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As i was worried that i might run short of things to do on my fleet, I've picked up a w reg 2000 sharan tdi AVG engine code. Bought as a 'runner' (might be needing it up and running for a while before I strip it) - plan is to go ETDI on one of my vans and as a novice I thought I would learn more by removing the engine myself, especially the loom so as such I wanted a 'whole car' . 114k on clock, timing belt last changed at 107k. All gravy you might think but having charged the battery and fired it up today I discovered that there is a very strong suspicion that turbo has blown - inspection underneath reveals the exhaust unbolted at the CAT and passing oil. I am assuming that someone has undone the exhaust to either check on the ridiculous amount of smoke belching from their formerly decent motor or cracked the exhaust here to see if the turbo is passing oil. Well it is. Engine is ticking over sweet otherwise. Will get under and remove pipes to turbo and check for play/ snapped spindle. In the meantime I would like to look into picking up another - might be a specific part number for sharan (this is a very late MK1) - wheres best to get a part number? Vag Cat - show the same base number 028145702 for quite a few turbo's (AFN, AVG etc) but a raft of different suffix's. Where can I look to get cast iron info and cross match this with the VIN?
send me the vin and I'll see if ETOS will xmatch it tomorrow, don't have it on the back up laptop, the main one is away being fixed, but have it on work pc
Why not just send yours off for a rebuild?
If you can actually get to the turbo, on the compressor side will be a flattened section. It says the part number on there, as well as the garrat number, like VNT15. Which yours will be. From what I've seen, there is two different types, one that part of the exhaust manifold and one that's separate.
If you look on vagcat, it will list up to 10 different part numbers for the same turbo. I had a A4 VNT15 and passat VNT15, completely different part no's, exactly the same turbo
have removed all pipework except the oil return (?) which i think must have a 20 or 21mm nut on the engine case side , my spanners only go to 19 and then theres the small matter of a few of the manifold nuts being tucked up out the way, not sure how i will get those yet, bearing g in mind with the engine being transverse there is no way of looking let alone working down from above.
Anyway.....the turbo is FUBAR'd spindle doing a very good impression of a waltzer ride, in out , left right, up down etc etc. oil a plenty everywhere.
Cut of/remove the downpipes and deal with the manifold once the engine is outta the van?
Cheapo 21mm as part of the spanner set in Lidl's at moment (Hawkinge still had some in tonight) or get a Halfords Pro (have you got a trade card, if not let me know).
Going to try to reinstate turbo and get the car moving so can really give it a work out . Plus may need it as a back up vehicle if the passat goes south ( bent a rod ) hoping to sort that soon tho so things may change. Yes I got a trade card , have got some great deals with it do far eg Bosch batteries
ok turbo removed, after a visit from resident turbo specialist and best described as having a catastrophic melt down (the turbo) , oil through all the intercooler pathway, i have it removed for a clean, the turbo vanes have all lost chunks but only evidence of the debris thus far are tiny specs in the oil, will clean everything and then make decision as to remove intake manifold and take a peek. Not sure if turbo can be re- cored might be too far gone, will have phone around in the morning. have read loads about engines 'running on' bending rods when hydrolocking etc when the turbo goes into meltdown, oh dear.
Aidan wrote:send me the vin and I'll see if ETOS will xmatch it tomorrow, don't have it on the back up laptop, the main one is away being fixed, but have it on work pc
Just noticed the part number for turbo has an x on the end ( the actual number stamped on the turbo , and also the number you threw up from ETOS - I thought x denoted a rework? From factory ?
have cleaned out the intercooler and pipework, plenty of oil and some debris lodges in intercooler (2-3mm pieces of turbo), the temp sensor housed in the pipework was pretty saturated in rink, i cleaned it with paraffin as best i can - should i just replace or are they fairly robust?
The sensors are normally quite oily....if it works use it as it is...how did you clean the intercooler out? Water washable degreaser and hot soapy water and/or pressure wash is best way....I would advise when you fit the new turbo to start it up with the intake hose off the inlet,manifold and rev it up a bit to blow any debris and water/ oil out rather sending it into the engine....also be very sure the intake to the turbo has no junk in it.....seen many a brand new turbo ruined by UFOs in the pipes...Also! How the oil feed pipe looking? It's unlikely but the old turbo might of failed due to oil starvation, some say it must be replaced....I disagree but certainly worth checking its not blocked...if you can crank the engine over with the pump disabled and check for a steady flow of oil from the end of the pipe.
All pipe work removed and cleaned well with paraffin , then degreaser in hot water, then rinse. Intake manifold now off , what a mission! What a mess. Will clean that and the egr, and try and peek into engine to have final check for UFO's. Rebuilt exchange turbo from midland turbo's came in at same price used ones are up for grabs on eBay . Built to order ans Delivered in 48 hrs. Might be a week or two before I can put it all back together and see what we have.
Best way to clean out cat and exhaust ? Run it hot and smoke it out? Take off and stand in corner like naughty boy ?
Intake manifold now cleaned out, took a while to scrape the "pooh" out and then clean. Didn't find anything untoward lodged in the sticky stuff, Last place to look as best i can , is where the intake enters engine as pretty gunned up there and could we worth scraping out as much as i can get to. Can someone explain how the egr works? i can see its on the vacuum system but theres no sensor/electronics as such
Follow the egr vacuum pipe back, it goes to a little valve (N18) the ECU decides how much to open the EGR and the N18 does this. I got rid of mine and blacked off the ports on inlet and outlet manifold, but have left the N18 plugged in (to stop fault codes) otherwise you will get the same sh!tty mess again. I took mine off after listening to good advice on here
(might be needing it up and running for a while before I strip it) - plan is to go ETDI on one of my vans and as a novice I thought I would learn more by removing the engine myself, especially the loom so as such I wanted a 'whole car' . 114k on clock, timing belt last changed at 107k. All gravy you might think but having charged the battery and fired it up today I discovered 
