Clutch flexi

[AdrianC]

The clutch slave (peeing fluid) came out much easier than I was expecting. Should have known it was too good to be true!

The flexi's union is one immovable lump with the slave. The other end looks no cleverer. And BW's site isn't showing the flexi for late vans that I can see...

What's the score on replacing the full hard line, all the way forward? Tank out, I presume? I'd also guess that their 7.5m "repair kit" is a chunk longer than needed, so I'll have enough left to replace the short end now, then do the whole lot later, when the tank is out, only having to remake a couple of flares?

FFS...

[NicBeeee]

Hi, glad yours came out ok, I had to angle grind my nuts off (nasty), not very easy but just do-able with all the water pipes strapped out of the way, I shall be putting pressed inserts in when I get to replace it, luckily my old union came out ok, anyway is this what you were looking for.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=48

[AdrianC]

Looks like Michael prodded the site - the pipe suddenly appeared at about the same time he replied to my email. They'll also do a short (1ft) length of flared pipe as a repair section, for the price of a second repair union. <phew>

As for those slave bolts - I'd love to get the git who designed that bracket and decided loose nuts perfect. You're right - captives welded to the bracket would make life SO much easier, especially the rear... At least whoever did ours last time put the front one in from below, so that the bolt comes out easily. Might try that with the rear one, so the bolt can go in before the slave, then hold it in with a finger, lower the slave onto it, and wind the nut on from above. Hmm...

[bigherb]

As for those slave bolts - I'd love to get the git who designed that bracket and decided loose nuts perfect. You're right - captives welded to the bracket would make life SO much easier, especially the rear... At least whoever did ours last time put the front one in from below, so that the bolt comes out easily. Might try that with the rear one, so the bolt can go in before the slave, then hold it in with a finger, lower the slave onto it, and wind the nut on from above. Hmm...

Not really, a seized nut and bolt can be sheared off, a captive nut you would have to remove the bracket and drill out.

[AdrianC]

Surprisingly painless job, with the caveat that I've not got a 7mm spanner handy, so haven't bled the new slave. The old steel pipe was manky as anything, but only at the end - so it's not before time. Cutting it with a junior hacksaw, just inboard of the rear crossmember, went smoothly.

[nevill3]

I've got this job to do, it's next on my list of non essential repairs....the pipe looks a bit manky so I am thinking of getting the flexi, union and pipe repair kit from Brickwerks, would it be worthwhile changing the slave if it is not leaking yet?

[AdrianC]

I've got this job to do, it's next on my list of non essential repairs....the pipe looks a bit manky so I am thinking of getting the flexi, union and pipe repair kit from Brickwerks, would it be worthwhile changing the slave if it is not leaking yet?

Your call.

If you cut the plastic pipe off the union going into the slave, you'll get a 6pt socket on and have a MUCH better chance of getting them apart. But, with the slave in the van, access to the union is <understatement> somewhat less than optimal </understatement>. It'll probably be easier from underneath. You might want to take the slave out to remove the union. At which point, you might as well lob a new one back in, not least because wiggling the damn thing out may well cause it to start leaking...

[nevill3]

Thanks for the tips