Oldiebut goodie wrote:Mine was reading high for ages - put in an 82 degree thermostat and it's been spot on ever since.
Was wondering - have you fitted the diesel thermo advertised on Brickwerks - I see they have one with a lower opening temp - not sure if its compatinle but thought I'd ask
as someone all ready said(ian i think)if it went high after you changed a few things it proberly be one of them things,ive seen stats put in upside down(vw main agents are good at that)you may have done that,tho on the ones ive seen it didnt make a difference when swaped around.Ive got a van at the moment that reads high,the chap i bought it off said it had always done it since he had owned(over 10 yrs) well thats what he told me il sort that part number out for you.adam
We should all start to live before we get too old. Fear is stupid. So are regrets.
- Marilyn Monroe
California Dreamin wrote:Piggin HT leads.......for the third time in the last 14 months I'm down onto three cylinders.
I am now making my own......so as you say, you shouldn't necessarily rely on parts operating correctly just because they are new.
Martin
I had the signal terminal drop off the startermotor on The Bus in Aldi car park last night. 3 fine young gentlemen gave us a bump start and off we went home. The joys of having an old van eh Martin
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
My Brickwerks stainless front>back pipes have come this morning so first warm weekend next spring it's coolant system swap ... front to back, the whole lot brand new and stainless
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
My temp gauge didn't register much at all for several years, then I sorted out the thermostat and cooling system in general and ended up with the needle a good 3/4 way over to the right.
I kept a suspicious eye on it for a good 18 months, but every thing performed as it should, fans cut in and out with no problems.
Eventually I had a wiper linkage problem so took out the dash and while it was out cleaned up all the contact - earth crowns, printed circuit edge connector and anything else I came across. Put everything back and now (for the last year) the needle sits just touching the right side of the warning light. Also some other issues I'd been having with the oil pressure warnings went away!
Don't know if that helps but cleaning contacts costs nothing.
My Brickwerks stainless front>back pipes have come this morning so first warm weekend next spring it's coolant system swap ... front to back, the whole lot brand new and stainless
we've just done that with sheps bus.. on an early system. bit of head scratching to link the new pipe to the hot coolant outflow but generally a doddle
comes in 4 sections ... that don't mix
took two of us a couple hours to off on.. then some time to carefully bleed by the baxter method
It'll be Brickwerk's finest front to back .. new 2.1 rad, s/s oil cooler pipes the lot No more fretting about that seeping front>back pipe I swapped the clip over on 4 years ago either
A guy's gotta have a hobby and other than me modelling work this is mine
Ian
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
MartinR wrote:My temp gauge didn't register much at all for several years, then I sorted out the thermostat and cooling system in general and ended up with the needle a good 3/4 way over to the right.
I kept a suspicious eye on it for a good 18 months, but every thing performed as it should, fans cut in and out with no problems.
Eventually I had a wiper linkage problem so took out the dash and while it was out cleaned up all the contact - earth crowns, printed circuit edge connector and anything else I came across. Put everything back and now (for the last year) the needle sits just touching the right side of the warning light. Also some other issues I'd been having with the oil pressure warnings went away!
Don't know if that helps but cleaning contacts costs nothing.
Happy Christmas all!
Martin
Out of interest - whats the best to clean electrical contacts/circuit boards? Alcohol?
Earth crowns, spade connectors, eyes bolted to metalwork etc = small brass wire brush (cheap at DIY shops, shows etc), then fine wet n dry used dry, then coat with Vaseline (or other Petroleum Jelly)
Brass looking edge connectors on PCB's = a nylon type pan scourer (gently) then Vaseline (or other Petroleum Jelly)
Wiring harness plugs and sockets = trickier, I usually clean them up with WD40 and rag (I know WD40 is an insulator but don't worry (imho)) - then fit remove fit them a few times to clean up the contact areas, then smear with Vaseline (or other Petroleum Jelly) to protect them.
Actual PCB's = no need to clean them really, you are more likely to do harm than good. However, if they look like they need attention due to moisture issues,then WD40 was made for this type of situation.
