benlawlor85 wrote:ok ill try again later its well and truely rusted onto the backing plate but im sure i can get it off. Just wanted to check that it wasnt a screw fit etc.
For a tenner a side, and given how much else you're doing to it, it seems a real shortcut not to treat it to new cables.
I doubt the bolts, lockwashers etc are anything special - just get them from a local fastener factor.
The CV boot is one piece with the thin metal end cap over the end of the joint itself. Just lever away a bit around the edges, and it should come.
Dazco,
James' place is great. He is a top guy and the mechanic there is also great. Had the use of a K75 as a loan bike when my R1100GS was in fora new clutch a couple years back. not a bad bike! Just sold my R65 on ebay for next to nothing but need the space!
Adrian the handbrake cable came out fine in the end and they seem ok. So will stick with them for the time. Just want to get the van driveable now really. Thanks for info re the CV boot, will see if i can find some locking washers. Deepest darkest Cornwall can be a nightmare for what you would think would be simple things tho!
Lastly is it worth painting the new brake backplate? i was thinking i might aswell.
Ben
Slap some black rustoleum on it , should last a good few years then.
Another Ex 1100 gs rider then, had one for 4 years until it started to cost silly money for what was going wrong with it. Having said that for 3 and half years it was fantastic and even did a fair bit of green landing on it once I got the knobblies fitted.
Looks like being a k100 now, just missed out on an RT on flee bay , was gutted.
I still have my GS in the shed! lol I did some awesome mountain tracking in Scotland. Fort Bill to Kinlochleven along part of the west highland way. then from kinloch up into the mountains. A great bike. only problem i had was a starter motor break up on me while up in Scotland. but James got one sent up great service as ever. Everyone else in UK said they couldnt do it in time. But he managed it.
Is rustoleom really better than hammerite for stuff like trailing arms back plates etc?
Ben
benlawlor85 wrote:Is rustoleom really better than hammerite for stuff like trailing arms back plates etc?
Fairy Liquid is better than Hammer*hite. Seriously, it's useless stuff.
A few years back, I contacted a specialist supplier of paints to ask about which of the very zinc-rich "cold galv" paints would be better for some suspension parts. They replied that, unless the bits were blasted, just "mechanically cleaned" (electric wire brushed), then Rustoleum would be the best product - despite being a lot cheaper. That was good 'nuff for me...
Another day that didnt go to plan. The Motorbike was being collected at 7am today. so i get up at 6:30am and there is a Motorworks van outside. To cut a long story short they said they wanted the spare gearbox i had. which would fine it it wasn't 30miles away. The driver got all stressy but finally it was resolved. its not like they paid much for it anyway! Well thats another reason not to use Motorworks when i get my GS back on the road. Anyway onto the van or bus.. i call it both. depends how im feeling. haha
Removed the RH drive shaft today. was a bit of a mission as i had the other side off and had the whole back of the van on stands. so the wheel would turn. Sorted that out with socket and bar on the hub but. I then used wire brush on angle grinder to check for more rot. Seems like the RH trailing arm which has been welded on the top has a hope on the bottom too. oh they joy so that one will have to come off at some point.
-I just want the van back on the road at the moment. as my other half is off for two weeks from 8th next month, and my only transport will be my bicycle!
Removed the remains of the sliding door seal channel and cleaned the LH sill. did the same of the RH sill and found a hole! but i knew that was there.
I then used owatrol oil which is meant to be great paint it on to bare metal and it stops rust etc. Its some kinda of drying oil...
I then stripped down the CVs. and it seems both inner joints are heavily warn and will need to be replaced. Just emailed Brickworks and they said i can send my boot kits back and get some CV kits instead. Im presuming this is the best thing to do a posed to order the SSP ones from VW heritage!? what are those ones like?
I also cleaned and painted the brake drums and owatrol oiled the drive shafts which will be painted with rustoleom when i order it! Where is the best place to get it from?
Sorry for long post i could go on. but i wont! lol
Will post some pics of the CVs in a bit.
Hi guys,
Just an update, I got the drive shafts all back on ok. used the old CVs just swapped them around and that sorted out that problem. Found one one of my carbs had problems. managed to get a couple spares tho. Have found loads more rust etc. A welder is top of the list now! Not really been on here much as find the facebook forum much easier to use. instant upload for photos etc and replies almost instantly. If anyone is interesting in my progress my facebook album for the van is: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 611&type=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
catch up with you guys on there or when i check back in here.
Drivers side seatbelt mount was a mess so cur it all out and repaired it. how does this look?
metal cut away
Lower plate seam welded to inner arch top plate seam welded to outer arch them plug welded to the lower plate
Last bit done and some red oxide on it. Just need to get a q-max cutter so i can put the seatbelt bolt back in. think i will use one of the larger plates with the bolt already attached.
next time you do one, by all means use the same method but fit your plate underneath, and drill the remains of the arch, this way you are puddlewelding into nice new metal and you wont have the raised repair on the top side
and also its stronger (not saying yours isnt) this way as even IF the welds were crap the plate would have to pull through the arch to detatch
mm
Hi mm.
Was hoping u would be about.
Someone did tell me that anything within 300mm of seatbelt point had to be seam welded...
Is this the case os is my repair ok?
Have couple other questiona for u later. About hole from inside wheel arch into b post. Best way to repair it. If its possible to repair without removing wing etc. Ill post some pics of it later.
Cheers mate thats what I thought. Feel better about my hours of work yesterday now. Got some proper argon co2 o2 mox yesterday makes so much difference for the welding.
are you now going to drill for the belt and fix the reinforced mount under this area youve just made and puddle weld though fropmthe top, dont just drill a hole in that and fix the belt to it
mm
Hi MM,
yeah was gonna drill hole for mount then plug weld for spots for it. How is it best to cut the hole? do i need a q-max cutter? and if so in what size?
My next question is what do i do about this?
as you can see at one point is the seam has totally gone!
any help and or advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Ben
Having said that for 3 and half years it was fantastic and even did a fair bit of green landing on it once I got the knobblies fitted.
