2.0l Aircooled heating parts
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2.0l Aircooled heating parts
Hi there,
I have been look at what I need to get my heating sorted on my Aircooled van and have found I a missing a pipe that connect to the righthand exchanger to the fan housing on the engine,on the left side I have a metal pipe connecting it is this the same on the right?
Where would I get a new one from?
Next up I need the main flexie pipe that goes back to the front in the centre of the van,am I correct in thinking the I.d on this pipe is 100mm? How much do I need ?
I was thinking in using this sort of ducting because its insulated would that be all right? .http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acoustic-Flex ... 19c9c7fa97
All help appreciated thanks dazz
I have been look at what I need to get my heating sorted on my Aircooled van and have found I a missing a pipe that connect to the righthand exchanger to the fan housing on the engine,on the left side I have a metal pipe connecting it is this the same on the right?
Where would I get a new one from?
Next up I need the main flexie pipe that goes back to the front in the centre of the van,am I correct in thinking the I.d on this pipe is 100mm? How much do I need ?
I was thinking in using this sort of ducting because its insulated would that be all right? .http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acoustic-Flex ... 19c9c7fa97
All help appreciated thanks dazz
1983 ,2.0l Aircooled ,home brew hightop camper.
- Footprint
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
Which piece is missing? I don't recognise which one from your description as there's no connection from the fan housing to the exchangers like a Bay 1600 van or Beetle motor has. There's no pipe as such that connects the heater blower to the right hand exchanger, as it sits on top of the exchanger inlet and is the 'tee' piece that also feeds the left exchanger via the horizontal pipe across the back of the engine bay. Do you perhaps mean the pipe that connects the front of the exchanger, (the outlet), to the control pod?
Like these:

Or am I way off and don't have clue what you're getting at?
Like these:

Or am I way off and don't have clue what you're getting at?
1982 2.0l Aircool Devon
ZX6-R, SV1000, Katana 1100. And now Burgman 400!
ZX6-R, SV1000, Katana 1100. And now Burgman 400!
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
That's the heat riser to control pod,I m on about the connection that takes the air from the fan into the exchanger?
It is hard to explain I shall see if I can get a picture.
Cheers dazz .
It is hard to explain I shall see if I can get a picture.
Cheers dazz .
1983 ,2.0l Aircooled ,home brew hightop camper.
- bigherb
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
I think you mean 17 & 18 which are metal pipes, only available S/H.
15 & 9 are plastic, again only available S/H

15 & 9 are plastic, again only available S/H

1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
Wow bigherb where did you find that picture I have looked every where for something like that,and yes you are correct.
Thanks for posting picture much appreciated,where would the best place to find them secondhand.
Have you any info on the main ducting down the centre of the van??
Cheers dazz
Thanks for posting picture much appreciated,where would the best place to find them secondhand.
Have you any info on the main ducting down the centre of the van??
Cheers dazz
1983 ,2.0l Aircooled ,home brew hightop camper.
- sarran1955
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
Hello,
Parts 17 and 18 can be made from aluminium duct tube, The trick is make up rolled steel rings to fit inside the 18 to heat exchanger,
Beetles and bays had these, but in a smaller diameter., so that you can attach your heater hoses.
The central pipe just needs to be ok, and not split.
Take off the front grill and hot air pipe, blow through with compressed air to remove leaves, bird/mice nests from the system
Check your heater levers on the heat exchangers are really moving all the way open..
If the wires are bust then you can wire them open and wind down the windows when it is too hot!!
Use gaffer tape to make air tight..
Put the blanking plates back in the 'A' posts,so that the heat does not pass down the doors,,,
Consider blanking off the rear blowing vent at the back of the walkthrough.
My Aircooled goes ski ing,, and is toasty to about minus 10..
Cordialement,
Parts 17 and 18 can be made from aluminium duct tube, The trick is make up rolled steel rings to fit inside the 18 to heat exchanger,
Beetles and bays had these, but in a smaller diameter., so that you can attach your heater hoses.
The central pipe just needs to be ok, and not split.
Take off the front grill and hot air pipe, blow through with compressed air to remove leaves, bird/mice nests from the system
Check your heater levers on the heat exchangers are really moving all the way open..
If the wires are bust then you can wire them open and wind down the windows when it is too hot!!
Use gaffer tape to make air tight..
Put the blanking plates back in the 'A' posts,so that the heat does not pass down the doors,,,
Consider blanking off the rear blowing vent at the back of the walkthrough.
My Aircooled goes ski ing,, and is toasty to about minus 10..
Cordialement,

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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
My middle pipe is non existent so need a new one.what is the internal diameter of it is it 100mm and would 10 metre do the whole van?
1983 ,2.0l Aircooled ,home brew hightop camper.
- bigherb
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
I think it uses two sizes, 100mm to the rear heater outlet above the petrol tank an then 75mm to the dash board you only need 1.5 mtr of each. Best to measure the stubs under the van.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
- neil3965
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
The o.d. of the collector tube that the duct fits on to (part 21) is 93mm; the pipe clip (15a) for fixing it is specified in vagcat as 80-100mm. Length required should be around 1500mm (2m will be more than enough).

For anyone trying to improve the heating in their Aircooled T25, it's worth checking the condition of the main duct - I disconnected mine today, looked inside and found this -

The lining had collapsed! Cleared out the crumbly cardboardy crap and, hey presto! The heater actually works! (Think I'll replace the ducting, though.)
I also disconnected and wired shut the flap valve that directs hot air to the rear compartment, between the front seats. There's a metal rod that connects to the control cable above the spare wheel - pull it all the way forward to close the flap.
The control cable is the forward of the two that attach to the top lever on the heater control panel.

For anyone trying to improve the heating in their Aircooled T25, it's worth checking the condition of the main duct - I disconnected mine today, looked inside and found this -

The lining had collapsed! Cleared out the crumbly cardboardy crap and, hey presto! The heater actually works! (Think I'll replace the ducting, though.)
I also disconnected and wired shut the flap valve that directs hot air to the rear compartment, between the front seats. There's a metal rod that connects to the control cable above the spare wheel - pull it all the way forward to close the flap.
The control cable is the forward of the two that attach to the top lever on the heater control panel.
Cheers, Neil
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1982 Volkswagen T25 (Devon Camper)
Engine: 2.0L A/C petrol (CU)
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1982 Volkswagen T25 (Devon Camper)
Engine: 2.0L A/C petrol (CU)
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
neil3965 wrote:The o.d. of the collector tube that the duct fits on to (part 21) is 93mm; the pipe clip (15a) for fixing it is specified in vagcat as 80-100mm. Length required should be around 1500mm (2m will be more than enough).
For anyone trying to improve the heating in their Aircooled T25, it's worth checking the condition of the main duct - I disconnected mine today, looked inside and found this -
The lining had collapsed! Cleared out the crumbly cardboardy crap and, hey presto! The heater actually works! (Think I'll replace the ducting, though.)
I also disconnected and wired shut the flap valve that directs hot air to the rear compartment, between the front seats. There's a metal rod that connects to the control cable above the spare wheel - pull it all the way forward to close the flap.
The control cable is the forward of the two that attach to the top lever on the heater control panel.
Thanks for the info and the great picture ,I had looked high and low for pictures like that
Anyway I have got pipe 24 still connected but would like to change that to the insulated ducting and pipe 22 I shall get a length of 100mm insulated ducting to to help with the heat loss,I was also looking to place a bilge fan in up the front to help get the hot air to the window screen .
Would the flexi tube number 6 be that same as a bay window camper because I can find new ones for the bay but not the t3?
Thanks again for all the help dazz
Last edited by nutbox on 14 Dec 2012, 21:34, edited 1 time in total.
1983 ,2.0l Aircooled ,home brew hightop camper.
- neil3965
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Re: 2.0l Aircooled heating parts
You can find the parts diagrams here:
http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/T2/1982/4/
though you need to register to see them.
Before you shell out for a blower, see what the heater works like without it - if the parts are all there, and all properly connected without leaks or blockages, the amount of hot air that comes out is huge. You may well decide you don't need it. (I should know - I bought one before discovering the blockage... doh!)
Not sure about the flexi tube. I reckon any heat-resistant ducting of the correct diameter would do, eg the stuff sold for use with Eberspacher heaters - yacht chandlery websites sell it, or there's stuff here on fleabay:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heater-Parts-D ... 2072016012
http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/T2/1982/4/
though you need to register to see them.
Before you shell out for a blower, see what the heater works like without it - if the parts are all there, and all properly connected without leaks or blockages, the amount of hot air that comes out is huge. You may well decide you don't need it. (I should know - I bought one before discovering the blockage... doh!)
Not sure about the flexi tube. I reckon any heat-resistant ducting of the correct diameter would do, eg the stuff sold for use with Eberspacher heaters - yacht chandlery websites sell it, or there's stuff here on fleabay:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heater-Parts-D ... 2072016012
Cheers, Neil
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1982 Volkswagen T25 (Devon Camper)
Engine: 2.0L A/C petrol (CU)
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1982 Volkswagen T25 (Devon Camper)
Engine: 2.0L A/C petrol (CU)