Loss of power when changing gear...

[ewenmaclean]

Hello,

as Lloyd says - bung that pipe up that goes to the old boost gauge - doesn't matter how you do it as long as it shuts it off - clamp it, glue it up, or even better get rid of the t piece altogether and connect directly up to the ECU.

The tube to the ECU should go from the nipple on the Inlet Manifold that you currently have a red hose attached to.

Now - for the N75 on your set up you need this:


The top one goes to the pipe between air filter and turbo compressor inlet
The one below going off to the side goes to the wastegate actuator
Uppermost hose - (probably originally the red one) - goes to the turbo compressor outlet

If you do that then your ECU will understand the boost readings at least - to be honest though I think we're looking at a multitude of problems looking at the video of the accelerator. Once you've done this you seriously need to read your error codes, and in particular the ones that come back after they've been cleared. You do have an electronic accelerator potentiometer (despite what you say) - the pump you've got wouldn't work otherwise - you may well have a wiring problem there as Elvis suspects - but I'd check your brake and clutch switch wiring first.

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

Cool... will try these things out.. having a friend with diagnostics equipment coming soon, so we'll check it out.
Will also change the configuration of the tubes and see what happens... thank a lot guys.
Will keep you posted on the progress.

[KR1S 76]

These are the errors that the diagnostics came up with...

00553 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) - sporadic - Short circuit to positive

00539 Fuel Temperature Sensor (G81) - static - Open/short circuit to positive

00777 Accelerator Position Sensor (G79) - static - implausible signal

00741 Pedal Monitoring - static - implausible signal

00513 Engine Speed Sensor (G28) - sporadic - No signal


The G70 error was erased, but the others could not be erased... As the OBDII plug has recently been connected to the ECU it could be that some of these errors have been there from before hand and are unnecessary (I have no idea)

The T connector by the ECU that had the tube originally to the boost gauge was removed, but unfortunately did not fix the problem.

What we are going to do next is configure the tubes and make sure that they are set up correctly, but we are going to have to wait for the weather to get better as it was wet and freezing out there... And then test it again.

We have realized that we also have an EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve N18 connected too. But one of the nipples is broken, so at the moment we cannot connect anything to that... Do I need this EGR too, if so where do the tubes connect to?

[ewenmaclean]

Hello,

first off ignore the EGR for the moment - just make sure the vacuum source for it is plugged so it doesn't affect your brakes. Most people block of their EGR with blanking plates. For the moment you could just leave it connected but remove the vacuum source. You might get an error code but not one that will cause you to go into limp mode.

The other errors pretty much tell the story - you need to check the connections to all of these things. Particularly your accelerator potentiometer - if it's got an implausible signal it would explain your problems revving the engine. You need to check all the connections and wiring to it. You also need to check your crank position sensor is connected up properly - it seems like you have a loose connection there. Fuel temperature sensor is on the injection pump. The ones that say static indicate incorrect or incomplete wiring - the ones that say sporadic are quite possible loose connections or failing sensors themselves.

The pedal monitoring sensor error is likely to be to do with your brake switch ECU connection - I would seriously check that as it will also contribute to accelerator problems.

[KR1S 76]

Thanks ewen... the potentiometer is brand new... that was the last thing I changed thinking that could be the problem, will check the connections

[ewenmaclean]

Hello,

is it exactly the same part number as the old one? Elvis was guessing it might not be compatible - have you checked that?

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

yep exactly the same... same part number, was sent from Germany as it's a LHD and was not cheap.

We checked today and the same happens when you pull the throttle cable on it.

[ewenmaclean]

I'd have a good look at the wiring connections to it, and check your brake and clutch switch wiring then - if you just earth them for now you might well find it revs a lot freer - I suspect you're getting implausible signals from a combination of the engine speed sensor, accelerator potentiometer and brake/clutch switches -

[KR1S 76]

The brake and clutch switches, are those the ones by the pedals? or are they the light switches?
Is the brake switch inside the dash by the steering wheel... cause there was a leak around there a while ago and I had no idea where it came from...
I opened the fuse box once and found it was covered by a liquid that had dried up and was sticky

[ewenmaclean]

Right,

have a look at the wiring diagrams I sent you ages ago - I'm talking about the white/red and white/yellow wires from the ECU - these are connected to the pedals with push-to-break switches. The T3 has a push to make switch for the brake lights (the one you mean underneath the cowling), but you have to install these push to break switches yourself for an e-tdi conversion (unless you had cruise control originally) so only you will know where these are - they can be vw items low down near the pedals or for the brake switch you can simulate with a 5 pin relay - you might have had this done - only you can find this out - it's part of the tdi conversion. If I were you I'd look for those wires from the ECU and earth them - it might give you an implausible error but you should be able to rev the van freely without it getting confused - it'll just think you're not using the brake or clutch pedal.

You need to sort your crank position sensor out too.

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

This only gets me thinking about previous things that have been done to it and might have had an effect on this...

This is what I have by the pedals... Don't know what the cowling means... but I guess its the plastic bit covering the column... if something else let me know




What I am trying to get to is that bodged up job by the brake pedal.... a joke!!! again done by the garage.
That switch is new... as the break lights were not working and not the same as the original one that was there before... the metal thing it attaches to they cut up from a scrap piece of metal, flimsy and not a great attempt (I still have the one that was there previously as I was quite unhappy about the job) I cannot remember exactly when this was changed but it was close to when all this started to happen... is that the switch you are on about... I cannot recall anything about the clutch switch, but I will check on my records... So this might have to be changed.

Then I just saw this... which is similar to the leak I had... but perhaps as I have a conversion I don't have that setup... again need to check... but still a coincidence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWjGiAuQKyc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I bought the van with the conversion... never know what I was getting myself into... lol

[ewenmaclean]

Hello again,

right nice pics thanks - look like the right vw switches for the tdi conversion brake and clutch switches - this is good. Looking at it I'd say the connector on the blue one for the clutch switch shouldn't be there - it looks like should be connected to your brake reservoir as a low level indicator - did the garage put that there?

There is a whole separate circuit for the actual brake lights - don't mess with it. The cowling is the hood over the speedo etc - have a look under there and see if the brake switch connector is there.


Can you follow up the wires to see where they go? That's the only way we'll diagnose this. The one on the brake switch is white/yellow - the brown and white one (I think) hopefully goes to earth. See if you can find a white/red one somewhere. Then when you have - make sure both the white/yellow and white/red one are earthed - at least for the moment. Are you brake lights working at the moment? I have a horrible feeling the garage you took this to didn't understand about tdi conversions and have mixed up the original brake circuit with the switch required for the ECU - this is why I'm suggesting earthing the two wires I'm talking about near the ECU.

leak's a separate issue - one thing at a time...

[ewenmaclean]

Hello again,

sorry I meant to say the switches on the pedals are push to make - i.e. to you push the pedals to break the connection. The part number I used for these pedals is 811907343B which looks like what you have for your clutch pedal.

Thanks a lot to pirate-pete for pointing this mistake out!

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

Had a look at things...
I think that the clutch pedal one was originally like that... I am not 100% sure.



For the brake one... the brown cable has been earthed. The yellow/white is connected to a relay and has 3 other cables (all brown ones, and no idea where they lead to, they follow all the other cables down the loom).

The clutch pedal switch has a blue and a brown cable. Blue joins to red and brown joins to black with a connector. No idea where that leads to, also follows the loom...

I realized that the brake switch on the brake master cylinder was not screwed properly and only half way in... no idea why this was like this.
So that was sorted out...

I still need to sort out the vacuum tubes on the engine before I can start it up...

Would really like to know where the cables follow down the loom... will have to thoroughly check this.

[KR1S 76]

One other thing to add to the "to do list"... found this...
check it out....


Need to fix this issue as I DO NOT want a burning camper...

Where the 103 relay sits on is mostly burnt and melted, there are a few cables that have been damaged too, the transparent connector seen at the front of all this mess was stuck to one of the screws... when I tried to unstick it huge sparks came out... ooops (battery came off!!!)

Besides this, I Don't know if this has to do with the problem, but after researching I think that this relay might be from the fuel pump or the glow plugs... uncertain really... will research this further... anyone knows?

I have looked at the haywood-sullivan 1996 Jetta wiring diagram but I cannot seem to find where this is on that diagram...
Does anyone know where I can find a diagram on this? Neither could I find the 53 relay which is next to it on the wiring diagram.

Where the 103 relay is connected to, does anyone know what part this is?
Any suggestions... pls

Is there a safer way in organizing this relay box besides packing it with all the relays and cables?