Engine problems...

[rustbucket]

I have a 1981 1.9 Petrol T25, and recently the engine has died on me. Engine problems are quite new to me, so I'm not really sure where to start troubleshooting.

Here's what happened:

Earlier in the day the engine started fine, although I had notice that it was starting stranger than normal. Rather than it turning over for a second or two, then starting, it seemed to be not ticking over as the key was turned fully, then would start in a sudden jump. Maybe it was like this before for a few days without me noticing it as much, but it was definitely worse on this day.

Anyway, it started fine, I drove round the corner and stopped the engine for 10 or 15 minutes. Then it wouldn't start at all. I hadn't left anything on, so that was strange. After a jump-start it drove fine, then it was off for about 3 or 4 hours before I started it again, and it started, but again it was quite sudden. As I was driving home, after about 2 minutes the CD player started flickering on and off, then it died. The lights slowly dimmed until they were barely on, then the engine died (in that order). It then wouldn't tick over or do anything.

Today I tried jump starting, but it's ticking over VERY slightly, maybe one or two tiny noises, but nothing really. I'm charging the battery up now, so will see later.

Previous to this I've been having trouble with the battery dying extremely quickly, and if left for 3 or 4 days it would almost always not start. The battery I got is smaller than my last, I only bought it 3 months ago, but it's an 063 and I was promised this was big enough, but I'm not sure. I've had 2 batterys go crap on me in a year.

I'm confused, because the engine still seemed to be running as the electrics died, then the engine stopped quickly afterwards.

As I've said this is very new to me, I have a haynes manual but I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting. What tests are there I can do to deduce where the problem exists. Sorry if this is a stupid question. Be gentle haha.

Thank you

[colinthefox]

The electrical problems you describe have all the characteristics of a worn-out regulator brush pack on the alternator. The good news is that this is a ten minute job you can do yourself for around a tenner without removing the alternator. They ALL fail sooner or later, and there are many threads on here about it.

Symptoms are dying electrics mostly without the ignition light coming on, and interference on the radio at high revs. Usually fails on a rainy winter night miles from anywhere because you're using wipers, fan and headlights.

Please EVERYONE if you haven't done it yet, change your regulator NOW whether it needs it or not, and keep the old one as a spare.

[ghost123uk]

From a recent thread re voltage regulators at = https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=110875 where there are links to cheap ones on ebay

Pretty sure I got my last set from euro car parts.

OK, I ordered THIS (14 volt) one (with free delivery) from Euro Car Parts on-line =

Topran Voltage Regulator
Volkswagen Transporter 1.9 1989
Part No.: 414770050
Qty: 1 | Amount: £20.34 incl delivery

Figured Euro Car parts quality is good (always has been for me in the past) and for the extra £8 worth it for peace of mind

Cheers for the "heads up" Bob

Could be a duff connection on the back of the alternator too though
DISCONNECT the +ve off the battery before touching wires on the back of the alternator !! (not for electric shock reasons by the way, for short circuit and the associated fire risk reasons )

[rustbucket]

Thank you so much guys, saved me hours of searching and frustration. Just out of curiosity, how can I start learning these things without them happening to me. I really want to learn how an engine works and goes together so I can do these things myself or maybe eventually build an engine. Any books you recommend?

Thanks again.

[ghost123uk]

Thank you so much guys, saved me hours of searching and frustration. Just out of curiosity, how can I start learning these things without them happening to me. I really want to learn how an engine works and goes together so I can do these things myself or maybe eventually build an engine. Any books you recommend?

I know of any books that you can learn it from. Experience and a real life "mentor" is the way.

Having a T25, an interest in such matters, plus folk on here and you are already onto a good start.

Although the Haynes has it's faults, reading it thoroughly and studying the bits you are reading about on your van is good practice for when things do go wrong. (Ignore the "strip your gearbox" section though )

[rustbucket]

Excellent, the van started this morning without changing anything. Also realised that the high-pitched squeeling I've heard on start up is just the drive belt loose... I'm slowly learning

I'm going to order the new regulator brush pack, I can't find anywhere the size limit for the brushes, but the alternator is clearly still working fine, so it must be that.

Finally, is 14 volts what I need? There are no model stickers on either my alternator or brush pack so I'm not sure.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volks ... dc4&000406" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Think I'll order this one above

Thanks

[ghost123uk]

Yes that is the one, but if it was just your fan belt squeaking because it was loose, and you have now tensioned it correctly, you have probably fixed your problem so no real need for the regulator / brush pack.

Next (simple) lesson re alternators / charging, but = do you own one of those little digital multimeters ?

[slowcoach]

My brush pack went bad last year , it was pumping out over 16 volts and making the battery bubble on a drive through devon. Made quite a pong !

Luckily it didn't damage anything and the battery is fine. You shoulda seen the speed of the wind screen wipers. . .

[horizontal kipper]

I take it your's is Aircooled ? a few books for you if you want to rebuild your own motor.

How to rebuild your Volkswagen Aircooled engine by Tom wilson.

How to keep your volkswagen alive by John Muir. (this is the Aircooled bible and a great read)

Bug me Type IV engine compleate strip down and rebuild by Jake raby. DVD

Haynes and Bentley workshop manuals.

[ghost123uk]

@ Mr H Kipper -

I have a 1981 1.9 Petrol T25,

This will be a water cooled one




Hi "rustbucket" - just a bit more info for you on your learning curve =

When you say "it seemed to be not ticking over as the key was turned fully," and "Today I tried jump starting, but it's ticking over VERY slightly"

Note that the expression "ticking over" refers to when an engine has been started and is running, but not being revved up at all with the accelerator. The expression that is more appropriate for what you are saying above is "turning over".

Hope you don't mind me pointing that out, but it's good to have the correct terminology when explaining a problem, on here, or more importantly, at a repair garage

[horizontal kipper]

@ Mr H Kipper -

I have a 1981 1.9 Petrol T25,

This will be a water cooled one

i should have read the 1.9 petrol bit, i forgot wedges got worst from late 81

[California Dreamin]

That one is 14.5volts...seems to be the normal nowadays in order to properly charge newer sealed battery types (Calcium/Silver) that require a slightly higher voltage.
The Original Beru regulator was set between 13.9/14.2volts which was ideal for older lead/acid batteries (the ones with removable tops that required distilled water)

Definately pop your engine lid and check the alternator belt tension and condition....change the regulator brush pack if the voltage at the starter battery is less than 13.9volts when the engine is running.

Note* this regulator pack is for alternators with a 32mm slip ring (not 28mm)

This one looks correct but check your label against the numbers for compatibility.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALL-VW-MARK-2 ... 7430678%26" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Martin