help needed - clutch problem

[76Barn]

Hi all, sorry if this has been covered but I haven't found the answer.
I've got no resistance when I put my foot on the clutch pedal. I've got a 1981 2ltr. I've had the master cylinder off, stripped, cleaned and put back on and it doesn't seem to have made a jot of difference.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks-

[nutbox]

Have you checked and bleed the slave cylinder .

[76Barn]

That's next on my list but I was told that getting to the slave can be a bit of a bitch? Was hoping someone would suggest something really simple.
With regards to bleeding it would that not make the clutch feel spongey? I can't put the van in gear at all?

Cheers.

[pirate-pete]

If you have stripped cleaned and refitted your master cylinder it will definitely need bleeding as it will be full of air and therefore give you no resistance at all. You need to bleed it from the nipple on the top of the slave cylinder to let the air out so when you press on the pedal it transfers the fluid to the slave to push on the clutch lever.

Should not be too bad to get to the bleed nipple for bleeding the clutch. Just hope the nipple is not seized or snapped off like mine was the other week.

Can I ask why did you strip down the master cylinder in the first place and did you have no pedal resistance before you did this? Was the master cylinder leaking? If it was not leaking can you see signs of any leaks at the slave cylinder.

[76Barn]

There was no resistance before is tripped the master, I was told that with that problem that was a sensible first thing to look at. I guess next is to bleed it then take a look at the slave. There's no obvious leak.
Thanks for the advice so far.

[pirate-pete]

OK - I don't really agree that stripping down the master before inspecting the rest of the system for leaks or bleeding was best advice.

Anyway bleed it first as you need to get rid of the air that we know is in the system from when you removed the master. As long as the bleed nipple is not seized it should just be a case of loosening it off with a clear tube connected to collect the old fluid into a jamjar or similar. Make sure reservoir is topped up to above the take off point for the clutch and slowly let the fluid dribble out until clean fluid is seen without air bubbles. No need to pump pedal as it will flow under gravity. Then nip up the bleed nipple.

Try the pedal now. If there is still no resistance take off LHS rear wheel and see if you can see the clutch lever and make sure the ball on the end is engaged with the pushrod at the bottom of the slave cylinder. If possible watch the lever while someone presses on the clutch pedal. Report back with how much it is moving. Also see if you can move the clutch lever down by hand. My first thoughts are that you have a leak somewhere but I have heard of the clutch forks breaking inside the bellhousing which means that nothing will engage when the lever is pressed down and I'd expect you could then easily move the lever by hand.

[76Barn]

Thanks mate, I'll try that and let you know how I get on, annoyingly I won't get another chance now till next weekend.

[California Dreamin]

Chances are the fault is a leaking slave cylinder.....more common than the master cylinder. If it had of been the Master Cylinder then you would most likely have seen a fluid leak underneath the pedals as this is how they usually fail.

Martin

[76Barn]

Do I need a bleed kit or will a jam jar and pipe suffice?

Thanks.

[nutbox]

It's pretty much just like bleeding brakes,you need some one pumping the clutch peddle while you undo the nipple.
Cheers dazz

[pirate-pete]

Mine bled perfectly well with just a tube and jam jar and no touching pedal.

Normally for brakes I use a Gunsons easy bleed kit that I've had for years but I read a few old posts here before doing the clutch and took the advice just to let gravity do its thing. if you have someone to help then it will probably be quicker the traditional way.

[76Barn]

Where the bloody hell is the slave cylinder? I can't see the wood for the trees at the moment!

thanks peeps

[mark]

right above the brake pedal, master is above the gearbox centreish and is where the bleed nipple is. the early type bleed in the engine bay. when I bled mine gravity didn't work for me and being the later type I found it easier to remove the passenger side rear wheel. make sure you keep the clutch & brake fluid topped up above the clutch outlet.

mark

Where the bloody hell is the slave cylinder? I can't see the wood for the trees at the moment!

thanks peeps

[Plasticman]

right above the brake pedal, master is above the gearbox centreish and is where the bleed nipple is. the early type bleed in the engine bay. when I bled mine gravity didn't work for me and being the later type I found it easier to remove the passenger side rear wheel. make sure you keep the clutch & brake fluid topped up above the clutch outlet.

mark

Where the bloody hell is the slave cylinder? I can't see the wood for the trees at the moment!

thanks peeps

Eeeee funny van you have there Mark , my master is above the pedal but hey ho
mm

[mark]

oop's wrong way round
mark

right above the brake pedal, master is above the gearbox centreish and is where the bleed nipple is. the early type bleed in the engine bay. when I bled mine gravity didn't work for me and being the later type I found it easier to remove the passenger side rear wheel. make sure you keep the clutch & brake fluid topped up above the clutch outlet.

mark

Where the bloody hell is the slave cylinder? I can't see the wood for the trees at the moment!

thanks peeps

Eeeee funny van you have there Mark , my master is above the pedal but hey ho
mm