ss exhaust studs.

[what2do]

Morning all, I'm gathering the bits required for replacing my whole exhaust system as I've obtained very good condition second hand replacements. I have many drill bits for extracting the old studs, they're so corroded that the exposed threaded part is reduced to less than 5/4 mm - loads of huffing and puffing will required for the drilling I suspect!

I have already been given some copper nuts, now I'd just like to know where to buy some stainless steel studs from, preferably the ones with the hex head in them. Once sourced, is it recommended to wind them in and assemble with copperslip or something similar? All help appreciated, cheers, Mitch.

[NicBeeee]

Plenty of kits available just search for stainless steel M8 studs in a well used auction site, some people would just buy a length of threaded bar and cut to length, not sure about the copper nuts as most sets come with a stainless nut. Use plenty of copper slip and be prepared to need some M8 helicoils as you will probably knacker the threads when drilling out, and not a bad thing to do anyway.

Nick

[Bigjcc55]

I found mine on eBay, ill have a look through my history and see if I can find the seller. It was some dude who could do almost every bolt and stud on the van in stainless. They came with stainless nuts and washers so I just fitted them dry.

[what2do]

Much appreciated folks. The copper nuts are the business, 25 p ea which isn't at all bad as you only need a handfull.

[what2do]

Re-reading my oeiginal post, I should have wrote manifold studs. I've tried looking on Brickwerks but can't find them. Does anyone know what length and pitch they are please. There's plenty on fleabay with the socket for installation which leads me on to the following question - how do you tighten up manifold studs without using allen keys? Cheers, Mitch.

[AdrianC]

Or just use bolts instead of studs.

[ghost123uk]

I put mine in dry. I'm not sure what would happen to copper slip when it gets baked by the very high temps at the exhaust ports ? I should have used copper nuts, but I didn't Mine where all studs and nuts already by the way. I never did understand why VW threw in the odd Allen headed bolt here and there ?

I am sure you already know, but LOTS of heat from a gas blow torch helps the old one come out in one piece
Fingers crossed for you

[AdrianC]

I put mine in dry. I'm not sure what would happen to copper slip when it gets baked by the very high temps at the exhaust ports ?

It'll be fine. I've come across it used instead of exhaust assembly paste, the white bakes-hard stuff - and it lives just fine on manifold-downpipe connections with awkward clamps.

[what2do]

Thanks so far. I think they are too far gone to extracted. using heat and sockets, I'll mig a washer and nut whilst crossing all my digits. Make a start on them tomorrow night, there's only 4 of them - how long can it take????

Anyone know the pitch & thread please? Mitch.

[jeffj]

Exhaust studs are M8 x 1.25. the original studs are 40mm long. Made my replacements from SS threaded rod and cut at 45mm long. Threaded rod will go further into head as the original studs had a shoulder and would only screw in so far.

Fitted my studs with bit of copper slip, ss flat washer, ss spring washer & ss nut.

SS threaded rod can be purchased from your local nut & bolt supplier in 1m lengths. ie Hawks or William Fasteners.

If you have access to welding gear, weld nut onto old thread or old nut. You should then be able to get ring spanner/socket on to screw stud out.

[skippymoss]

I had one like yours (but only one).
Mine had an extractor broken off inside the stud so drilling didn't work. Friendly garage man did a great bodge though;

1 Carefully drilled round the offending stud with a narrow drill bit (3mm I think) and removed it. (this did remove some of the head material and looked a bit rough to begin with).

2 However, we found the hole to be a bit deeper than it needed to be, so threaded it about 10mm further than it was threaded before and inserted a longer stud.

3 Packed the outermost (i.e. drilled) bit of the head with chemical metal to tidy up and make good where necessary and ensure the stud was held tightly.

Been like it for a year so far with no trouble and it's nectar to have a gas tight exhaust system!

Never know - this bodge might be helpful if all else fails...?
Good luck!

[what2do]

Aftet welding a nut on the remaining stud, my advice would be to avoid a spanner and use a socket with a t-bar rther than a ratchet. Using the t-bar is less likely to shear the nut of because with 2 hands on it you can get more of a rotational pull on both sides rather just on one side with a spanner ratchet. This may not always be possible due to limited space. Every little helps, as I'm about to find out once I finish my brew - report back soon (and probably in tears!)

[ghost123uk]

That makes sense

Fingers crossed for you

[what2do]

Hahahaha. At least I'm not crying! Had a look underneath and I'm in need of some experienced opinions. From what I can see (front pipe on a sh) the bottom nut on each branch looks accessible but the top one doesn't. Is it necessary to cut and remove the pipe before attacking those 2 nuts? Mitch.

[Whitevanman]

Cut the pipe off first to help with access. Try welding a nut on broken studs but If you end up having to drill them out you will need to drop the engine a few inches to get the drill in straight. Sounds worse than it is. Replaced my complete exhaust in a weekend including lowering engine to drill out three studs.