll certainly be visiting some shows this year, I'll keep an eye out on some parts sites, here and ebay too

[sarran1955]

Hello,

You can make pattern part later bay under tins fit..

Repair the front plate, usually rusted through near the exhausts, with high temp aluminium sticky tape (Lidl)

What else do you need...

The little plate where the dipstick tube goes through is made of 'unobtanium'

But can be beaten out of ally plate..

Photos will help..

Cordialement,

[ed_the_robot]

Cheers sarran, I'll get some pictures up tomorrow

As far as I can see, the front plate has indeed rusted through. It looks like the under tins are missing on both sides as I can see all the push rods.

The dipstick tube plate is missing too.

Either some patterns, indeed just some ruined ones would be a start, so I can fabricate some replacements

At the moment I've only found a few loose drawings of what should be there. If the bay parts can be made to fit, that might be a good choice.

Will post pics tomorrow!

[ed_the_robot]

Here are sme pics of my tinware....











Hopefully nothing too out of the ordinary under there :p

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Right, as they say a picture is worth a thousand words....

What you have there is a late CT engine 1983, with the later airbox. Almost certainly reconditioned by VW.

Picture 2.. firstly I see that the warm up flaps have been removed, as there is no cross bar visible, this is good, but tidy up the area round the holes and seal with good quality gaffer tape, secondly. yes, you are missing the dipstick bit, somewhere I've got photos of my copy, beaten ally plate..

Picture 3, Wrong spark plug holders, should be brown bakelite with rubber air sealing mushrooms,

Picture 5, yes you definitely need under tins. You can use these:

http://en.serial-kombi.com/volkswagen-b ... 33034.html

Use a 6 mm tap to clean the threads on the crankcase, and you will need to drill an alignment hole.

Here is a photo showing the ally plate and duct tape to seal



To repair the rusted away bits of the front plate, I use heavy duty aluminium and black mastic roofing tape, stuck into place and then 'moulded to accept the exhausts with a hot air paint stripper gun..

Works for me..

Hope this helps..

Cordialement,

[ed_the_robot]

Your knowledge of the CT is amazing

Thanks for the help! I want to get everything "right". I think copying what you've done with your engine will help me have a happy Aircooled bus

One thing I've also noticed is somebody has fitted this extra spring to the carb:



The rest of the Solex carb appears to be correct, and there are springs already in place on the levers, maybe someone has added this extra one because the originals are too weak?

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Aren’t you the lucky one with your bonus spring!!

These are not rare beasties, usually fitted because the tickover is wrong..etc etc..., or because the throttle cable is too 'tightly set'

You will notice that on my engine there are no electronics...

We run 2 CT's at the moment, and despite being built up identically 'a la maison'..

The Hall effect ignition one leaves the feeling of 'vague' ignition and poorer performance uphill..

A known weak spot !!

Mine is a retro fit SVDA, costs less than a new Hall sensor..

This is what I mean:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOiSOObjk2E

This is of course heresy, and you risk being burnt at the stake... all in a quest for better performance and fuel economy..

I return 28 mpg and cruise at 95 kph, max 115.

Sort your tinware and air leaks..

Then we will set up the engine... valve timing...ignition timing... carburation..mixture and CO.

Cordialement,

[Technobadger]

I had a 2.0ltr air cooled with no tinware on it (and no heating as a consequence)
This van covered thousands of miles throughout Europe carrying all and sundry through hot cold wet and dry, never missing a beat. Even in traffic jams.
I sold the van to a guy who then fitted tinware and with the exception of a bit of heating nothing else changed.

This may of course been my lucky period who knows

[ed_the_robot]

Cheers guys!

I've got the spark plug mushrooms on order, and am planning to duct tape any holes in the tinware where the flaps were removed etc.

Then on to the under tins

Thanks for the tip on my bonus spring

Hoping to have many happy Aircooled miles this year